Front end alignment - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 13 Old 08-27-2017, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Front end alignment

What is the best method for setting toe? And when I do an alignment, is this the proper order. 1)caster, 2)camber 3)toe?

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post #2 of 13 Old 08-27-2017, 04:01 PM
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It kind of depends what you are doing. THe easiest method (IMO) for Toe is Toe plates, but if the car is way out you really don't have a way to sqaure the front with the back with plates and you need strings.

Yes on the order.

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post #3 of 13 Old 08-27-2017, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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I set the caster to the maximum positive setting.Then I set the camber to the most negative setting. I could only get -2.5 degrees camber on both sides. Does this maximum camber setting sound correct for a fox with caster camber plates?
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post #4 of 13 Old 08-28-2017, 12:20 PM
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Quote:
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I set the caster to the maximum positive setting.Then I set the camber to the most negative setting. I could only get -2.5 degrees camber on both sides. Does this maximum camber setting sound correct for a fox with caster camber plates?
That's all I could get on my mach1.

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post #5 of 13 Old 08-31-2017, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
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I set the caster to the maximum positive setting.Then I set the camber to the most negative setting. I could only get -2.5 degrees camber on both sides. Does this maximum camber setting sound correct for a fox with caster camber plates?
Depends on which C/C plates, ride height, and control arms.

I know with the MM ones, it's possible to install them on the wrong sides of the car and thus lose adjustment range. A shop did that to me, and when they gave me an alignment sheet that showed way too little positive caster I pointed out their boo-boo and they had to re-do some work.

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post #6 of 13 Old 08-31-2017, 09:15 PM
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Quote:
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I set the caster to the maximum positive setting.Then I set the camber to the most negative setting. I could only get -2.5 degrees camber on both sides. Does this maximum camber setting sound correct for a fox with caster camber plates?
I had to open up the bolt holes in the shock tower to get the camber I needed.

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post #7 of 13 Old 09-01-2017, 07:47 AM Thread Starter
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The plates are UPR. The driver side is nearly touching the MC reservoir so that's all I'm going to get. One alarming fact I'd like to warn people of is I had an issue with both front brake lines after adjusting for max caster and -2.5 caster. I have coilovers and the spring was contacting the brake line while turning where it is perched on the frame. I had to move those perches back about 2-3" to get clearance.
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post #8 of 13 Old 09-01-2017, 09:47 PM
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^^^ Got any pics to show what you're talking about? I'm having a hard time visualizing where there would be interference like that.
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post #9 of 13 Old 09-02-2017, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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post #10 of 13 Old 09-02-2017, 11:26 AM
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Go look at the coilover kit instructions on the MM site (try http://www.maximummotorsports.com/As...p/MMCO-1r3.pdf ) ...scroll to the bottom, they tell you how to relocate that bracket.

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post #11 of 13 Old 09-02-2017, 02:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks. I Just moved them back a few inches and redrilled the frame. There was enough play in the brake lines.
Back to my alignment. I actually got very close on the toe with my homemade 1x4 caliper that I copied of MFE on one of the threads here but I took it to the shop for an alignment anyway to double check. I was shooting for zero toe. Here is the before and after specs. I do have a slight pull to the left. Which side do I take caster out of to correct or should I just leave it alone. I did notice with zero toe that it takes more driver correction to keep straight, nothing major though.
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post #12 of 13 Old 09-02-2017, 02:51 PM Thread Starter
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post #13 of 13 Old 09-06-2017, 07:50 PM
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Max achievable camber is also affected by how much caster you have dialed in. The more caster you have, the less camber you'll be able to get before the strut hits the hole in the tower.
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