Have $1500, what should I buy - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 39 Old 12-27-2005, 06:04 AM Thread Starter
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Have $1500, what should I buy

I already have an s-trim on order, so I figure it needs better handling right now before it needs more hp. I road-race 3-4 times per yr, and would like to auto-x a couple times a year.

I was looking at either the stage 2 & 3 Steeda, or a combination of a couple MM kits?

Right now I have Steeda Sport springs, weld-in almost full length steel sfc's, & Tokico Illumina drags up front.

I keep going back & forth with how extreme to go with the susp, and I definitely dont want to lose too much driveability. Will the Steeda Sports work ok with my intentions?


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post #2 of 39 Old 12-27-2005, 07:53 AM
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With a blower going on, it seems you'll be looking for some rear wheel grip. An MM panhard bar and torque arm will really help with that.

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post #3 of 39 Old 12-27-2005, 08:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtkz13
I already have an s-trim on order, so I figure it needs better handling right now before it needs more hp. I road-race 3-4 times per yr, and would like to auto-x a couple times a year.

I was looking at either the stage 2 & 3 Steeda, or a combination of a couple MM kits?

Right now I have Steeda Sport springs, weld-in almost full length steel sfc's, & Tokico Illumina drags up front.

I keep going back & forth with how extreme to go with the susp, and I definitely dont want to lose too much driveability. Will the Steeda Sports work ok with my intentions?

Really, Road Race or Open Track? With drag struts? Decide on a goal first, before you throw away more money.
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post #4 of 39 Old 12-27-2005, 12:34 PM
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Tires /wheels first if you havent yet.

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post #5 of 39 Old 12-27-2005, 01:13 PM
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If you are interested I have a Maximum Motorsports Adjustable/Rollerized rear Anti-Sway Bar for $275 shipped

And AFS Chrome 03 Cobra wheels 17x9 fronts & 17x10.5 rears
Yokohama ES100 275-40-17 front Goodyear GS-D3 Eagle F1 315-35-17 rear $1000

I see your in Mi I am in Valpo just south of you. you could save on shipping and pick these up too.

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post #6 of 39 Old 12-27-2005, 02:32 PM
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Brakes.

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post #7 of 39 Old 12-27-2005, 09:16 PM
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I second that...

FWIW....You have about the amount it would take for a nice brake package. Good brakes can save a ton of heartache, and save a ton of cash in the long run ( or short stop, if you will ).

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post #8 of 39 Old 12-27-2005, 09:35 PM
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To elaborate on my earlier post. ASSuming you have to stock GT wheels, this will limit you to the Cobra/PBR calipers. Those are great brakes for the money, that will leave you with cash left over to also install Cobra brakes on the rear. Search around you can find some great deals on the front kit for under $400. With the stock brakes you're lucky to make it around the track two maybe three laps before they're cooked.

One last thing about S/C's and open track events. Don't forget up grade your cooling system, i.e. Fluidyne or Griffin radiator, mabe an oil cooler and a good ignition system, Crane or MSD. I did all that plus bigger fuel system and still ended up ditching the S/C.

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post #9 of 39 Old 12-28-2005, 02:12 AM Thread Starter
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I have a Fluidyne in it, and will prob do a water pump this spring also to prevent any hot stuff.

I plan on just replacing all the stock brake stuff with new oem calipers, but with better pads/lines. I still like to drag race so I cant justify the added cost and weight gain of 17" drag racing wheels.

I have 17" TTII's with 315 Nitto's out back & 275's up front, so I think I have enough grip as far as tires go, because I can def tell they are not holding me back, my bodyroll and understeer is.

My goal you ask? Mid 12's at the track, and a much more balanced susp when at the road course. I am taking care of the 1/4 number by getting stickier tires and throwing on a blower. I'm not aswell versed in the area of suspension upgrades that will significantly make my track times faster while also being streetable.

And I feel that the car needs more lateral grip, and less bodyroll & pitch under braking. This is where i think better lap times will come from.

And I plan on ditching the drag shocks for standard adjustable shocks.

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post #10 of 39 Old 12-28-2005, 01:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtkz13
I plan on just replacing all the stock brake stuff with new oem calipers, but with better pads/lines. I still like to drag race so I cant justify the added cost and weight gain of 17" drag racing wheels.
Hope they have a lot of run off space at the tracks you run at.


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post #11 of 39 Old 12-28-2005, 03:33 PM Thread Starter
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They do, and I've never really had a problem with the brakes. I'm not going to competitive track days, just test & tune and rentals so I dont really try to get EVERY tenth out of it at the road course. On the street I think I will much more appreciate less bodyroll and better balance more than a pretty set of brakes. I've read a couple times, and personally experienced a regular emergency stop in my dad's 03 cobra and my stepdad's 02 saleen. Neither felt like they stopped any faster than when I had my pads/rotors in tip top shape. Now I'm sure if I did repeated emergency stops theirs would pretty quickly out-do mine. I actuually did a side by side test with my dad, and a couple times I actually stopped before him, and a couple times we were even. I know its due to my car being ~ 600lbs lighter and having sticky tires, but that still says something about the stock GT brakes.

I do plan on getting all new OE sized calipers, putting on SS lines, and doing a good flush. I just cant afford to get new drag racing wheels in addition to brakes and suspension.

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post #12 of 39 Old 12-28-2005, 05:58 PM
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I understand. Just remember that with the extra power, not to mention extra wieght, you will see higher straightaway speeds. Now you gotta haul that down for a turn. After a few laps you could run out of brake. And, as you skill level rises you will start to go faster and need more from you brakes. One more thing about performance pads. They operate at higher temps, that extra bit of mass in the rotors is going to dissapate that heat better. You can find the Cobra front brakes for under $400, that would leave you with money to get new front drag wheels, plus you could sell your old set and make some money back.

All that aside, call Maximum Motorsports, tell them what you want out of the car and what your budget is. They won't rip you off or steer you wrong

KDS
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post #13 of 39 Old 12-28-2005, 08:36 PM
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"Pretty brakes"

Dude....brakes will save your life, your passengers lives, whether on street or track. Everybody gets in over their head once in a while, and if you do the mods you are talking about, the speeds are going to be occasionally high. We all know things happen outta the blue, and your brakes are gonna make the difference between a close call, and OMFG. Just my humble opinion. Good luck to ya -

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post #14 of 39 Old 12-28-2005, 10:32 PM
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Brakes brakes brakes, and then get brakes. With any money left over pick up a MM panhard bar and torque arm. Seriously, at least upgrade to a set of used cobra calipers and rotors. Your TTII's will clear them just fine. Call MM, I think you'll be pleased with their suspension advise for a dual purpose car as well as an all out track car.

I love it when you guys show up at a track event with a new S/C, drag radials, and stock brakes..... as an instructor I get real nervous riding along.

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post #15 of 39 Old 01-04-2006, 10:54 PM Thread Starter
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I'd at least like to see how much the SC really pushes the stock brakes until I upgrade. I would probably do the 2 piston PBR's before the Cobra's because I also drag race and use the stock 16's.

And I've heard you have to grind on the Cobra when using TTII's, as mine are 9.5"' wide up front.

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post #16 of 39 Old 01-05-2006, 01:55 PM
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BRAKES,BRAKES,BRAKES

BRAKES BRAKES

What TOYS said and some 5 pt harnesses and a good helmet. So when your stock breaks fade or fail you live to tell all of the above " I should have invested in breaks"
Also good auto insurance.



You can never have too much brakes when RR/Autocrossing.
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post #17 of 39 Old 01-05-2006, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJL
BRAKES BRAKES

What TOYS said and some 5 pt harnesses and a good helmet. So when your stock breaks fade or fail you live to tell all of the above " I should have invested in breaks"
Also good auto insurance.



You can never have too much brakes when RR/Autocrossing.
Be weary of those suggesting 4-6 point harnesses for Open Track events in a car without at least a roll bar. If you're stuck in your seat and your roof crushes, where can you go? The stock belt allows you to slide out of harm's way, racing harnesses don't.

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post #18 of 39 Old 01-05-2006, 04:36 PM
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I would not hope that the result would not be a roll over.

Ok 4 piont Autopower bar never hurts for safety or car stiffness for RR/AC or drag strip use.

Have we helped enough??

Modifications never end.
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post #19 of 39 Old 01-05-2006, 11:33 PM
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Did we mention brakes yet? Don't be a mule.
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post #20 of 39 Old 01-06-2006, 11:36 AM
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You should buy all this cool stuff!!!

[edit] Or maybe he can find your blatant for-sale post where all but one of the rest of yours can be found, by himself.

Matt

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post #21 of 39 Old 01-08-2006, 01:59 AM
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I'd say brakes too.. I still have stock suspension, and I know the Mustang's weakest link are brakes.

I plan on upgrading my brakes before I replace my empty front struts.. LOL

90 GT - Medium Titanium/Silver
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post #22 of 39 Old 01-08-2006, 03:44 PM
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On second thought, forget what we all said. Get that 15lb pulley on the Vortech, that's the key to better lap times. The added weight of the brakes would only slow you down in the straights, not to mention the added un-sprung weight which we all know does nothing from handling.

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post #23 of 39 Old 01-16-2006, 10:40 AM Thread Starter
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Okay, so how about some 2 piston PBR from the 99+ instead of the cobra's? I couldd still use my stock 16's for the track, and they should at least help at the road course a little right?

Is there any 12" kits out there so I can use my stock 16's?

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post #24 of 39 Old 01-16-2006, 12:51 PM
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Baer makes a 12" kit that uses the PBR/Cobra caliper. It's not as cheap as the 13" kits though.

KDS
94 Cobra #3265, with a "pretty set of brakes"
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post #25 of 39 Old 01-19-2006, 08:58 PM
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I've heard the 13" cobra brakes are actually about the same weight as the GT's.
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post #26 of 39 Old 01-23-2006, 02:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtkz13
I already have an s-trim on order,
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtkz13
I plan on just replacing all the stock brake stuff with new oem calipers, but with better pads/lines. I still like to drag race so I cant justify the added cost and weight gain of 17" drag racing wheels.
Supercharged mustang + stock brakes + race track = your a retard.

Sorry, I have no room to be polite.

You can fit Cobra brakes with 15' Draglites, so get the spacer, do some measuring and get some stopping power before you hit a wall at 100+ mph.

1) So, yes. 13' rotors with PBR calipers, and any draglite or Bogart, with a spacer of ~30mm or so.

2) You should not need a S-trim to go 12s

3) You should not need Draglites to go 12s

3) Better lap times come from driving, not throwing stupid parts on your car.

4) Get real race tires, Hoosiers or RA-1s or something...

5) did I mention Driving?

Spend all 1500$ on cobra brakes,pads, and track time.
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post #27 of 39 Old 01-23-2006, 07:10 AM
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This is just too easy to not pile on. Right now you are a prime example of why it is so difficult for mustangs to get any respect at the track. This is probably not the forum for you to get props for your supercharger, there is a reason very (very) few road racers use them.

1. Spend 500$ on brakes like everyone & their little sister have already told you.
2. With the remaining $ take your SC mustang to a drivers school at Gingerman or Gratten and actually drive the car. My bet is until it overheats you'll actually learn something.

Or just blow us off, I'm sure your SC mustang will look great as it gets towed back to the pits.

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post #28 of 39 Old 01-23-2006, 07:43 AM
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I have a completely stock 91 coupe, much lighter than that 94 pig. My MOTOR is 100% stock. I have a K&N and some mufflers, so my car is way slower than your car is going to be. The absolute first thing I did to my car was flush the brake fluid with some 600 degree boiling point motul fluid, added steel braided lines and put hawk hps+ pads in it after scuffing up the OE rotors. Next was put a quality set of tires on it, not shi**y drag radials.

This is only just enough to be safe on a long/hybrid AUTOCROSS COURSE, let alone a track where you'll be doing 120 mph on the front straight every lap.

LISTEN TO WHAT THESE PEOPLE ARE TELLING YOU!!! What, are you going to go to a road race track and just "take it easy on the brakes" so they don't overheat. Your going to be driving the car that everyone hopes to God isn't behind them going into turn one. Good Luck.
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post #29 of 39 Old 01-24-2006, 12:46 AM Thread Starter
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Okay guys, I understand and like I said I plan on doing brakes, Stop piling on like I'm a frickin retard. Its people like me that actually race their mustang and are trying to improve its balance, not being a jerkoff and thinking that a blower is going to make my laptimes faster. Fact is that I also drag race and its easier & cheaper to run a SC to get good 1/4 times on a stock longblock.

No you dont need slicks or a SC to run 12's, but mine will do it on a moderate budget and be reliable, so whats wrong with that?

Say what you will, but my 315/35 Nitto drags at max psi dont have any flex to speak of, and offer great traction. I plan on getting the 555R2's in 275/40/17's up front to help with understeer.

I only ever go to T&T and rentals, so I DONT overdrive MY car, nor my abilities. I actually do take it easy on the brakes since I know they are a weak link. I much more enjoy mid-corner grip than slamming on the brakes to extract every ounce of entry speed. I only go for fun, no wheel-to-wheel racing, so I'm no so concerned with going to the extreme like alot of people are. I ALWAYS ALWAYS brake early, way earlier than even the stock brakes require. Like I said its my daily/weekend driver, so I dont abuse it or try to make it perform anymore than it can.

BTW I have a 2 core aluminum Fluidyne rad, 180* t-stat, and probably will get at least a new OEM water pump, if not a electric unit this year. So it runs nice & cool right now, as far as the last 2 events went. I'm sure with the S-trim it will run hotter, but we'll see how it holds up.

You guys need to just take a step back and give advice, not talk down to me like I'm throwing retarded ideas out there. I know I need brakes, thats pretty obvious.

I only go to the road course maybe 3-4 times a year, so in all honesty its not worth the money to drop $1k on a dedicated set of racing wheels/tires. I'd love to, but its just not in the budget.

From the research I've done so far I'm leaning towards the 99+ PBR calipers, new OEM's in the rear, & SS lines.

That leaves me with decent brakes (ok aholes at least better than 94 GT brakes), so should stiffer shocks be next? i've heard good about the Mach 1 bilsteins, or what adjustable aftermarket shocks work decent in both drag & handling? I know dual-purpose suspensions are tough to setup, but I'm just looking for a nice compromise. Decent ride with minimal bodyroll, and then soften it up when I go to the drag strip, and stiffen it up at the road course.

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post #30 of 39 Old 01-24-2006, 12:31 PM
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2 questions for you and then maybe we can get this thread back on track for you:

1) Tell us your wheel/tire line up. What do you put on, or plan to put the front when you go to the strip. Is it the 17" TT wheels shown in your pictures? If so, Cobra brakes will fit under them just fine so we don't understand what your push back is. Please clarify....
2) What do YOU want to spend this $1500 on? And are you sure a used set of Cobra calipers and $70/each cobra rotors from tire rack are not in your budget?

One more....have you been to a track event after installing the sc? I'm guessing not based on your orginal post. Are you really sure you can step out of the loud pedal about half way down the straight like you say. I'm guessing its going to be hard to once you hear and feel that blower. I guarantee you are going to go home with wrapped rotors and used up pads if you don't upgrade so what are you really saving?

Oops....never mind, found this after looking further into your album. You're just not smart. Caption below the pictures says
Quote:
That's about 154mph, speedometer is correct. I took the pic myself.

Toys - gota have'm.....


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post #31 of 39 Old 01-24-2006, 02:24 PM
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Maybe the guys over at CC.com can help you better than we can.

KDS
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post #32 of 39 Old 01-24-2006, 03:36 PM
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Quote:
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My be the guys over at CC.com can help you better than we can.
Good idea, make certain you tell them that you want to drag race and by all means start the post by saying you did a search even if you didn't. Should get some great advice since its going in the crapper here.

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post #33 of 39 Old 01-24-2006, 07:57 PM
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Apparently the recomendations that have been given are not sinking in.
Get a clue!
If your worried about weight take the pass seat out, spare tire, run with only a gallon of gas to drag. There you have made up for the weight in breaks. This will save your a$$ from going into the tulips at the track.

Better yet stay at the strip.


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post #34 of 39 Old 01-24-2006, 07:57 PM
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Forgot 4 words "Stevie Wonder Driving School"

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post #35 of 39 Old 01-24-2006, 09:17 PM
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Taking a picture of your speedo at 150+ and having the mental discipline to "go easy" on anything do not compute. PLEASE go to cornercarvers.com, surf for hours, get some driving schools under your belt, and dont do that s%$t again ANYWHERE. Then post up again here.

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