New here 94 cobra suspension on a budget - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 15 Old 09-15-2017, 12:41 AM Thread Starter
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New here 94 cobra suspension on a budget

What suspension is the best bang for your buck looking to get good handling was looking at maximum motorsports suspension kits but they're expensive any recommendations?(still considering mm). Cars been sitting a while just bought it looking to take some turns also needs a brake job what rotors pads?

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post #2 of 15 Old 09-15-2017, 12:44 AM Thread Starter
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post #3 of 15 Old 09-15-2017, 08:12 AM
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What's your objective and intended use for the car?

2003 mach1 with MM R&T box with TA, 2000 R brakes and lots of other bits and pieces here and there.
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post #4 of 15 Old 09-15-2017, 10:17 AM Thread Starter
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What's your objective and intended use for the car?
Street use mild strip and reducing body roll and the rear end from coming out I mean I'd love to road race it not a HUGE fan of drag still will tree up tho

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post #5 of 15 Old 09-15-2017, 01:27 PM
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First get the chassis braced up with sub frame connectors, lower engine cradle brace and maybe a strut tower brace. Then it will be time to talk suspension.

2003 mach1 with MM R&T box with TA, 2000 R brakes and lots of other bits and pieces here and there.
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post #6 of 15 Old 09-15-2017, 03:31 PM Thread Starter
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First get the chassis braced up with sub frame connectors, lower engine cradle brace and maybe a strut tower brace. Then it will be time to talk suspension.
Is there a kit Its been sitting needs struts or coilovers now

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post #7 of 15 Old 09-15-2017, 03:41 PM
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IMHO strut tower braces are only useful on convertibles...I wouldn't waste money putting one on a coupe.
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post #8 of 15 Old 09-16-2017, 01:09 AM Thread Starter
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IMHO strut tower braces are only useful on convertibles...I wouldn't waste money putting one on a coupe.
Thank you one less thing I need everyone on this forum knows allot about these cars I'm so excited to learn more

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post #9 of 15 Old 09-16-2017, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Anyone run a decent suspension on these sn95 5.0s?

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post #10 of 15 Old 09-17-2017, 08:47 PM
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Best I could tell you is get all your stuff second hand. Lots of people sell off decent parts in the quest to go faster with parts vs experience. So they will buy a nice coil over kit and sell a nice set of H&R springs and some good shocks and struts for really cheap. I can tell you from experience that coil overs don't make that big a difference so don't worry about buying the latest greatest part. I would also do a single part or two at a time and see how it makes the car perform, unless you go with a pre engineered kit from like Steeda or MM.


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post #11 of 15 Old 09-19-2017, 10:33 AM
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I would start with buying some periods.

Then sell off the dubs and get some good, light 18s.

'89 GT convertible, N/A 357W, MM front susp w/425# coil-overs and Koni D/As, MM TA/PB rear setup (Koni Yellows, 390-430# springs), Stoptech 332mm / 12" Baers, MM 6 point rollbar, Maier 1.5" flared fenders & quarters, 18x9.5" front/18x10.5" rear Enkei RPF-1s (street), 18x10" CCW C-10s (track), etc...
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post #12 of 15 Old 09-24-2017, 10:28 AM
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For ride quality and cornering you need to reduce suspension bind. The worst offender on these cars is the rear suspension. That's not to say reducing bind up front won't help, but the rear suspension is at best a CF compromise and at worst a demon nightmare. With that said, piecing a suspension together in order to stay within a reasonable budget is going to be tough. Most of us start with springs and struts/shocks. But in my experience, trying to stay in budget generally means the cheapest springs, and marginal struts/shocks. This generally results in disappointment.

For an entry level strut/shock, I recommend Bilstein HDs. New, these are more expensive than say a Koni STR.T but are a very good foundation for just about any upgrade you may want in the future, including C/Os. Bil HDs also control a wide range of spring rates that you may wish to try, meaning you won't get a mismatch. You will still have bind because you haven't addressed anything like the control-arm bushings. However, once you get into those pieces, the budget can get out of control in a hurry since some parts should be purchased together. You will need to decide how far you want to go but in any case, focus on reducing bind. The Bils will do their job much better once the bind is gone or at least substantially reduced.
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post #13 of 15 Old 09-25-2017, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
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I would start with buying some periods.

Then sell off the dubs and get some good, light 18s.
lol

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post #14 of 15 Old 09-25-2017, 09:20 PM
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Maximum motorsports. All you could ever want to know. Well, kinda. Making lap times cost money. If its for the street, drive it and be happy. Just my opinion.

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post #15 of 15 Old 10-01-2017, 02:54 PM
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Id start with:

Full lenght subframe connectors
Rear lower control arms (MM or J&M)
Bilsteins struts/shocks
H&R springs

You can procure most of this used in classifieds section without breaking the bank.... make sure that all your steering components are in good shape and you should have a very nice daily driver...

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