How do I get that nice and tight feeling... - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 22 Old 11-15-2005, 07:39 PM Thread Starter
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How do I get that nice and tight feeling...

FROM MY CAR, sickos!

What mods do I have to do to get a tight feeling from my car. Right now I have SS springs, bilstiens, c/c plates, subframes and it feels decent. That's it for the suspension. I also have poly motor mounts. I'am getting a new tranny mount also. If you can recommend me some suspension parts that would be good. this is for a street application but I don't mind the suspension being stiff.


90' GT - H/C/I
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post #2 of 22 Old 11-15-2005, 08:55 PM
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Poly bushings everywhere! And get a chassis brace while you have everything apart.


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post #3 of 22 Old 11-16-2005, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poorracerkid
Poly bushings everywhere!
Sure, if you want a nice tight car that handles like ass. That's decent advice for the front of the car but not the rear.
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post #4 of 22 Old 11-16-2005, 12:54 PM
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post #5 of 22 Old 11-16-2005, 02:13 PM
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panhard bar.

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post #6 of 22 Old 11-16-2005, 02:26 PM
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COIL OVER SETUP!
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post #7 of 22 Old 11-16-2005, 02:26 PM
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Road and track box from MM.

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post #8 of 22 Old 11-16-2005, 03:33 PM
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I would agree with the panhard bar suggestion. Really helps with the rear end wiggles.

'00 Atlantic Blue GT - '03 Cobra swap, TKO600, full MM suspension
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post #9 of 22 Old 11-16-2005, 04:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coleman2kgt
Road and track box from MM.

Yep, Pretty much sums up the last year of mods for my car. Great kit, though I got it one piece at a time.

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post #10 of 22 Old 11-16-2005, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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I have the starter kit from MM. Not looking to change anything I've done just additions. That rear end wiggling always annoys me so I'll probably get a panhard.

Quote:
Sure, if you want a nice tight car that handles like ass. That's decent advice for the front of the car but not the rear.
Preach on!


90' GT - H/C/I
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post #11 of 22 Old 11-16-2005, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by poorracerkid
Poly bushings everywhere!
Oh how this kills me....must be a member of the more is better club. This is road racing forum you drag queen!

I3oostedcubes....unless I missed the obvious, you might want to tell us what you have for a car and a little more detail on the current suspension mods. As others have mentioned a panhard bar is a good bang for the buck. Don't do poly at both ends of upper or lower control arms. Yeah, its nice to lock that axle down from moving fore-aft or side-to-side, but you don't want to restrict the axle from twisting when it comes to handling. Anytime the car leans or one wheel goes up and the other down, the control arms must twist about their axis rather than just rotate. Poly bushing at both ends of the control arms will create a binding condition when this happens and drive wheel rates (think of it as spring rates but for the entire system) up drastically. This is why smart aftermarket suspension folks offer control arms with poly in one end and spherical bushing in the other. I've been running SVO rear lower arms which have non-voided rubber bushings and a panhard bar with very good results.

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Mike Schneider

1982 Mustang GT - 408w and other super zoomy stuff...
Tracks driven: Mid-Ohio, Grattan, Putnam Park, Gingerman, Autobahn Country Club, Waterford Hills, Ford Proving Grounds, and Bondurant.

Last edited by Toys; 11-16-2005 at 09:00 PM.
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post #12 of 22 Old 11-16-2005, 09:07 PM Thread Starter
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I mentioned what I had in my first post.

90' GT - H/C/I
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post #13 of 22 Old 11-16-2005, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I3oostedCubes
Right now I have SS springs, bilstiens, c/c plates, subframes
Oh silly me....SS springs tells me everything I need to know because they all have the same rate, just like all Bilstiens are all the same, oh and 79-05 Mustangs are identical too. Come on....you didn't even tell us what year Mustang you have. I was trying to be polite in my request for additional info, hinting that more help could come your way with more detail from you, but never mind.......

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Mike Schneider

1982 Mustang GT - 408w and other super zoomy stuff...
Tracks driven: Mid-Ohio, Grattan, Putnam Park, Gingerman, Autobahn Country Club, Waterford Hills, Ford Proving Grounds, and Bondurant.

Last edited by Toys; 11-16-2005 at 10:27 PM.
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post #14 of 22 Old 11-16-2005, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah and I thought I mentioned what I had except for the year. It's a 95 GT and I also said I had the MM starter box, so what ever that came with. I subbed the SS springs... these are H&R's... instead of the Race version they come with as I wanted a little more drop.

Thanks for not helping me, when was I rude and not polite?

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post #15 of 22 Old 11-17-2005, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I3oostedCubes
Yeah and I thought I mentioned what I had except for the year. It's a 95 GT and I also said I had the MM starter box, so what ever that came with. I subbed the SS springs... these are H&R's... instead of the Race version they come with as I wanted a little more drop.

Thanks for not helping me, when was I rude and not polite?
Don't mind him, sounds like he peed the bed or something the night before. Anyway, Poly bushings for your entire front end would be a good start. At the same time replace your tranny crossmember bushings with urethane and examine the condition of your rear tranny mount isolator. MM LCA and FRPP UCA coupled with a PHB would be a great addition to the rear. If you have extra cash lying, drop the UCA and put in a MM torque arm.

88 LX Hatchback (100K Miles), Stock Engine, B&M Shifter, SFC, ST Brace, G-Load Brace, Eibach Pro Kit, Tokico Illumina Adj, MM LCA, FRPP UCA, FRPP FCA, Mac EL Headers, Dynomax Super Turbos, Mark VII front disc, TC rear disc, ROH ZR6 16x8, Fuzion ZRi 225/50R16, Corbeau Forza DS
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post #16 of 22 Old 11-17-2005, 09:17 PM
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Double post

Toys - gota have'm.....


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Mike Schneider

1982 Mustang GT - 408w and other super zoomy stuff...
Tracks driven: Mid-Ohio, Grattan, Putnam Park, Gingerman, Autobahn Country Club, Waterford Hills, Ford Proving Grounds, and Bondurant.

Last edited by Toys; 11-17-2005 at 09:25 PM.
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post #17 of 22 Old 11-17-2005, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Toys
I3oostedcubes....unless I missed the obvious, you might want to tell us what you have for a car and a little more detail on the current suspension mods. As others have mentioned a panhard bar is a good bang for the buck. Don't do poly at both ends of upper or lower control arms. Yeah, its nice to lock that axle down from moving fore-aft or side-to-side, but you don't want to restrict the axle from twisting when it comes to handling. Anytime the car leans or one wheel goes up and the other down, the control arms must twist about their axis rather than just rotate. Poly bushing at both ends of the control arms will create a binding condition when this happens and drive wheel rates (think of it as spring rates but for the entire system) up drastically. This is why smart aftermarket suspension folks offer control arms with poly in one end and spherical bushing in the other. I've been running SVO rear lower arms which have non-voided rubber bushings and a panhard bar with very good results.
How was this not helping you? And I never said you were rude or impolite.

Now this clown insinuating I have a bed wetting problem is another story.....

The point I was trying to make is that YOU need to understand what you have so we can help you. Know your spring rates, what's in a MM starter box, etc...then you'll start to understand how all these parts work together and we can give you better advise. I'm always happy to help someone out, we all started somewhere.

Toys - gota have'm.....


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Mike Schneider

1982 Mustang GT - 408w and other super zoomy stuff...
Tracks driven: Mid-Ohio, Grattan, Putnam Park, Gingerman, Autobahn Country Club, Waterford Hills, Ford Proving Grounds, and Bondurant.

Last edited by Toys; 11-17-2005 at 09:37 PM.
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post #18 of 22 Old 11-17-2005, 11:48 PM Thread Starter
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It's all good.

To get technical the SS spring rates are as is: Front: 700-760, Rear: 275-300

Shocks are Bilstien HD's. MM C/C plates. MM full length subframes.

Maybe I should be more clear on what I want. I DO NOT circle track race, this is more like I want the whole car to go in the direction at once when I turn on the street or when I'am driving spirited down a canyon road. I don't like swaying, rear end movement. I need the car to move in sync. I don't need anything HARD CORE(to my knowledge at least). Mild upgrades like panhard bar and poly bushings up front seem like good ideas.

What do I need in the rear? Recommend me some rear control arms, things of that nature.

90' GT - H/C/I
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post #19 of 22 Old 11-18-2005, 09:01 AM
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MM LCA coupled with FRPP UCA. I'm pretty happy with mine but they will not completely eliminate tail wagging under hard acceleration. A PHB would help in that area.

88 LX Hatchback (100K Miles), Stock Engine, B&M Shifter, SFC, ST Brace, G-Load Brace, Eibach Pro Kit, Tokico Illumina Adj, MM LCA, FRPP UCA, FRPP FCA, Mac EL Headers, Dynomax Super Turbos, Mark VII front disc, TC rear disc, ROH ZR6 16x8, Fuzion ZRi 225/50R16, Corbeau Forza DS
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post #20 of 22 Old 11-18-2005, 09:03 AM
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Now I can say you have a good start and better help you, springs look ok and the Bilstein HD are good units. From what you described I would definitely recommend the panhard bar, as did others, but wouldn't get real hung up on control arms just yet. What you need to do is get the lateral movement of the axle fixed and the panhard bar will do that. If you're jones'n for control arms, pick up a set of MM lowers, they understand the bind issues I described earlier and have done a good job developing their parts, but I'd leave the uppers alone for now. Those OE soft uppers are actually a good thing at this point because the uppers need to twist even more than the lowers. Put some miles on the car with a panhard bar addition and maybe lower control arms and then decide if you're in the market for a torque arm or 5-link before you spend money on upper arms. With a torque arm or 5-link you will be removing the uppers anyway.

Get the rear of the car sorted out first, then focus on the front. Urethane up front is ok because the control arms only rotate about the axis and don't twist like the rears. But again, I'd fix the rear before spending money up front. You should also do things in stages so you learn the effect that each part change has and why.

Just my $.02, hope it helps....

Toys - gota have'm.....


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Mike Schneider

1982 Mustang GT - 408w and other super zoomy stuff...
Tracks driven: Mid-Ohio, Grattan, Putnam Park, Gingerman, Autobahn Country Club, Waterford Hills, Ford Proving Grounds, and Bondurant.
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post #21 of 22 Old 12-11-2005, 11:49 AM
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anyone using a evolution motorsports watts link? i was about to but would like some input first.thanks

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post #22 of 22 Old 12-12-2005, 01:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by I3oostedCubes
Yeah and I thought I mentioned what I had except for the year. It's a 95 GT and I also said I had the MM starter box, so what ever that came with. I subbed the SS springs... these are H&R's... instead of the Race version they come with as I wanted a little more drop.

Thanks for not helping me, when was I rude and not polite?
Get real man.. Toys offered some great advice to you in this thread.

If you want help, you shouldn't be vague with stuff.. especially in saying "i have the MM starter box" - cause that doesn't mean **** to me! Spring rates also matter! There are a handful of people on this board who can give you great advice with the right info!

I'd listen to Toys, among others.. poly up front, PHB, MM lower arms, and i think you will be satisfied.

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