First, the caster. I have no provision for measuring this, just remember on a Fox body car you canâ€™t get enough so set each plate as far back as itâ€™ll go and forget it. If the car drifts to one side after all is said and done, remove caster from the side itâ€™s pulling toward. Edit: Norm Petersen says "You can make a simple jig from strips of wood or metal to make steering to a specific angle easier and more accurate. I made one for 14.5 degrees (left and right) when I upgraded the homemade camber measurement apparatus to one with a pivot, two magnetic levels, and a dial indicator for easier reading and less math. For 14.5 degrees, caster = 2.0 x (camber difference)." In other words measure the camber with the wheels turned 14.5 degrees left, then 14.5 degrees right, and multiply the difference in measurements by 2 and that's your caster. I drive a fox body and I just set it all the way back. One of these days I'll measure it.
Next, the camber. Easy. You just want to measure how far out of vertical the wheels are. With the car parked on a level floor and with the wheels pointed so theyâ€™re straight ahead (regardless of steering wheel position, you can fix that later, just go where you know the car tracks straight ahead), place a construction level against the bottom lip of one front wheel. Hold it so the level indicates perfect vertical (note: if this is not possible on your car, cut a length of wood to the exact lip-to-lip inside diameter, and use it as a standoff for the level), then using a ruler or tape measure, measure the distance from the edge of the level to the top edge of the wheel. 5/16 of an inch is essentially â€“1.0 degrees. 7/16 is just a hair over â€“1.5 degrees, my preferred street setting. It gives me hard cornering capability without chewing up the outside edges of the tires, and if you set your toe properly you shouldnâ€™t have to worry about inner edge wear. Some people (weenies, LOL) find this setting a bit aggressive but IMHO under no circumstances should you go less than 5/16. Youâ€™ll probably find yourself at the outside edge of c/c plate travel at the â€“1.0 range but it depends on a lot of things so you wonâ€™t know until you try.
Now, onto the Toe setting, always done last because camber has such a dramatic effect on it: You want to measure the difference in distances between reference points halfway up the front of the tires and halfway up the backs of the tires. Unless you drive a swamp buggy you canâ€™t just measure across because the car gets in the way, so you need a â€ścaliperâ€ť of some sort to transfer these points down to the ground level for measurement. You could do it with a plumb bob and some chalk and measure inbetween, which Iâ€™ve done with success, or you can make a tool. I got a 6 foot rail of that shelving material with the slots cut in it, that you hook thick sheet metal brackets into for putting boards on top of. I donâ€™t know what itâ€™s called, maybe slotted-rail shelving or something. I got one rail and two of the brackets, locked one bracket on the rail so it wonâ€™t move at all, and kept the second one as a â€śsliderâ€ť that will be used to actually take the measurement. Other people use square tubing and other kinds of bracketry. Get creative.
I set the rail under the car so it runs side to side, align the locked bracket with a specific portion of the tire tread halfway up the back of the tire, then positioned the other end of the rail to take a measurement. Before I measure, I go back and make sure the fixed end of the rail is still in position because itâ€™s easy to move as you position the other end. Then I place the slider bracket so it corresponds with the portion of tread Iâ€™m using and make a mark on the rail. Now bring the rail to the front of the tires and make another measurement the same way. The distance between the marks is toe. I pre-marked the rail in 1/16th increments where the slider would go but in any case thatâ€™s how you do it. If you use this bracket device youâ€™ll have to be precise about how the â€śsliderâ€ť bracket sits on the rail to maintain accuracy. I set mine so itâ€™s 1/16 toed in, meaning the front side measurement is 1/16th of an inch shorter than the measurement of the back side of the tires. Adjusting the toe is easy. You probably donâ€™t even need to raise the car. By holding the outer tie rod end with some vice grips or channel-locks, take a 7/8 wrench and loosen the jamnut. Then use pliers or a 14mm wrench on the tie rod itself to turn it inward or outward, then hold the assembly still while you tighten the jamnut. A little goes a long way, and if the wheel was crooked nowâ€™s your chance to fix it. One full turn of a tie rod should be 1/16th inch of toe change. If you need to toe the wheels in from where they are, start with the wheel opposite where the steering wheel is pointing. In other words if the wheel points to the left, take toe out of the right wheel. If you donâ€™t need to make a toe adjustment but you do need to straighten the wheel, add a little toe to the wheel on the side it points to and take the exact same amount out of the other side until the steering wheel runs straight.
My device looks like this, the bracket on the first photo is locked in place: