00 Cobra R calipers - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 50 Old 07-30-2005, 10:11 PM Thread Starter
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00 Cobra R calipers

Where is the best place to pick up just the calipers (since I'm thinking they should bolt right onto my stocker cobra setup). Whats the best price the calipers are going for nowadays...

thanks in advance


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post #2 of 50 Old 07-30-2005, 11:23 PM
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I have the entire cobra R kit (brembo 13" 4 pistons) with rotors that did not fit with my wheels and cant return so i'm selling them. $900

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post #3 of 50 Old 07-31-2005, 02:14 AM
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sent you a pm about your brakes...
blacksnake305...I have known some friends who have come upon the calipers by chance from people upgrading race car calipers, but don't know anyone who is selling anything other than the complete kit...I would venture a guess that the caliper is the primary expense in the kit so you won't save much over buying the kit...

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post #4 of 50 Old 07-31-2005, 02:43 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jgorm
I have the entire cobra R kit (brembo 13" 4 pistons) with rotors that did not fit with my wheels and cant return so i'm selling them. $900
I wish i had the money right now...

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post #5 of 50 Old 07-31-2005, 08:23 PM
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I thought that the rotors had a different thickness?

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post #6 of 50 Old 07-31-2005, 11:17 PM
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same rotor thickness. The lines are different and you'll want the braided stainless lines that come with the 00R kit. If you plan on running it long enough to need new rotors, there's no waste in getting the full kit.

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post #7 of 50 Old 08-01-2005, 09:21 AM
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Try these guy. Best price I have seen.

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post #8 of 50 Old 08-01-2005, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacksnake305
I wish i had the money right now...

Idea: Sell your brakes to Greg and use the money to finance the 00R brake upgrade.

particularly non-stock 99 Cobra w/brand C motor...
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post #9 of 50 Old 08-01-2005, 08:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serpentnoir
Idea: Sell your brakes to Greg and use the money to finance the 00R brake upgrade.
now thats an idea. Greg is real thrify though, he wouldn't pay much for mine...

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post #10 of 50 Old 08-09-2005, 01:47 PM
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Now that you have done your one track day, you think your brakes need upgrading? The stockers are more than capable for the occasional track day. You just need to make sure you have the correct track pads. Most of the AI guys are using the PBR calipers with aggressive pads with success. At this point, there is really no reason for the expense of the brembo's other than the "bling" factor. Plus, have you checked if they will fit behind your wheels? They require at a minimum 17x9's.


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post #11 of 50 Old 08-09-2005, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jscott1176
Now that you have done your one track day, you think your brakes need upgrading? The stockers are more than capable for the occasional track day. You just need to make sure you have the correct track pads. Most of the AI guys are using the PBR calipers with aggressive pads with success. At this point, there is really no reason for the expense of the brembo's other than the "bling" factor. Plus, have you checked if they will fit behind your wheels? They require at a minimum 17x9's.
Yes sir.

Based on a suggestion from Darius, I simply switched pads to PF-Z rated and I am very impressed. They were more than capable of handling gingerman. And at $70 per set you can't go wrong. I am still running the original 1999 factory rear pads.

particularly non-stock 99 Cobra w/brand C motor...
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post #12 of 50 Old 08-09-2005, 02:21 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jscott1176
Now that you have done your one track day, you think your brakes need upgrading? The stockers are more than capable for the occasional track day. You just need to make sure you have the correct track pads. Most of the AI guys are using the PBR calipers with aggressive pads with success. At this point, there is really no reason for the expense of the brembo's other than the "bling" factor. Plus, have you checked if they will fit behind your wheels? They require at a minimum 17x9's.
I appreciate the conservative approach, but you dont understand that I'm a "Mod-Junkie" And I wouldn't buy the 4-piston calipers for the 'bling' of it. I want the ability to stop hard. If you've seen my car, you would know that I'm a 'model of conservativism' an have no bling items to speak of (with the one exception being the saleen rims). I'm even thinking of unloading the saleen rims because of the weight...

My stockers w/ the hawk HP+ were sufficient, but I was coming in very hot and was experiencing some noticeable brake fade as the day progressed. But it was very very hot out as well.
Yes only one event, but Mid-Ohio is next on the agenda...

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post #13 of 50 Old 08-09-2005, 02:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serpentnoir
Yes sir.

Based on a suggestion from Darius, I simply switched pads to PF-Z rated and I am very impressed. They were more than capable of handling gingerman. And at $70 per set you can't go wrong. I am still running the original 1999 factory rear pads.
Actually, I dont know if people clued you in on that gem of a pad.... they only cost you $70-period. They have a lifetime replacement warranty through Autozone. When they are worn out, take them to Autozoo say they squeal a bit, and you get a new set. Just hang on to your reciepts to make the exchange go smoother. There are quite a few people I know of that are on their 5-6th set now and are only out the original $70.

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post #14 of 50 Old 08-09-2005, 02:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacksnake305
I appreciate the conservative approach, but you dont understand that I'm a "Mod-Junkie" And I wouldn't buy the 4-piston calipers for the 'bling' of it. I want the ability to stop hard. If you've seen my car, you would know that I'm a 'model of conservativism' an have no bling items to speak of (with the one exception being the saleen rims). I'm even thinking of unloading the saleen rims because of the weight...

My stockers w/ the hawk HP+ were sufficient, but I was coming in very hot and was experiencing some noticeable brake fade as the day progressed. But it was very very hot out as well.
Yes only one event, but Mid-Ohio is next on the agenda...
No bling items? What about the brilliant idea you had to cut holes in your hood and install vents? Just messing with ya... Of course I've seen your car, you have my axle.

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post #15 of 50 Old 08-09-2005, 02:33 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jscott1176
No bling items? What about the brilliant idea you had to cut holes in your hood and install vents? Just messing with ya... Of course I've seen your car, you have my axle.
Hey That Hood is Functional!!!.....er....sort of.......i think... I need to tie some strings on those floor vents and see their massive extraction rate... LOL
As far as the brembos are concerned, I will get them, but only if I can do it cheap (that's my motto and i've lived well by it). Besides my motor, I've been pretty frugal w/ my $$$. I'm just exploring the possibilities right now... plus them calipers will be DA SHIZZLE!!!

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post #16 of 50 Old 08-09-2005, 02:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jscott1176
Actually, I dont know if people clued you in on that gem of a pad.... they only cost you $70-period. They have a lifetime replacement warranty through Autozone. When they are worn out, take them to Autozoo say they squeal a bit, and you get a new set. Just hang on to your reciepts to make the exchange go smoother. There are quite a few people I know of that are on their 5-6th set now and are only out the original $70.
Last time I checked they only have a two year warranty.

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post #17 of 50 Old 08-09-2005, 07:38 PM
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I tried finding a set of calipers a few months ago, to no avail. I ended up buying a whole kit for around $800 from ebay, I'm going to pick it up tomorrow. I even had my contact at MM call Brembo for me, no luck.

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post #18 of 50 Old 08-10-2005, 02:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacksnake305
My stockers w/ the hawk HP+ were sufficient, but I was coming in very hot and was experiencing some noticeable brake fade as the day progressed.
Do you have brake cooler ducts?
Also make sure you bleed your system before and after an event.

Just remember that the brake system will only work as well as the tires you have on your car.
If you are running a street tire, then a good pad (PF-Z or others) along with brake coolers, and good fluid should be all that you need.
If you are running a slick or R compound then perhaps you can truly utilize the stopping power of a four pot caliper.

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post #19 of 50 Old 08-10-2005, 08:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fowler86gt
Last time I checked they only have a two year warranty.
Well, even with a 2-yr warranty, its worth it. Plus, doesn't the warranty renew when you get new pads? So essentially it is a lifetime warranty.

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post #20 of 50 Old 08-10-2005, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Craig K.
Do you have brake cooler ducts?
Also make sure you bleed your system before and after an event.

Just remember that the brake system will only work as well as the tires you have on your car.
If you are running a street tire, then a good pad (PF-Z or others) along with brake coolers, and good fluid should be all that you need.
If you are running a slick or R compound then perhaps you can truly utilize the stopping power of a four pot caliper.
Good point, I forgot to ask if Chris was running brake cooling ducts. That would have taken care of your (slight) fading issue even in high ambient temperatures. I would look into getting a set of those before looking into the brembo's. Don't get me wrong the Brembo brakes are awesome, but they just do not justify the added expense for a street car that sees an occasional track day.

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post #21 of 50 Old 08-10-2005, 09:01 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jscott1176
Good point, I forgot to ask if Chris was running brake cooling ducts. That would have taken care of your (slight) fading issue even in high ambient temperatures. I would look into getting a set of those before looking into the brembo's. Don't get me wrong the Brembo brakes are awesome, but they just do not justify the added expense for a street car that sees an occasional track day.
Agreed. I've been convinced. Money is better spent elsewhere. I WILL do the cooling duct mod however. And I doubt I'll be racing in temps as high as we experienced (at gingerman) any time soon.

Topic Change: where is the best place to buy the cooling duct mod?

thanks again all!

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post #22 of 50 Old 08-10-2005, 10:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blacksnake305
Topic Change: where is the best place to buy the cooling duct mod?

Make them yourself. You don't need fancy backing plates, or fancy anything for that matter. Mine and others can be seen here: http://www.opentracking.com/track_brakes.htm
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post #23 of 50 Old 08-10-2005, 10:50 AM
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A few things...

1. PF-Z pads are "ok" for the occasional weekend racer. They have a great get-new-pads every year (I mean warranty). BUT, they are still a STREET+ pad. Nowhere near the capability of a true track duty pad.
Personally, I have had great success with www.cobaltfriction.com Cobalt Friction Spec VR pads.

2. Cooling ducts should be done before you modify pads. If you dont, you'll be burning up you caliper rubber dust boots. Ducting can be found for various configurations for different year Mustangs. Anything from fog lights and dryer vent (I dont recomment) all the way to carbon fiber backing plates.
Sample hose routing:


CF backing:



3. PBR fixed calipers can flex on the nose of the spindle when pushed extremely hard. This will cause them to blue the rotors when extremely pushed and the guide bars actually touch the rotor:


Get them hot enough, and they crack:



Finally, the PBR's just arent up to pushing it at the track time and time again. I didnt get any increase in stopping "force". Big investment to just not worry about fading at all. Installed the Brembos that came from the 2000 Mustang Cobra R:


Here is a professional driver in my car having a good time at GingerMan...

Darius Rudis

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post #24 of 50 Old 08-10-2005, 01:42 PM
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B&D Racing in SoCal makes brake duct kits for our cars. I don't have one, but I'm considering it . . .

http://www.bdracing.net/index2.asp

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post #25 of 50 Old 08-10-2005, 02:27 PM
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Nice pictures Darius, seems like we keep rehashing the same brake tech here - however that is a good thing, there are far more passes made under braking than acceleration. BTW the TCE hats and colemen rotors have three races on them now, holding up quite well.
Suggested brake upgrades:
1. cooling ducts
2. better pads (carbotech)
3. 2 piece rotors

If all of the above does not do it for you, or if you just have more $$ than sense, go out and drop the cash on big money calipers.

Another consideration is weight and suspension, there is far less drama braking now that the weight on my car is redistributed by the MM K-member.

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post #26 of 50 Old 08-10-2005, 02:56 PM
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Please don't forget to bleed your entire brake system before/after an event, this is criticle, along with the cooling ducts.

I had made my cooling ducts from engine intake tubing that I bought from a junk yard, along with good tubing. The intake part is zipped tied to the spindle, very simple, very cheap, and had lasted for 4 years of W2W, until the car went into storage. Don't forget to direct the air into the center of the rotor so it can be pumped through the rotor vains and evenly cool both sides of the rotor.

Also as said in the last post, try and reduce your wieght, especially on the front end. Weight reduction should be the first thing you do, it takes less H.P. and less braking to move and stop less weight.

Also instead of spending the $800-$1000 on the Brembo's, use it to entire more tack days and get more seat time. Until you have a lot of seat time, you won't really be pushing your car to it's most extreme limits.

Good luck!

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Make them yourself. You don't need fancy backing plates, or fancy anything for that matter. Mine and others can be seen here: http://www.opentracking.com/track_brakes.htm
Good info Darius. I actually am working on a plan to do a writeup for this product CLICKY (the brake ducts are in front of the wheel)(and I would not be using rivets. lol). They have agreed to give me the complete kit at cost, test and writup the product. I'm considering it... I'm sure some of you have seen this product before. Opinions?

I like the website MFE...

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post #28 of 50 Old 08-10-2005, 03:04 PM
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I think that in theroy the best place for the brake air duct intake should be right in front of the car, actually the best place is in the center of the bumper, a friend and I had proven this to ourselves many years ago using an airflow meter and moving the meter around different points on the front of the car.

My car being an '85, I removed the front turn signal lights and mounted the intakes there, rightn in the center of the bumper. Grant it that this is a track only car so I don't need the turn signals, besides they wiegh too much anyhow.

On a street car I would remove the fog lamps and mount them there, or below the front bumper. If you only track it occasionally make them easy to install/remove so you don't damage them on the street.

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Quote:
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I think that in theroy the best place for the brake air duct intake should be right in front of the car, actually the best place is in the center of the bumper, a friend and I had proven this to ourselves many years ago using an airflow meter and moving the meter around different points on the front of the car.

My car being an '85, I removed the front turn signal lights and mounted the intakes there, rightn in the center of the bumper. Grant it that this is a track only car so I don't need the turn signals, besides they wiegh too much anyhow.

On a street car I would remove the fog lamps and mount them there, or below the front bumper. If you only track it occasionally make them easy to install/remove so you don't damage them on the street.

The engineer responsible for the design states that the air in the front of the car is 'hotter' than desired. He also claims that relocating to the side eliminates the possibility of catching debris. The intake tracts in the picture have nets within them as well. My problem is that i'm currently using my left front air duct for my homemade ram air. I dont want to change that since its worked well. I'm not so sure the side ducting will flow as much air, although it may actually be cooler... things to think about for sure...

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post #30 of 50 Old 08-10-2005, 04:36 PM
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Seen the product on a (ahem) Camaro:
http://home.earthlink.net/~jonaa/Brakeducts.html

It LOOKS nice, not sure how much air you get as it swooshes past the NACA duct...
Front airdam is where I get mine, fed into the 3" hoses.

Your car looks clean, and IMOHO, I would take the company up on the offer. Try their product, get some ifrared surface temp guns on it, and see before/after effects. I would really start with bone stock (rain dust shield in place) as I [personally] would like to see delta in with/withou stock shield in place. Adding _any_ kind of ducting will improve, and you'll be able to show that.
Go for it.

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post #31 of 50 Old 08-10-2005, 04:59 PM
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My problem with that design is I highly doubt that's a high-pressure area, being as it's in the "wake" area of air being pushed off and around the front of the car. If that's the case you'd be far better off with ducts in the front of the car...furhtermore the only significant temperature difference between various positions is going to be related to how close they are to the track, the closer the hotter on a sunny/hot day. I could be wrong about the pressure zones but I'd be leery of cuttting up a fascia to put them there until I saw some aero study.

EDIT: Now that I see a frontal view based on JonA's ducts, it looks more like those would actually be able to scoop air. If the ones on the mustang present themseves to the frontal area the same way, then they're probably quite functional IMHO.

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post #32 of 50 Old 08-11-2005, 09:27 AM
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Nothing to really add to this thread, other than just "show off" my new rotors...





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Quote:
Originally Posted by drudis
Nothing to really add to this thread, other than just "show off" my new rotors...






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post #34 of 50 Old 08-11-2005, 12:28 PM
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Hey those look familiar!
You will like those, lighter weight helps too.

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post #35 of 50 Old 08-23-2005, 02:28 AM
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I'm a bit late to this thread, but you can just zip ty the flex hose to the corners of the lower air intake on the front end on an LX. A few ties and an aluminum bracket with sheet metal screws to aim the air at the center of the rotor is all it takes. It will work - at least enough to convince you to cut some holes in the front of your car!

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