Ford Racing B and C spring - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 19 Old 01-25-2006, 09:53 PM Thread Starter
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Ford Racing B and C spring

What is the difference between the 'B' and 'C' spring ?? i know C have 650spring rate and B 450-500 . but what is the difference in the effect of each one , drivability , ..


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post #2 of 19 Old 01-25-2006, 10:02 PM
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The C's are a much stiffer in my experience but the 2 cars had different shocks/struts so that may have affected the feel. Flatter cornering & harsh ride with stiffer springs ie: it takes more downward force to compress the C relative to the B. Crude explanation but it's my .02

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post #3 of 19 Old 01-26-2006, 07:24 AM
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The B springs drive pretty much like stock, they just make the car sit lower. A poor choice for handling improvement. No personal expereince but word is the C springs drop the car too low and screw up the front RCH.
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post #4 of 19 Old 01-26-2006, 08:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn
The B springs drive pretty much like stock, they just make the car sit lower. A poor choice for handling improvement. No personal expereince but word is the C springs drop the car too low and screw up the front RCH.

That and with the C's you"ll get a specific rate front spring and a progressive rate rear spring. If you really want to improve handling, not just looks, research H&R springs.
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post #5 of 19 Old 01-26-2006, 11:12 AM
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I'll what I can here.

I ordered the "Mustang handling package" for my GT after finding it to be in my budget, and my level of useage. It's basically a BULLIT or MACH1 suspension(((2 shocks, 2 struts(all Tockico), 4 springs(600fr/250rr), 2 swaybars(lighter/hollow)for 440 shipped))).

I tried using a set of C-springs with this kit, but it did put the front a lil' lower than I expected. When I replaced the springs this time, I used the springs in the "kit" but I did not use any of the rubber isolators. I found this to be right about where I wanted it. I can almost get my fist inbetween the tire and the fender well.

As for the Handling compared to my old setup(Eibach ProKits with stock everything else that was replaced), the car feels GREAT! It does ride a lil' more rough, but I really hope it picks up 1/2 a second or maybe a lil more this season for autox. The car feels very solid, and very predictable in the corners now.

I do feel that the front could stand to be just SLIGHTLY lower in the front, and I have sale pending on some Steeda X2 balljoints at the moment. If I do not use the provided spring spacer with them, it should give me a "pinky finger's width" drop in the front I need.

I purchased the parts from www.stangstore.com if you want to take a look. Was surprisingly shocked as I ordered the parts at 3pm on a Friday, and my junk arrived by 5pm Monday. Just regular shipping, nothing special. All parts arrived perfect.

Good luck in your choice. I personally don't like "SLAMMED MUSTANGS" so my opinions may be biased.
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post #6 of 19 Old 01-26-2006, 11:46 AM
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i run the C springs and the front was to low, the a arms were past parallel and cause ing bump steer issues along with RCH issues. i put poly spring isolaters in there and it brought the car up a 1/2 inch. now all is well, i feel as tho they handle and ride just as well as th H&R's they replaced.

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"And the dynos rumbled, and God spoke 'Take thine five liter v8, install it upon thine car, and pwn the many ricers!' And thus Mustang, son-of-Ford, began to dominate the world 4 cylinder powered imports. And God looked down upon it and saw it was all that and a bag of chips
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post #7 of 19 Old 01-26-2006, 12:28 PM
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Love my C's, wife HATES them. They are VERY stiff springs. I can't imagine a stiffer spring used on a street car. They are TERRIBLE for drag racing but on curvy country roads they rock, IMHO. Bump steer is an issue. They dropped my front, without spring pads, to dead level with the front tire/fender lip. I love the look they give- lowered, but not ricer low.

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post #8 of 19 Old 01-26-2006, 12:46 PM
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What struts and springs did you use with the C's? Most ride-quality complaints about C springs can actually be attributed to the dampers, not the springs.

I had B's and I liked them at the time but they are boulevard cruiser springs, not really an increase in handling capability.
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post #9 of 19 Old 01-26-2006, 01:39 PM
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Good point MFE. I had stock struts/springs. They were right around 75000 miles at the time. Also used in conjunction with MM C/C plates.

Reef blue 93 hatch, 5 speed, 65mm t/b, GT40 h/i, Crane 2030, 1.7s, LTH, pulleys, o/r h, 31 spline diff w/4.10, Mosers [email protected] (1.64 short)
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post #10 of 19 Old 01-26-2006, 07:20 PM Thread Starter
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my plan is to install the spring whit the stock shock and strut for this year , i was not supposed to change my spring this year cause i change all my motor so money is more rare .Next summer i will buy tokico shock and strut , tower brace and g-load brace , steeda adjustable rear sway bar .

i have already installed the energy suspension master kit so i have the insulator installed . My plan is not to lower the car more than 1in but have a firm suspension for my lapping session 1 or 2 time a year .


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post #11 of 19 Old 01-27-2006, 09:31 AM
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Stock is like 430-550# fronts.

There must be a dozen aftermarket companies (Eibach, Steeda, Saleen, H&R.....) that seel a street spring that is 10% stiffer 450-580.
I had the Eibach ones on my car, and that is how it should come fom the factory for a daily driver.

Later (more track time) I went with the BBK linear 600# springs. These were a bit much for the street, but I also went to R-compound tires for the street too (BIG difference in roadnoise).

YOU need to make the choice from here.

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post #12 of 19 Old 01-27-2006, 10:43 AM
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I don't think C's sit too low.. here's my car with FMS C springs and urethane isolators/insulators..


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Windsor JR's, XE264HR-14, Cobra intake, BBK long tubes, frame connectors, 4.10's, 03 Cobra brakes and wheels, FMS B springs
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post #13 of 19 Old 01-27-2006, 11:13 AM
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Maybe the Fox bodies up front are a lil' lighter than the 94> Mustangs causing not as much drop? :why:

I think your car look great.......real clean!
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post #14 of 19 Old 01-27-2006, 09:07 PM
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If you look up the part #s at summit racing, they say there that 94+ cars are lowered more than foxes. I think my C springs were the best $140 I have ever put into my ride. Its not too low. I hate it when you go to the auto show and see cool concept cars, but when they get put into production, they sit 2" higher than the concept. I saw a '00 GT yesterday with the front sitting sky high because it was bone stock and I just laugh. How can you drive a mustang that looks that goofy?

Everybody has their own opinion. Any lowering spring will look better than the stock. Not to mention that one of my springs were broken, and my buddy's '92 LX had 3 of the 4 springs broken due to age and bad design. The C springs give my car that "concept car" look. Most people don't even notice that its lowered until you park it next to a stock mustang. The ride aint that bad either. As far as bumpsteer, I used the rack offset bushings from energy suspension and reset my alignment and the bumpsteer is barely noticeable. I bet if you didnt know what bumpsteer was and what it feels like, I bet you wouldn't even notice it when you drove my car.

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post #15 of 19 Old 01-29-2006, 05:22 PM Thread Starter
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what is the difference between standard spring rate and progressive spring rate like the Pro-kit ??

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post #16 of 19 Old 01-29-2006, 06:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LeKiD302
what is the difference between standard spring rate and progressive spring rate like the Pro-kit ??
Standard rate in front is 425-530, Prokit is 460-570, so the Prokit is only slightly stiffer. Stangely, in the rear, stock is 200-300 and Prokit is 200-250 so the rear is slightly softer than stock. I would be the Prokit exaggerates the built in understeer during hard cornering.
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post #17 of 19 Old 01-29-2006, 08:32 PM Thread Starter
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why everyone said the C spring lower the car too much . They advertise a .75 rear and 1.2 front .. not to much for me .

i m not worry about the stiffer ride . i already have all eurethane bushing all the way around and it wayy much stiffer than stock rubber bushing .


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post #18 of 19 Old 02-02-2006, 01:28 PM
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Because the lowering screws up the suspension geometry.

All bleeding stops eventually.
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post #19 of 19 Old 02-02-2006, 01:35 PM
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Get something 10% stiffer than stock, like Eibach 450-580# (which is the specific brand that I once used).
A 1" lowering in the front is accpetable, as is 1" in the rear. Any more, and yes, you do have suspension geometry that wasnt designed for it.

It CAN be lowered successfully, but there is more to it than just springs. I lowered mine about 2" overall front/rear:

Darius Rudis

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