Question about MM rear lower control arms - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 11-11-2005, 08:42 AM Thread Starter
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Question about MM rear lower control arms

I just installed MM lower control arms and full length subframe connectors and I noticed that when I accelerate from a third gear roll in a straight line(3000 rpms to 6000 rpms), the back of the car feels looser. The tires will slide around until I get to the higher rpms, then they'll catch and grip. I checked the lower control arms and didn't find any binding or any signs of a poor install. I installed the lower control arms myself.

Could it be that the car is stiffer now and needs a different driving style? Could the flex from the chassis before the sub install and the stock lower control arms have given me more grip?

Thanks,
Henry


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post #2 of 16 Old 11-11-2005, 09:26 AM
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You're transfer more useable power to the rear wheels(instead of flex/rubber slop).......that and it's probably pretty cold outside, and your tires are/were cold.

.......just a hunch, though.

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post #3 of 16 Old 11-11-2005, 11:00 AM
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The MM lowers alone will not completely eliminate dog tail waggin under load. They should definitely improve the feeling over stock (I noticed a difference when I did the swap). A revamping of your uppers along with the addition of a panhard rod should really help things out.

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post #4 of 16 Old 11-11-2005, 11:12 AM Thread Starter
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I was looking into the PHB but I'm not so sure if it'll fit around my fuel cell. Does anyone know if this is possible? When I called MM, they said that it is possible but I can't see it. I had a PHB installed on my old 95 Cobra and it was tight. I just can't see it fitting on the R without major modifications ($$$$$$).

I think what 2K2GT is telling me is correct. Maybe with the stiffer chassis and RLCAS, I'm getting more power transferred to the rear wheels and this is causing my problem.

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post #5 of 16 Old 11-11-2005, 12:10 PM
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I didn't notice any difference when I made the same changes. But then, I've got maybe 210 rwhp.

If you want some forward traction, try a torque arm. With my power level, I could only feel the difference on launch and out of tight auto-cross corners, but the change was substantial.

I know Dave Schotz was running a Steeda PHB and 5-link on his '95 Cobra R with the OEM cell. You might be able to track him down at SCCAForums.com.

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post #6 of 16 Old 11-11-2005, 02:08 PM
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You need a panhard bar... I first installed my MM adjustable lower control arms by themselves because the panhard was taking longer to be shipped from MM, and I hated the way the car handled... The rearend felt way more loose/vague then when I was running the stock control arms...

I would not recommend just running the lowers IMO...

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post #7 of 16 Old 11-11-2005, 02:15 PM
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Take this for what it's worth. I ran just the lowers on my car because the PHB was more install time oriented. I ran about 3 autox's and I thought the car put the power to the ground significantly better, eliminated wheel hop, and made the car more predictable. The addition of the PHB took the cornering stability to another level and allowed you to get on the throttle sooner(more near the apex)through the turn(s). Whereas before, I was more apt to wait for corner exit to begin applying the throttle.
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post #8 of 16 Old 11-11-2005, 07:46 PM Thread Starter
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The car did wheelhop with the stock arms, at the track, and it does feel better when I turn but it's loose accelerating from a stop and throughout the rpm range. Maybe the car is putting the power down better since there is less flex and has exposed a new weakness (my tires).

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post #9 of 16 Old 11-12-2005, 04:31 PM
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I was going to suggest exactly that.
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post #10 of 16 Old 11-12-2005, 05:07 PM
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Henry,

Here is what I think is going on.

With the stock control arms, there is quite a bit of compliance in the control arm bushings in the fore-aft and side to side directions. With the MM lower control arms, the fore-aft movement is reduced to a very small amount. The torque that you are applying to the differential can't go into compressing the control arm bushings in a fore-aft direction as much. The axle is still free to move side to side as much as it did with the stock control arms. The increase in fore-aft stiffness of the bushings along with decreased movement of the drivers seat from the subframe connectors, can make the lateral motion of the axle and tire sidewall flex much more apparent.

As an experiment, try adding 2psi of pressure to your rear tires. I bet that you can feel this change much more easily in the handling of the car now.


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post #11 of 16 Old 11-12-2005, 06:44 PM Thread Starter
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I added 2 psi to my rear tires and the car became harder to handle. I have to modulate the accelerator to keep the car going in a straight line. Before I go on, I have to admit that my tires are the OEM tires that originally came with this car in February of 1995. They only have 6000 miles on them, still look brand new, have full tread, and have been garage kept over the years but they still are over 10.5 years old.

I think the next thing for me are going to be new tires.

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post #12 of 16 Old 11-12-2005, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HPLouis
I have to admit that my tires are the OEM tires that originally came with this car in February of 1995. They only have 6000 miles on them, still look brand new, have full tread, and have been garage kept over the years but they still are over 10.5 years old.
That's stunning considering the number of modifications you've done to your car. I'd have a tough time not driving a car like yours very often if I had one.
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post #13 of 16 Old 11-12-2005, 07:37 PM Thread Starter
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I bought the car last year with only 3000 miles on it. The prior owner had several other cars so he just never drove this one.
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post #14 of 16 Old 11-12-2005, 11:32 PM
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Henry,

My comment about adding 2psi of rear tire pressure wasn't because I thought it would fix the handling of the car. With a completely stock rear suspension filled with rubber bushings, you can vary the tire pressure 2-3psi and barely tell any difference. As bushing compliance is removed from your suspension, the remaining compliances (mostly the tires) become very easy to feel. The point of making the change was that you would probably be able to tell a significant difference in the feel of the car.

If those tires are 10 years old, they are probably not very good. Even if stored indoors away from UV, the rubber is going to age and get harder.

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post #15 of 16 Old 11-13-2005, 06:22 AM
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I agree. Tires are very overlooked in my opinion. If you're driving on ice and upgrade parts to increase power/put down power more effectively.....it's still the fact that you're driving on ICE.
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post #16 of 16 Old 11-13-2005, 08:09 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the advice everyone. I did notice a difference with the added tire pressure. I'm going to search for some new tires.

What will the addition of a Panhard bar do for me? Will it stabilize the rear end or will it further accentuate my need for tires?

2004 Mystichrome #117 Cobra Convertible #366, bone stock with 3,100 miles.

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