How does this suspension look so far... - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 09-14-2005, 02:06 AM Thread Starter
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How does this suspension look so far...

It's an 89 Fox 5spd, Looking to make a great handling car, hit some Open Track events. But mainly just have fun driving it I'm not looking for an all out racer.. I'm listing the parts I already have waiting to go on the car, if you see something missing, or I've obviously left it out, on what you see so far, can you guy's recommend the parts missing, or what I need to add.

Front

Qa1 Coil overs, Adj Struts.
Qa1 K member.
Qa1 Tubular A arms.
Grippi Caster Camber plates.
Strut Tower Brace.
G-Load Brace, 2pt.
Flaming River Manual Rack W/ Offset bushings

KB Frame connectors W/ Seat supports.
Solid Cross member bushings,CM Seams welded.
Cage going in sooner or later, not sure if 8 or 10Pt.

Rear

Wild Rides Upper Box supports
Wild Rides Lower Box supports
UPR ADJ. Uppers.
Solid Spherical bushings for rear.
Eibach 2" drop springs W/ Poly isolators.(Willing to change springs if I have too)

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post #2 of 13 Old 09-14-2005, 04:22 AM
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Have you already bought all of that stuff?



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post #3 of 13 Old 09-14-2005, 07:26 AM
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I can see you didn't do a whole hell of a lot of reserch first, eh? Just remember, eBay is your friend.
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post #4 of 13 Old 09-14-2005, 11:55 AM
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I had sex with the skanky girl down the street.

Should I have used a rubber?

Driving it 'til I wreck it.

Oh wait, I sold it, it was stolen and someone else wrecked it.
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post #5 of 13 Old 09-14-2005, 12:07 PM
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The whole setup is for drag racing. I would use a

Front Suspension

-AJE k-member and a-arms
-Maximium motorsport coil overs
-Maximium C/C
-Bilstein Struts
-Maximium Motorsports Full Length Subframe connectors

Rear Suspension

-Steeda 5-link
-Maximium Rear coil-over kit
-Steeda alumium LCA with adjustable spring perchs.
-Bilstein Shocks

As far as the flaming river rack, it is a good peace but if you can use power steering then please do..I personal can't cause I will only an alternator pulley and a crank pulley utilized(aka electric water pump)
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post #6 of 13 Old 09-14-2005, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
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It was all given to me brand new in the boxes. So buying it really wasn't an option. I've looked into the MM stuff and I like it all and would use it in a heartbeat, just wondering if I can work with what I already have....

Like I said, I'm not looking for a track star or anything just a good setup to tool around in...
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post #7 of 13 Old 09-14-2005, 01:40 PM
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i think what u have is a good set up of course theirs better but im sure youll have a blst with what u have now . id tone down the roll cage a bit if your not going to take it that serioue look in to a 4 or 6 point cage. dont expect to win 1st place with your set up but just having fun on the trrack is possible with your parts
post #8 of 13 Old 09-14-2005, 02:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paythedealerfull
i think what u have is a good set up of course theirs better but im sure youll have a blst with what u have now
If you are into drag racing, yes. The QA-1 K-member is extremely weak for road course work and the A-arm mounts are not very solid and could tear away from the main tube if you went off track. The QA-1 struts are great...for drag racing. They are only adjustable for rebound and the compression damping is much too firm for high rate springs. The 2" drop Eibach springs will lower your roll center too much and cause the car to handle worse, not better.

Forget everything I just typed, Mid10Notch, put all that stuff on your car and go drive it. Have fun. (it's easier to give in than to argue)
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post #9 of 13 Old 09-14-2005, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Glenn
If you are into drag racing, yes. The QA-1 K-member is extremely weak for road course work and the A-arm mounts are not very solid and could tear away from the main tube if you went off track. The QA-1 struts are great...for drag racing. They are only adjustable for rebound and the compression damping is much too firm for high rate springs. The 2" drop Eibach springs will lower your roll center too much and cause the car to handle worse, not better.

Forget everything I just typed, Mid10Notch, put all that stuff on your car and go drive it. Have fun. (it's easier to give in than to argue)
You forgot the spherical bearings for the rear control arms. If they are for the uppers too they will create bind.

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post #10 of 13 Old 09-14-2005, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mid10Notch
It was all given to me brand new in the boxes. So buying it really wasn't an option. I've looked into the MM stuff and I like it all and would use it in a heartbeat, just wondering if I can work with what I already have....
If the stuff was given to you, then why not sell it and use the money towards some better quality stuff?

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post #11 of 13 Old 09-14-2005, 06:54 PM Thread Starter
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I've tried to sell it numerous times, no buyer's


And why does everyone get so touchy? I simply asked a question, I didn't say I was right in this setup in any way. I simply asked people with experince in this area to tell me about what I have.
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post #12 of 13 Old 09-15-2005, 01:00 AM
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At the end of every straight there is a corner...

I don't think anybody got really touchy man. I have been sidelining this place for about 2 years on and off now, trying to figure out if I wanted to build cobra or a notch and from what I have seen there are 4 distinct flavors of guys in here and a ton of info for each mantra.

Drag
Road Race/Auto X
Bolt on Barneys
Street guys that want a neat car

The bolt on Barneys get pounced on quite rapidly...

That being said, Almost every part you listed is for an all out straight line kind of build with no real merit for suspension travel and weight and roll center transfer (at least laterally) but, the first sentence in your post was "great handling" so guys here see that and, roll their eyes and go "man doesn't this guy read anything." So don't take any offense. I am asking all sorts of obvious questions in the engine tech forum about motors right now just because i have never got in that deep so I don't know the lingo and i'm sure these guys roll their eyes on my posts a lot. There is way too much good info here to even get ruffled about it.

Look at my signature...the suspension parts in there are just about minimum for a "good & tight" handling car and, I am not even half way there. I could spend at least another 5K in brakes and front setup just to get to "Great" but, the card was smoking and I had to let it cool for a while. If you peice part a MM kit together for just the "middle of the road parts" it will run you about $3500.00 but it can get over 7K if you do everything they recommend. I have called them quite a bit and they are great with the info...Ditch the drag stuff if you want to carve a corner...No offense drag boys (that sounded weird) sorry for dragging on.

89 EX-AOD Notch

Installed-SSBC Rear Discs, MM T-Arm/Panhard/Full Sub's/LCA's/H&R W/Bilstein Coils FR & Rear,3.55's,AFR 165/58's,F303,Crane Rockers,BBK LT's, GT-40 In,Pypes X,70MM Pro-M, 70bbk TB,E-Fan,DC Fan Cont,MAC CAI,Alum RAD,MM STB,UPR Shift,HD T5,MM CC plates,MM KMem,MM Tube CA's,Hose Wizard Air, PA 200 Alt & Start,BBK Tall Valve Covers,Detroit Cobra-R 17X9's W/T1R's,Corbeau TRS,Simpson 4 Pts,

Last edited by RiceRocketeer; 09-15-2005 at 01:03 AM.
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post #13 of 13 Old 09-15-2005, 01:34 AM
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I say put it all on ebay. The only thing I would consider keeping would be the Flaming Rivers rack, but only if you want manual steering. I prefer slightly boosted. Then with the money you get, look towards MM and Griggs. The MM Road and Track set would be a good start. If that is too much, then I would get the Starter box with the Chassis box.

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/giab2.asp
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/giab.asp
http://www.maximummotorsports.com/mmcbp.asp

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