Brake Duct Hose Mounting - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 11-16-2005, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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Brake Duct Hose Mounting

I'm new to this forum but have been autocrossing and driving at open track events for a while. I have a 2003 GT that I recently took to Sebring for an HPDE event. I had Satisfied's GranSport racing pads all around on basically a stock gt braking system. It was all good until my brakes decided to overheat going into the hairpin turn, sending me off track, luckily there was plenty of run-off room due to past events. Anyway, I met the guy who owned Need for Speed racing in Clearwater and he told me i needed brake cooling ducts. As I have read in this forum, these are a must for track events. He sells a kit with brackets and hoses for $300. This seems pretty expensive because I have found the tubing for temp.'s for up to 650 degrees for $100 for 12 ft. Are the brackets realy going to cost me about $150? And is there any alternative mounting I can do myself that will secure the hose without worrying that it will fly off on a track? Any info you guys can give me will be great. thanks

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post #2 of 13 Old 11-16-2005, 05:14 PM
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There have been some threads on it here if you search, and you can get some ideas (including mine) from the brakes section at www.opentracking.com

On my 92, I found some funnels I could squeeze down into oval-shaped scoops and screw to the bottom of the fascia. Taped high-temp hose to that, routed it so it would clear the wheels at full lock, zip-tied it to the frame rail and the tie rod end, and used a small clamp to hold it to a hole in the spindle, and pinched the hose down to blow into the center of the rotor. No backing plates. Fancier designs use custom backing plates and custom scoops. It really doesn't take much more than minor tools and supplies, some time under the car staring at the situation at hand, and some creativity.

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post #3 of 13 Old 11-17-2005, 08:10 AM
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On my 99GT I sacrificed the worthless fog lights to duct air to the front brakes. If you remove the adjustment screw at the top of the fog light you can then pry it out of the housing from one side with a screwdriver. What you have left is a housing that resembles a brake cooling duct. I bought a 2 1/2" shop vac hose kit from Home Depot for about 20 bucks that came with 10-15 ft. of hose and 6 ends for plumbing dust collection systems. The ends that came with the kit will squeeze tightly into the fog light housing from the front and protrude out the back to connect the hose. I then routed the hose around so it was inside the curve of the swaybar to prevent the tire from rubbing it in to. I stuck another one of the ends on the hose and aimed it at the inner hub of the brake rotor tying everything off with wire ties. You have to remove or cut a hole in the splash guard. That has been covered here also and nobody has had a problem with removing the splash guards.

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post #4 of 13 Old 11-17-2005, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you guys for helping me out with this minor problem. I have ordered some tubing from Hoer Racaing Products. I got the high temp tubing in 2-1/2", so there shouldn't be any problem mounting them into the fog light holes. Also getting a set of cobra calipers for the front, along with Brembo rotors and stainless steel brake lines. Should be pretty good, for now. Thanks for the help.
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post #5 of 13 Old 11-17-2005, 10:01 AM
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I haven't delved into it too much, but does anyone know if the fogs and their mounting h/w can be removed on a '98 without sacrificing the lower valence structural integrity? I know the fog brackets in my old Fox GT were basically all that was connecting the stiffening plate (at the bottom of the valence) to the frame, and when they were removed the plastic of the valence would flex and tear.
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post #6 of 13 Old 11-18-2005, 12:51 PM
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Almost ANYTHING you do will be better.
Continue with what you are doing (asking around), and buy/create your brake ducts.

p.s. IMOHO, 2/5" is a little on the small side, and I went with 3".


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post #7 of 13 Old 11-18-2005, 03:23 PM
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Quote:
does anyone know if the fogs and their mounting h/w can be removed on a '98 without sacrificing the lower valence structural integrity?
I'd assume it's no different than my '95GT, and therefore it's not structural.

here's is what I did on my '95GT:



more pics and a small write-up can be found on my website.
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post #8 of 13 Old 11-18-2005, 05:18 PM
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Does that direct the air to the caliper?
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post #9 of 13 Old 11-19-2005, 09:28 PM
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Quote:
Does that direct the air to the caliper?
no, to the rotor hat...I ripped off Griggs design
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post #10 of 13 Old 11-21-2005, 07:52 AM
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Thanks, kpl.

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post #11 of 13 Old 11-21-2005, 09:53 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SCCARACERGT
I had Satisfied's GranSport racing pads all around on basically a stock gt braking system. It was all good until my brakes decided to overheat going into the hairpin turn, sending me off track, luckily there was plenty of run-off room due to past events.
What compound were you running? GS3? GS4?

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post #12 of 13 Old 11-22-2005, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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I believe they were the gs4's. I switched them out after Sebring because there wasn't that much left of them. I'm going to try the hawk hp plus pads next time. Not sure though, I might be ordering a 2006 GT. Just have to wait and see.
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post #13 of 13 Old 11-23-2005, 06:13 PM
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KPL--- simple but effective. I like it.

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