Wanting to upgrade suspension for spirited driver - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 13 Old 01-20-2006, 12:43 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oxnard, CA
Posts: 46
Wanting to upgrade suspension for spirited driver

I have a basically stock 94 Cobra with 55K that I just bought. I want to setup the suspension for nice handling without going overboard. I am not going to ever road race, but I do like to take my cars out for a nice drive on a curvy road. That said I am looking for a good suspension upgrade. My car will see mainly street time and I like a good stiff suspension. I will also be upgrading brakes and wheels and tires. So I will list what I want and maybe you guys can recommend some products.

Suspension: Eibach Sportline plus system(springs, shocks, and swaybars)
How much does this drop the car and could I run 18's without rubbing. I want to run 10.5in rear rims

Brakes: Recommend new rotors and pads. I am looking for cross drilled and slotted rotors. Hawk pads seem to be good. Are braided steel brake lines worth the upgrade?

Wheels and Tires: If I go 17 I will do 17X8 255/45 up front and 17X10.5 with 315/35 drag radials in the rear.
Please comment and let me know if you have any input. Thanks, John

Jonni Nitro is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 Old 01-20-2006, 01:36 AM
Registered User
 
Oktavius's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Pensacola, FL
Posts: 5,911
For the suspension stuff, coil-overs will give you the best ride quality while increasing wheel rates. Plus coil-overs have more adjustability and slightly lighter weight. Shocks and struts are very important, more important that springs. Bilsteins offer good ride quailty with improved performance. They would be a nice match with coil-overs. Good caster/camber plates will definitely help out the handling by positively locating the top of the strut and allowing you to run better alignment settings.

Brakes, why do you want cross drilled and slotted rotors? For looks? They really aren't worth it. They reduce thermal mass. Just get some good solid Brembo rotors. The braided lines are definitely worth it as they will improve the pedal feel.

www.maximummotorsports.com


Tim ||||||| ||||||| |||||||
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.

07 Subie Impreza - DD
92 GT SSP
XBL: Zexterr

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
Oktavius is offline  
post #3 of 13 Old 01-20-2006, 09:19 AM
Registered User
 
blacksnake305's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: USA
Posts: 1,685
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oktavius
For the suspension stuff, coil-overs will give you the best ride quality while increasing wheel rates. Plus coil-overs have more adjustability and slightly lighter weight. Shocks and struts are very important, more important that springs. Bilsteins offer good ride quailty with improved performance. They would be a nice match with coil-overs. Good caster/camber plates will definitely help out the handling by positively locating the top of the strut and allowing you to run better alignment settings.

Brakes, why do you want cross drilled and slotted rotors? For looks? They really aren't worth it. They reduce thermal mass. Just get some good solid Brembo rotors. The braided lines are definitely worth it as they will improve the pedal feel.

www.maximummotorsports.com
IMHO, for a street-only application, stainless steel brake lines are a waste of money. If you eventually change your mind and plan some OT / AutoX activities, then by all means...
The sportline package is a nice upgrade for a street only car. You will see about a 1.2" drop...

Again, for a street only car, your cobra brakes are more than adequate. But upgrading to Hawk HP would be a good choice and you'll notice the difference.

Good luck!

H/C/KB 01 Cobra
To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
blacksnake305 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 13 Old 01-20-2006, 06:54 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Moline, Il
Posts: 428
Your Cobra has the best swaybar set of any sn95 mustang. Keep them. Urethane front swaybar bushings will make the bar more responsive.

If you don't plan to ever autocross or open track the best, factory match combo is the Bullet/Mach 1 springs/struts/shocks. Near stock ride, better handling, not too low.

No need to change brakes other than good street pads and an flush with good fluid. Cobra brakes can handle more than you would ever throw at them on the street. Cross drilled rotors have no performance advantage of standard rotors, except their bLinG factor.

Two parts you didn't mention but I will recommend are Camber/Caster plates and a Panhard bar. The CC plates will allow you to add a lot of caster (caster is good and more important on the street) and will hold your alignment true while cornering. A panhard bar will lateratly locate your rear axle, reducing lateral deflection from +/- 1" to a tiny fraction of an inch. With your planned wide rear tires, you will need your rear end to stay put so you don't rub or cut a tire.

Maximum Motorsports has great products, great customer and tech support and many satisfied customers.

John Flesher
RollCamberCoef is offline  
post #5 of 13 Old 01-20-2006, 09:50 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Stevenson Ranch, CA.
Posts: 90
Call MM and tell them what you want from your car. They won't steer you wrong. But it looks like you need good spring/shock combo, lower rear control arms (keep stock uppers), CC plates front sway bar bushings and good full length sub frame conectors. Drilled rotors only make you look like a wantabe. If you want some braided lines, I have the two front lines, brand new, for a reasonable price. PM me if your interested.

KDS
94 Cobra #3265, with a "pretty set of brakes"
hwyrngr is offline  
post #6 of 13 Old 01-20-2006, 10:00 PM
WJL
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Utah
Posts: 258
What the above said.
Give MM a call. They will explain and set you up for what YOU can afford and need at this point and time.
SS brake lines never hurt and are and easy upgrade.
Wheels/Tires search the net. Tirerack.com is a good place to start.
I would not use drag radials for Autocross/ Road race not stiff enough side wall. Was discussed on here a while back.

Good Luck

Last edited by WJL; 01-20-2006 at 10:03 PM.
WJL is offline  
post #7 of 13 Old 01-20-2006, 11:22 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: San Marcos, CA, USA
Posts: 261
Jonni - Dont just call MM. MM is great if you want to upgrade. But depending on what you want, there are other suppliers. So look around. A swaybar is good, but technically, you want to first upgrade your shocks/struts/springs before you upgrade or change the swaybar. You want to intall sub-frame connectors first also. And you will want to upgrade any bushings to urethane or better.... A few suppliers offer all this. For your car, you have about 4 to 6 great suppliers..... and a number of their dealers/distributors.
I highly recommend checking several of the forums and doing more research. It too me 2 to 5 years to get a clear picture/responses on my upgrades.... so first, decide what you really really want to do.....
For example, if you just want to decrease sway, get the Steeda race-antisway bar, which will decrease your sway, but has a negative overall affect on conerning performance, possibly..... depending on your other upgrades....
andy

#99 NASA AI West
1999 Mustang Cobra, Black Coupe

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
v8cobra99 is offline  
post #8 of 13 Old 01-21-2006, 02:49 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oxnard, CA
Posts: 46
Wow thanks for the info guys. I would like to go coilovers, but they are a little pricey are I feel maybe overkill for the car. I have checked out MM and they do have awesome products. I will be taking all the things said into consideration. I guess if I did get drilled rotors it would be for looks, but the pads are a definite upgrade.
Jonni Nitro is offline  
post #9 of 13 Old 01-21-2006, 09:13 AM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 110
If you go with the Hawk pads, get the HPS pads. The HP+ pads will chew up rotors when used on the street which would suck if you're spending a couple of hundred on drilled rotors.
Parsons is offline  
post #10 of 13 Old 01-21-2006, 09:54 AM
Registered User
 
jfranci3's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Chicago - Bucktown
Posts: 5,617
Like everyone said, call MM and tell them what you want. I also recommend changing the steering rack and swaybar bushings. Additionally, make sure you put subframe connectors on the car, also consider the lower k-member brace and Evolution MS V-brace (these are both cheap and make a noticable difference) .


e90 328i
jfranci3 is offline  
post #11 of 13 Old 01-22-2006, 10:33 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Oxnard, CA
Posts: 46
What are the offset steering rack bushing for exactly? Would I need these or just the standard ones. I thought about picking up a full poly bushing kit and just replace them as I go along.
Jonni Nitro is offline  
post #12 of 13 Old 01-23-2006, 08:46 AM
Registered User
 
huesmann's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (6)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: DC burbs, MD side
Posts: 6,894
Offset rack bushings are for if you've lowered your car, to also relocate the rack to minimize bumpsteer.
huesmann is offline  
post #13 of 13 Old 01-23-2006, 10:21 AM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 110
Actually, MM recommends offset bushings only in cars with after-market k-members. With a stock k-member, they say to just use the center drilled bushings no matter what the ride height. The center drilled bushings relocate the steering rack too but only in closer to the k-member.
Parsons is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome