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F*#!ing A-Arm Bolts!!!

471 views 3 replies 3 participants last post by  carrew 
#1 ·
I began installing my FRPP A-arms this weekend, and I planned to remove the springs using the "MFE method" of pulling the spring out of the "inside". This method is great, as it saves the hassle of messing with spring compressors. HOWEVER, there is a "catch", and something you folks in "road salt" areas should consider.

My car is by no means a "rust bucket", but I had one hell of a time removing the front A-arm bolts. It seems that the bolt and the inner sleeve of the A-arm bushing had rusted together, making it damn hard to get the bolt out. I struggled with this for 3 hours. Given the position of the bolt, it is hard to get a good swing to hammer it through the bushing. I ended up moving it a bit with a big sledge, and I had to use a tie rod fork under the bolt head to hammer and pry it all of the way out (I plan to replace the bolts anyway).

Does anyone have a better way to remove these bolts? This job would have been a piece of cake had I not run into this problem.
 
#2 ·
I have resorted to an electric impact wrench to spin them while pushing/prying on the other end. Also done the same thing you did, with a roofing bar under the lip of the bolt. You also have to make sure you're not loading it accidentally.

Sorry it's being a PITA for you.
 
#3 ·
I tried the impact gun method, but eventually, the whole sleeve started spinning in the rubber.

The worst part? I got one side all apart, and found that 1/2 of the lower coil on my front spring was broken. Since I did not have springs on hand, I ended up reassembling all the old parts so I could drive the car. :mad:

Oh well... at least I know ONE side will be easy when the springs come in and I do it all over again. :)

Man, it is SO EASY to install springs from the inside, compared to dealing with spring compressors. I'd never do it any other way. Thanks for the tip!
 
#4 ·
1 tool

Sawzall

Just don't cut the k-member in the process. Funny isn't metal bolt and melt bushing rusting together, because of 10 years of road salt, rain, moisture, etc. Rear LCA's do the same thing also. You will notice that bolts on the passenger side are more rusted than the drivers side. The only thing I can assume is because you go thru more water next to curbs because of road crown. FYI rear LCA 10.9 grade bolts are no longer available at ford.
 
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