Budget Road racing brakes - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 02-15-2017, 07:17 PM Thread Starter
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Budget Road racing brakes

I have been working for years to make my 95 GT as fast as possible. Well i crossed the line from fast to insanely expensive.

I converted from turbo back to na
converted to a 17x9.5 square setup with lighter wheels and nitto 275 40 17s

How many track days can you get on set of those?

when it comes to brake pads i need a cheaper option if possible
i run 13" 2000 cobra r. with auto zone rotors.
carbo tech xp12 front which are about 230 for front pads they were only lasting 2 days with 770whp. how long will the last with 370? or should i change brands?

Any advice would be appreciated thanks
Jay

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post #2 of 27 Old 02-15-2017, 11:17 PM
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Swap out the Carbotech's for Raybestos ST47's, profit.

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post #3 of 27 Old 02-15-2017, 11:46 PM
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770 WHP? Wow! you don't have problems with fade? How quick do you go through rotors?

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post #4 of 27 Old 02-16-2017, 11:47 AM
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i am amazed by the amount of threads on here about guys blowing through pads.

ive always ran hawks, and whether it was on a 3750 lb Stage 3 roush with 420rwhp or a 2900 lb fully prepped race car making the same power i have done 4-8 events (2 days of 4+ sessions) and never blown through pads like some guys do on here. both running a 355mm rotor and 4 piston alcon or stoptech calipers

i know they are the latest and greatest thing everyone is raving about but im curious to how people go through pads so fast. unless its just the type of pad? are those a high bite pad? or long life/wear? i dont know much about them

heck, granted my car is lighter, but on the same set of DTC 60 hawk pads i ran the following events this year
Watkins glen in april- 9 or so 30 minute sessions
NJMP- nasa school and 2 race days
mid-ohio-2 race days doing both AIX and TT - so 12 sessions?
watkins glen championship weekend

and im probably still around 1/2 pad life if i had to take a guess-

maybe its your driving style? not trying to point fingers or anything- im just trying to get some info if you do a #### ton of braking before corners or late brake or what?

Mike
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post #5 of 27 Old 02-16-2017, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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The carbotech pads are great just expensive.

It was insanely expensive with 770whp in a 3400 lbs w Driver. The brakes were to small for that kind of power. The rotors would crack after 2 track days.

One track day or 2 days of track, the front set of pads were gone, all 4 nt01s would be toasted. And only brake fuild i could use was castrol srf 85bucks a quart.

So now im Na and guessing about 3250 w driver and guessing 370whp.
was running 17x9 17x10.5 before now
enkei rpf1 17x9.5 square.

I want to run at 4 tracks days hoping one set of nt01 and one set of front pads can do that. would be huge savings Just was curious if that was realistic expectations

Thanks
Jay
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post #6 of 27 Old 02-16-2017, 01:44 PM
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I have gotten a lot of people switched over to the Raybestos ST47s on both ends.

2003 mach1 with MM R&T box with TA, 2000 R brakes and lots of other bits and pieces here and there.
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post #7 of 27 Old 02-16-2017, 01:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaysch302 View Post
The carbotech pads are great just expensive.

It was insanely expensive with 770whp in a 3400 lbs w Driver. The brakes were to small for that kind of power. The rotors would crack after 2 track days.

One track day or 2 days of track, the front set of pads were gone, all 4 nt01s would be toasted. And only brake fuild i could use was castrol srf 85bucks a quart.

So now im Na and guessing about 3250 w driver and guessing 370whp.
was running 17x9 17x10.5 before now
enkei rpf1 17x9.5 square.

I want to run at 4 tracks days hoping one set of nt01 and one set of front pads can do that. would be huge savings Just was curious if that was realistic expectations

Thanks
Jay
have you ever tracked your car before it had 770 hp? what was the pad/tire life like then? i feel like you had to be WOT out of the corner and mashing the brakes before the next one to go through stuff that fast. and when you say the tires are toasted, like no tread left or what?
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post #8 of 27 Old 02-16-2017, 02:36 PM Thread Starter
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only one time when it had 315 whp on ran one track day. back in 08 it was all messed up though wrong gear and supercharger cam was not a good test
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post #9 of 27 Old 02-16-2017, 02:41 PM
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nt01's last 1-2 track days?? Jesus that's crazy, I want to get into this but between decent brake setup and tires that wear that fast how can anyone afford to do this
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post #10 of 27 Old 02-16-2017, 02:59 PM
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nt01's last 1-2 track days?? Jesus that's crazy, I want to get into this but between decent brake setup and tires that wear that fast how can anyone afford to do this
most people get 20-30 heat cycles on their tires before they are getting low to the point of cording. ive ran Toyo R888s, hankook C91's, continental slicks, pirelli slicks, hoosier slicks, all have lasted me about the same life.

driving style has a lot to do with wear and tear on parts also.

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post #11 of 27 Old 02-16-2017, 04:34 PM
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makes total sense. Wish there was a way to go 5 lug cobra brakes on the cheap but not confident in used parts or anything. Going to replace everything down to brake lines so all is new and "should" be good to go. Just gotta break in new motor before dumping thousands into brakes/wheels/tires.
sorry to hijack thread.
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post #12 of 27 Old 02-16-2017, 11:49 PM
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I've abused the hell out of my '98 Cobra brakes on my '92; picked up the whole kit and kaboodle for $500 years and years ago. I wouldn't be too scared of used stuff; either the pistons move or they don't.
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post #13 of 27 Old 02-28-2017, 01:21 PM
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Swap out the Carbotech's for Raybestos ST47's, profit.
This.
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post #14 of 27 Old 02-28-2017, 11:19 PM Thread Starter
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i need to buy some raybesto st 47s for 2000 cobra r brakes where are u guy buying these from and whats the part number thanks
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post #15 of 27 Old 03-01-2017, 08:19 AM
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i need to buy some raybesto st 47s for 2000 cobra r brakes where are u guy buying these from and whats the part number thanks
Call Jake at Randall Race Parts (704)658-0071 and tell him Rick Kirby sent you. He'll know the #. I believe it's 592.

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post #16 of 27 Old 03-01-2017, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks!!!
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post #17 of 27 Old 03-03-2017, 07:16 PM
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We have gotten 30 hours out of Hawk Blue in 36 hour endurance road courses, so that's solid, non stop racing, coming down from 156MPH to enter turns. Nitto NT05 tires lasted about 26 hours. Setup was 2800# '86 GT, S198 spindles, 2000 Cobra 13" rotors for $40, replaced for free under warranty for a couple years, $40 C5 Corvette calipers and adaptor. Works great and cheap. The adaptor we used was from Baer, but I think if you buy the C5 caliper with stock adaptor, it will bolt up with a little hole elongation or enlargement. We learned about that from this:
https://buckeyestangs.com/xenforo/in...e.35468/page-2
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post #18 of 27 Old 03-04-2017, 08:13 PM
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Not familiar with any of the pads mentioned but sounds to me like you need better brake cooling or a different driving style.

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post #19 of 27 Old 03-04-2017, 08:25 PM Thread Starter
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or maybe 770whp with 13" rotors????
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post #20 of 27 Old 03-06-2017, 11:52 AM
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or maybe 770whp with 13" rotors????
what does hp have anything to do with it? slowing down x amount of lbs is a far bigger factor than if you have 500 or 1000 hp.

and back to your original dilemma. i would hope you are using brake ducts?
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post #21 of 27 Old 03-06-2017, 02:34 PM
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what does hp have anything to do with it? slowing down x amount of lbs is a far bigger factor than if you have 500 or 1000 hp.

and back to your original dilemma. i would hope you are using brake ducts?
Speeds are higher so it takes more to slow it down compared to my 300 hp.

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post #22 of 27 Old 03-07-2017, 07:03 PM
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Wish there was a way to go 5 lug cobra brakes on the cheap but not confident in used parts or anything.
New or rebuilt parts do not guarantee defect free. Besides, I put 180K on my 01 Cobra and the mechanicals were fine. Do need to pay attention to pad and rotor selection. The big issue with the PBR caliper is clam-shelling. You can check that before purchase.
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post #23 of 27 Old 03-08-2017, 07:35 AM
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Speeds are higher so it takes more to slow it down compared to my 300 hp.
And the time between consecutive braking events is less, so there's less cooling time available to dump the even greater amounts of heat.


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post #24 of 27 Old 03-08-2017, 10:15 PM
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Add in that jaysch302's car probably isn't anywhere near as light as a 2800# '86 GT dedicated race car.

'89 GT convertible, N/A 357W, MM front susp w/425# coil-overs and Koni D/As, MM TA/PB rear setup (Koni Yellows, 390-430# springs), Stoptech 332mm / 12" Baers, MM 6 point rollbar, Maier 1.5" flared fenders & quarters, 18x9.5" front/18x10.5" rear Enkei RPF-1s (street), 18x10" CCW C-10s (track), etc...
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post #25 of 27 Old 03-09-2017, 06:27 AM Thread Starter
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the blurr and norm are exactly right.
my sn95 is about 3350lbs with turbo, na weight is 3150.
Trying to stop it with the turbo was crazy hitting speeds of 190+ mph at some tracks I would have to brake so early to get it slowed down. I tracked my stock 2012 gt and c7 and never had a problem.
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post #26 of 27 Old 03-09-2017, 06:31 AM Thread Starter
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those raybesto st47 stop so much stronger than carbotech xp12. it will take more feet control to not lock the tire on nt01s
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post #27 of 27 Old 03-09-2017, 07:16 AM
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those raybesto st47 stop so much stronger than carbotech xp12. it will take more feet control to not lock the tire on nt01s
Once you get accustomed to them you will never look back. I use them on both ends. They are the only pad I have used that will stay under me.

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