what settings can you get on cc plates - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 11-02-2005, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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what settings can you get on cc plates

what have any of you been able set you car up using the Stock cc plates??

i was reading the write-up i found when i did a search, and it said to just max out caster, and i have no problem figuring out camber and toe..

i'd like to run -2 camber and 0 toe..

please bear with me because i've never done this before..

once i have the car level.. i just loosen the three bolts on the strut mount,

and for caster i just move the plate as far FORWARD as it can go?

for negative camber i should move the plate down towards the engine?

so basically i know i can't get a whole lot out of the stock ccplates but i essentially want to move them as far forward and then almost as far down as i can???

from there i can set the toe no problem... i've done that when changing tie-rods, bump-steer kits a few times.

i would just like to make sure i've got it right before i start cranking away.
i want to try some different things and see what kind of feedback i can get.

thanks guys.
matt


Last edited by matt'sdrag95; 11-02-2005 at 08:28 PM.
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post #2 of 13 Old 11-02-2005, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matt'sdrag95
i'd like to run -2 camber and 0 toe..
Good luck. I highly doubt you can get -1* out of the stock plates, much less - 2*. It will take camber bolts or aftermarket cc plates.

Quote:
Once i have the car level.. i just loosen the three bolts on the strut mount and for caster i just move the plate as far FORWARD as it can go?
First off...you can't adjust caster with the stockers. With aftermarket pieces you would adjust the caster by moving the struts towards the firewall.

Quote:
for negative camber i should move the plate down towards the engine?
Yes.

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i would just like to make sure i've got it right before i start cranking away. i want to try some different things and see what kind of feedback i can get.
Do a search for "caster camber" and use "MFE" under the username. There's plenty to read and educate yourself with the threads that will show up.

Get some MM cc plates and be done with it.

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post #3 of 13 Old 11-02-2005, 10:49 PM
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Yeah, don't mess around and go ahead and get the MM plates. I messed up and got the Steeda 3 bolt plates. The best I could do with them is -2.5* of camber and had to use a plasma cutter to lengthen the slots on top of the strut tower to get that. I found out real quick I could use even more negative camber.
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post #4 of 13 Old 11-03-2005, 08:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Parsons
Yeah, don't mess around and go ahead and get the MM plates. I messed up and got the Steeda 3 bolt plates. The best I could do with them is -2.5* of camber and had to use a plasma cutter to lengthen the slots on top of the strut tower to get that. I found out real quick I could use even more negative camber.

Hmmm. I can only get -2* on my fox with MM plates and I had to enlarge the strut hole to keep it from hitting.

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post #5 of 13 Old 11-03-2005, 09:27 AM
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I run -3.5*, zero toe, with no CC plates, and no mods to the strut tower.

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post #6 of 13 Old 11-03-2005, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sydhawk
I run -3.5*, zero toe, with no CC plates, and no mods to the strut tower.

see THAT's what i'm talking about...

i'm just going to loosen the stock mount and move it as far down as i can and see what i can get..

if i can't get what i'd like then i'll have to buy some CC plates sooner than i was planning..

thanks guys.
matt
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post #7 of 13 Old 11-03-2005, 09:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sydhawk
I run -3.5*, zero toe, with no CC plates, and no mods to the strut tower.

Yeah, but you're Canadian. Is that -3.5* C of F? J/K

Apparently camber capabilities vary year to year as Ford varied control arm length and the location of the strut towers.
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post #8 of 13 Old 11-03-2005, 11:58 AM
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It's got nothing to do with different years. All my adjustments, for camber, are made at the bottom, not the top. I still have room to adjust for even more negative at the top.

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post #9 of 13 Old 11-03-2005, 12:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sydhawk
It's got nothing to do with different years. All my adjustments, for camber, are made at the bottom, not the top. I still have room to adjust for even more negative at the top.

You didn't say you were running camber bolts, are you? Control arm length and K memeber width will determine camber capability, and those have changed considerably over the years.

Last edited by 92MNstanger; 11-03-2005 at 12:08 PM.
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post #10 of 13 Old 11-03-2005, 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 92MNstanger
You didn't say you were running camber bolts. Control arm length and K memeber width will determine camber capability, and those have changed considerably over the years.
I didn't say I was running camber bolts, cuz I'm not. I don't even know what they are. There's ways of getting camber without adding anything, or spending cash.Yes control arms changed slightly, but not enuff to give you a ton of negative.


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post #11 of 13 Old 11-03-2005, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sydhawk
I didn't say I was running camber bolts, cuz I'm not. I don't even know what they are. There's ways of getting camber without adding anything, or spending cash.Yes control arms changed slightly, but not enuff to give you a ton of negative.
I guess I have a differrnt definitin of slightly. To me an inch is a lot.


Care to enlighten us on your magic?
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post #12 of 13 Old 11-03-2005, 04:15 PM
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Balljoints also make a difference. I now have X2 balljoints and I have lost almost a full degree of static camber (and some caster) from when I used the stock balljoints.

Right height will also make a difference in range as the control arm will be at different points in its arch at difference ride heights.

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post #13 of 13 Old 11-03-2005, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sydhawk
I run -3.5*, zero toe, with no CC plates, and no mods to the strut tower.
How easy is it to adjust it back to a reasonable camber setting for the street?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 92MNstanger
Hmmm. I can only get -2* on my fox with MM plates and I had to enlarge the strut hole to keep it from hitting.
I have a '96 Cobra and according to MM's install directions for the '94 up CC plates, you can get up to -3.25* of negative camber out of them. I'd like to try at least -3* because I still get excessive outer edge wear with max negative camber and 4* of caster on a certain track I go to pretty regularly. Besides, I'll be installing coilovers eventually and will need the 4 bolt plates anyway.

Last edited by Parsons; 11-03-2005 at 06:20 PM.
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