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post #1 of 5 Old 11-20-2005, 03:39 PM Thread Starter
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Questions on steering parts

Putting in the new Kmember and front suspension and I'm looking at the rubber bushings on the steering rack...should I go with the aluminum ones?


Is it worth replaceing the "rag joint" in the steering shaft with one of the u-jount ones?

INFO:
1989 Notch
Its a street car with a stroked and blown 349cid. Going in now is H&R race springs and Billsteins. Car will see less than 1000 miles a year and some auto-x and open track events.

Thanks!


-Mike

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A4 349 Stroker, Eagle 5.315" rods, Ross Custom pistons, Novi 2000, Victor 5.0, AFR 205, 60's, Aeromotive sumped tank & A-1000 fuel system, Probe SMR, Custom Cam, PA K-member, Mac Long tubes and cat back, Turbo Coupe rear disks out back Lincoln brakes up front. MegaSquirtin'

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post #2 of 5 Old 11-20-2005, 05:50 PM
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The aluminum ones make the steering razor-sharp, assuming the rest of it is in good shape...just be very careful that you cut the locator dowels short enough as instructed. If you don't, the bushings don't seat on the K-member and the rack will walk around and drive you nuts. As for the rag joint, IMHO, it's to blame for about .00001% of the problems attributed to it on a Fox body.

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post #3 of 5 Old 11-20-2005, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MFE
The aluminum ones make the steering razor-sharp, assuming the rest of it is in good shape...just be very careful that you cut the locator dowels short enough as instructed. If you don't, the bushings don't seat on the K-member and the rack will walk around and drive you nuts. As for the rag joint, IMHO, it's to blame for about .00001% of the problems attributed to it on a Fox body.
http://corner-carvers.com/forums/sho...+steering+rack

After searching many boards I'm guessing your issue with the bushings was the dowels?

-Mike

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A4 349 Stroker, Eagle 5.315" rods, Ross Custom pistons, Novi 2000, Victor 5.0, AFR 205, 60's, Aeromotive sumped tank & A-1000 fuel system, Probe SMR, Custom Cam, PA K-member, Mac Long tubes and cat back, Turbo Coupe rear disks out back Lincoln brakes up front. MegaSquirtin'

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post #4 of 5 Old 11-21-2005, 09:56 AM
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Actually the non-linearity was good old fashioned bump-steer, the wheel being moveable relative to steeting input was mostly one of the rack dowels having a piece of cutting flash left on it by some lousy mechanic (ahem...ME), and the rack chatter was partly the rack and partly the fact that I ran the wrong fluid in it until this summer :blush:

Talk about all kinds of ****ed up.
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post #5 of 5 Old 12-02-2005, 12:05 PM
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Actually, I just put a new rack on my car from Latemodel, Koni shocks, Eibach springs, Steeda caster camber plates, and a bump steer kit from UPR. I bought a K-member from D&D four years ago and I just now put it all on the car. Aside from not securing the rack on the k member because of my lack of ability to run down the proper hardware not supplied with the k-member, it's all togeather. Actually, I too was debating on the switch to a solid or poly rack bushing. So- with all this in mind, which one is better and any mistakes to watch out for in getting all this alighned up?

I put new hoses on the car when I did the rack, but used the original pump. And geez- I had to use all the spacers to align the tie rod with the stock A-arms....this sound about right??? I just dont want anything to break or come apart in a race...

Thanks
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