Anyone running MM-kmember with FFRP M6675DRS302 oil pan - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 30 Old 12-15-2017, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone running MM-kmember with FFRP M6675DRS302 oil pan

I'm looking to use FFRP-M6675DRS302 pan on my new motor and was wondering if anyone has used it with a MM-kmember with the 1 inch set back on the motor.

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post #2 of 30 Old 12-15-2017, 11:24 PM
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I called MM about a week ago and the answer was no on the 1" setback but ok on the stock position.

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post #3 of 30 Old 12-16-2017, 01:33 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks I was hoping to set the motor back but I figured it would take mods to the pan to make it work. The other part I was wondering about is if it hangs to low since the rear sump so deep. I read a few places that said its fine but I guess we will find out.
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post #4 of 30 Old 12-16-2017, 08:13 AM
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I looked into this also. It also requires shortening the driveshaft and modifying the trans crossmember mount holes. And clearancing the trans tunnel. The headers may also not clear the firewall. After reviewing MM's instructions I'm thinking the oil pan may not work at all. In one of the pictures in the instructions of the k-member brace it looks as if it would not clear a deep sump oil pan even with the k-member brace spacers.
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post #5 of 30 Old 12-16-2017, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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i know there is benefit to moving the engine back but it sounds like its more work then its worth. Maybe one day I will try to make it work but for now I think the engine will stay where it is. I'm still going to use the FFRP pan heard it was the best for road racing and autocross so I'm going to give it a try with my new 347 I'm building.
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post #6 of 30 Old 12-16-2017, 12:01 PM
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That's good news that it's recommended for road racing. When are you doing the k-member install? Please post back how it goes. I won't get to mine for about a month..... And I can tell you that my 347 is FUN on the track.!
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post #7 of 30 Old 12-16-2017, 12:40 PM Thread Starter
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The kmember is in the car already. I've had it for years I was one of the first to buy it when it came out. I was running a Canton road race pan on the car for a long time but had some oiling issues during braking and cornering especially during autocross when the course went down hill into an off camber. I want to make sure I make sure to do it right this time and from my research Jack with MM says its the best for road racing so I'm going to give it a shot. I'm in the same boat as you mine isn't going to be in the car for some time. I bought the new motor from Jim at fordstrokers in pieces so I still need to assemble it which I hope to start in the beginning of the year. You can see my build here in the members build section.

https://forums.corral.net/forums/memb...ain-build.html
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post #8 of 30 Old 12-16-2017, 01:16 PM
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Ah. Yes. I've seen that thread. I just went to the garage and stared at my setup and now I'm more worried about the headers than the pan. At least the drivers side. The passenger side is fine.
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post #9 of 30 Old 12-16-2017, 01:44 PM Thread Starter
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I run shorty headers on my car so I don't have that problem would love to run long tube but they don't have smog legal ones. Do you have the kmember yet or still waiting on it? Does it look like the pan is going to hang down below the kmember?
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post #10 of 30 Old 12-16-2017, 02:46 PM
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I haven't ordered it yet. I'm planning on buying MM's 3/4" forward k-member kit with coilovers etc. I'm waiting for a response from their tech dept for spring rate recommendation etc. On my old UPR k-member the pan was below the k-member and there was plenty of room for headers etc. But the MM one looks quite different. If my headers don't clear I'm screwed. I've got the engine hanging from the headers now. Here's a pic before disassembly.

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post #11 of 30 Old 12-16-2017, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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When I autocross the car I ran 325lb front springs when I road raced it I ran 425lb springs. The tires were 275/40 17 v710 kumho which were the best at the time. This was with a stock front sway bar. I'm planning on running the MM front sway bar this time which is not as stiff. If I had some good pictures of the header area on my car I would post them for you so you can take a look.
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post #12 of 30 Old 01-07-2018, 04:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Hammer Down View Post
Ah. Yes. I've seen that thread. I just went to the garage and stared at my setup and now I'm more worried about the headers than the pan. At least the drivers side. The passenger side is fine.
Pan-to-K member clearance is all in the combination. If Jack H. says the FRPP pan will clear their K, then that's solid information.
I did a lot more fabrication than I wanted to just to get everything to fit in the car. The MM K brace won't clean my particular pan, so I'll be getting one made.
This pan should be fine with long tubes. The T-sump pans don't mix well with long tubes.

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post #13 of 30 Old 01-17-2018, 10:38 AM
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I had one of those pans in an SN95 with MM K-member. Had to space the two point brace even further than all of the spacers that came with it (iirc, an additional quarter inch or so). I also bought longer bolts so I had full thread engagement.

Very nice pan, looks good, and performed well. Does leave that brace hanging low though. Also, because the front of the pan is square, my stock sway bar wouldn't work, had to use a mod motor style of bar.

Jay
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post #14 of 30 Old 01-17-2018, 11:42 AM Thread Starter
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I had one of those pans in an SN95 with MM K-member. Had to space the two point brace even further than all of the spacers that came with it (iirc, an additional quarter inch or so). I also bought longer bolts so I had full thread engagement.

Very nice pan, looks good, and performed well. Does leave that brace hanging low though. Also, because the front of the pan is square, my stock sway bar wouldn't work, had to use a mod motor style of bar.

Jay
Good to know I was wondering if it would clear the k-member brace. I have the MM sway bar relocation kit with there front sway bar so hopefully it clears.
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post #15 of 30 Old 01-17-2018, 07:04 PM
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Good to know I was wondering if it would clear the k-member brace. I have the MM sway bar relocation kit with there front sway bar so hopefully it clears.
The stock swaybar on my fox fit without issues. I do use the MM relocation brackets on it though.

On my 95 I had to use a spacer under the stock brackets to clear. I use a stock swaybar on this car in stock location. I forget how thick a spacer I had to use.

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post #16 of 30 Old 01-21-2018, 01:54 PM
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I have the canton road race pan and MM k-member. The pan clears the k-member brace by maybe half an inch, and that is with all the spacers MM includes. MM makes a brace designed to clear deep pans, but they don't list it as an option when you buy the k-member.
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post #17 of 30 Old 01-27-2018, 09:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stew_Magoo View Post
I have the canton road race pan and MM k-member. The pan clears the k-member brace by maybe half an inch, and that is with all the spacers MM includes. MM makes a brace designed to clear deep pans, but they don't list it as an option when you buy the k-member.


Where did you find this sir ? So this will allow people to run any deep sump pans without issues ?


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post #18 of 30 Old 01-28-2018, 03:31 AM
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Where did you find this sir ? So this will allow people to run any deep sump pans without issues ?


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2-point brace for MM modular engine K-member, fits Canton pan
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post #19 of 30 Old 01-28-2018, 09:18 AM
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Thanks dude! But thatís for the modular/swapped engine k members. Unless it will fit with the ones intended for our cars ?


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post #20 of 30 Old 01-28-2018, 11:03 AM
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I knew that. I just wanted to see if you knew that.


lol! Oops!

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post #21 of 30 Old 01-28-2018, 05:41 PM
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So MM claims the Ford Racing pan will clear their member?


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post #22 of 30 Old 05-22-2018, 03:48 PM Thread Starter
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So I thought I would post some pictures up of the install of the FFRP oil pan with the MM K-member. When first did the install I was running MM solid motor mounts in the car. I ran into an issue that the rear sump of the pan was coming really close to the K-member. I had solid motor mounts in the car before that seemed to me set the motor lower and a bit further back then the MM motor mounts so I swapped in my old mounts and it did move the engine about 1/4 back and down. Which gave me the clearance you can see in the picture below.



When I had the MM motor mounts install I had to run the steering rack in the middle holes when I switched to my old solid motor mounts I had to move the rack down a bit more. I have plenty of clearance from the steering rack to the front sump of the pan which would make moving the engine back an inch possible with about 1/4 inch of clearance. Since I have the clearance between the rack and the pan Iím looking at moving the engine back an inch. The picture below doesn't show how much room there is really well. But after measuring I would have about a 1/4 inch of clearance between the pan and steering rack.



I have run into some unrelated issues with my transmission cross member and the way the engine is sitting in the car. As you can see I have about a 1/2 inch gap between the transmission mount and the cross member. I made sure the motor mounts were fully seated in the K-member. The picture below shows the gap it has with the transmission unsupported. This caused the gap I had before to close up and the pan hit the K-member.



Iím currently looking at moving the engine back an inch to get more clearance between the pan and the K-member and Iím also look at adding the MM 1/4 inch spacers between the K-member and frame to get the drivetrain closer to the mount.
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post #23 of 30 Old 05-22-2018, 10:44 PM
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For reference, I use this pan with a Griggs K. I had to move the engine back an inch. I move the trans mount back an inch and shortened the driveshaft an inch to make it all work.


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post #24 of 30 Old 05-23-2018, 09:21 AM Thread Starter
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For reference, I use this pan with a Griggs K. I had to move the engine back an inch. I move the trans mount back an inch and shortened the driveshaft an inch to make it all work.


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I had to do the same I moved the engine back an inch last night and everything fit fine.
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post #25 of 30 Old 05-23-2018, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Here's some pictures of everything after I set the motor back an inch.

Here's the oil pan clearance to the k-member.





Here's a picture of the oil pan to steering rack clearance.



This is the clearance from the firewall to the motor.



So for me the 1 inch setback was a must it wouldn't have fit any other way. It also fixed a problem I didn't even know I had yet between the header and the MM steering shaft. If anyone would like more pictures of how the motor sits in the car and different clearances let me know. Just for reference I'm using a early MM k-member with there motor mounts and a Dart SHP block.
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post #26 of 30 Old 05-24-2018, 07:43 AM
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MM K
Canton Road Race pan
1 inch setback


no issues

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post #27 of 30 Old 05-24-2018, 09:25 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by EscortSportage View Post
MM K
Canton Road Race pan
1 inch setback


no issues
Did you have to shorten your driveshaft or did you replace it? I'm looking at replacing mine since its the original driveshaft that came with the car. I figured now would be a good time to swap it with a aluminum driveshaft.
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post #28 of 30 Old 05-29-2018, 06:29 AM
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Did you have to shorten your driveshaft or did you replace it? I'm looking at replacing mine since its the original driveshaft that came with the car. I figured now would be a good time to swap it with a aluminum driveshaft.

Didnt have to do anything, im using the FRPP aluminum shaft and apparently there was enough room, i thought i was needed to shorten the shaft 1 inch but surprisingly i didnt.

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post #29 of 30 Old 05-31-2018, 04:20 PM
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Did you have to shorten your driveshaft or did you replace it? I'm looking at replacing mine since its the original driveshaft that came with the car. I figured now would be a good time to swap it with a aluminum driveshaft.
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Didnt have to do anything, im using the FRPP aluminum shaft and apparently there was enough room, i thought i was needed to shorten the shaft 1 inch but surprisingly i didnt.
You'll need to compare transmissions as well. A T5 is an inch longer than a TKO from bell housing mount to rear seal.
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post #30 of 30 Old 06-01-2018, 07:04 AM
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You'll need to compare transmissions as well. A T5 is an inch longer than a TKO from bell housing mount to rear seal.
Im on a stock T5 as well.

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