How to get a response from Maximum Motorsports - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 12-17-2016, 06:39 PM Thread Starter
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How to get a response from Maximum Motorsports

I've sent an email on October 30, Called on December 6, and another email on Dec 6 trying to find out what rear swaybar diameter and spring rate I need for the Torque Arm and have yet to get a reply.. I've used nothing but MM parts on my car, and have gone so far as to get a local shop to become a dealer, yet here I am, waiting over 6 weeks for a minute of their time. Now its too ####ing late for me to change the rear springs and swaybar while I have the car apart. If there were another easy alternative, I would have already taken my business there.


95 Crystal White Cobra #702
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post #2 of 11 Old 12-17-2016, 07:41 PM
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They need to respond so you can suck their dicks...........just kidding....LOL

Strange as I have spoke and emailed them before without issue several times. I have almost all of their suspension components.

Good luck and sorry!

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post #3 of 11 Old 12-18-2016, 10:10 AM
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That's unusual, they've been pretty good about getting back to me. I'd say trying calling again, instead of e-mailing, if for some reason your e-mail address is getting caught in their spam filters. They might not even know. I occasionally have to log into my server and root through the junk folders to make sure that hasn't happened.

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post #4 of 11 Old 12-18-2016, 10:51 AM
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That's really unusual they've always been there when I needed them. One of their top guys Jack Hidley is a member here I'm sure he'll step in.
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post #5 of 11 Old 12-18-2016, 05:06 PM
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I agree I've emailed many times and got quick replies. Never tried calling tho. Make sure the emails aren't ending up in your junk mail. I've had that issue with some companies emails.
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post #6 of 11 Old 12-18-2016, 08:22 PM
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Mr. Whidden,

I understand that you are frustrated, and that it is easy to make comments that you later regret as a result.

Have one of the moderators edit the title of this thread or if necessary, delete the entire thread.

After that is done, I'll be glad to address your concerns.
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post #7 of 11 Old 12-18-2016, 08:37 PM
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Sounds fair enough to me...

Try & be the person your dog thinks you are...
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post #8 of 11 Old 12-19-2016, 10:15 AM
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I love MM parts and I'll always be a customer, but I too sent them an e-mail in September and never got a response. I figured the problem out on my own and I was sure I could get in contact with Jack if need-be. Woulda been nice to get that e-mail though.
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post #9 of 11 Old 12-19-2016, 04:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack Hidley View Post
Mr. Whidden,

I understand that you are frustrated, and that it is easy to make comments that you later regret as a result.

Have one of the moderators edit the title of this thread or if necessary, delete the entire thread.

After that is done, I'll be glad to address your concerns.
Thread title has been changed.

Do you have any suggestions for betting means of contacting you?

Here is the first and major issue I need to address. Just like the front with the SN95 Struts, I do not have any bump travel on the rear shocks. I usually do my research pretty well before buying parts and nowhere did I find anything about being at near stock ride height with coilovers in order to maintain bump travel nor could I ever find the MM modified front struts for more lowered cars.
Anyhow, this is the ride height the car is at and needs to stay at whether I get rid of the Coilovers or change the setup. The car is no lower right now than it was on H&R supersports. I called MM and was told I could remove part of the bump stops on the shocks, but I really do not want to do that until I've heard it from you.

I have purchased MM racing upper shock mounts in hopes of gaining some bump travel with them.. Salesman told me about .75" but I really want to hear your opinion on that before I start drilling holes..

I am completely find with removing some of the inner fender to get the top hats to go further up into the shock tower.. Since i'm running an MM PHB I realize I cannot change the lower mounts to gain stroke that way..

IMG_0576 by Matt Whidden, on Flickr

As you can see, I am a 2" from the H&R pinion snubber still.

IMG_0662 by Matt Whidden, on Flickr

And here is a picture showing the tire size and ride height.. Nothing ridiculously low or lower than any other cars I've seen on coilovers.

14524530_10154537024768476_7137537304058575934_o by Matt Whidden, on Flickr

Now I fully understand that being too low is not good for suspension geometry.. I'm not building a race car, I just want something that can be driven from the car show and then handle like a sports car should through the canyon. I can easily raise the car up for an occasional autocross.

Finally, here is the last email I sent on December 6.

I'm ready to order the Torque Arm, Adjustable Rear Swaybar, and new CO springs for my car.
Vortech 97 Cobra, makes 450rwhp
Car is 3400# with Driver
Current Setup is
10" 325# Koni SA up front
8" 200# Koni SA in Back
Stock Front Swaybar
MM HD Rear Control Arms
MM PHB
MM FLSFC
MM C/C plates
Stock STB
4 Point Weld in Roll bar
Wilwood 14" Aero 6 up front
Wilwood 13" Single Piston Rear
18x9.5 True Forged Chicane with 275/35/18 RT615k
18x11 True Forged Chicane with 315/30/18 RT615k

Currently the car rides very nice and corners relatively flat, although the inside rear tire seems to unload pretty easily in long corners. I'm building a new rear end with a 31 Spline Axles, Torsen T2R, and 3.73's. Still does not hook at all in a straight line. I've heard from friends the Torque Arm will change that drastically.

With how well it rides, I'm considering moving up to a 350# front spring. Car is mainly setup for pro-touring but I will be competing in some Autocross Events. Keep that in mind.

Not in this phase, but last mods to suspension will be an MM tubular K and Non Offset control arms and whatever front swaybar it needs if necessary.

Now that you have the info,
What rear springs do I need to go with the 350 Front and which rear swaybar diameter?
Lastly, am I going to need a different front swaybar after all of this? I read alot about rears but don't see much info about the fronts.

Thank you for your time. My dealer is awaiting my order

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post #10 of 11 Old 12-20-2016, 04:08 PM
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Mr. Whidden,

Thanks for having the thread title edited. I had our computer guy look over the e-mail server for your 10/30 e-mail. He wasn't able to find it. I do have the e-mail that you posted above and sent me on 12/6. I have been out of work since about 12/3. The thread below has some details about this in posts #26 and #34.

http://corner-carvers.com/forums/sho...290#post337290

I ended up in the hospital for about a week as a result and have only been able to do a very small amount of work for the last week. To complicate matters, my wife is now sick with what I had, so I've been caring for her for the last four or five days. I know that it is frustrating that you weren't able to get a response in a reasonable time, but in this case, there was just no way for me to deal with your e-mail given the situation I was in.

My e-mail has my direct phone number in the signature in it. You can call this at any time. If I can, I'll answer it. If I don't return your call within eight hours or so, that normally means that I can't. In that case, just call the MM office number and speak with someone there. If I am not available, they will be able to tell you that.

I think that your car has been lowered much more than you realize.

From the factory, there is a mass damper that is bolted to the bottom of the ears on the differential. This damper has a metal bracket that goes over the top of the ears. This bracket serves two purposes. One is to be a nutplate for the nuts. The other is to be a surface for the pinion snubber to bottom on. See the links of photos below of the bracket and damper

http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-foru...ht-jpg.566560/

http://thumbs.ebaystatic.com/images/...krz/s-l225.jpg

The surface of this bracket for the snubber to contact is about 1.5" above the top of the differential casting. Your car is missing this bracket and mass damper. Given that the snubber is 2" from the top of the casting, this puts the car only 0.5" from where it would be contacting the metal bracket and that is with the shorter aftermarket snubber. With a stock snubber, it would be resting against the bracket at ride height.

Notice how far the front wheels are pulled rearwards in the front wheel wells? This is due to the amount that the car is lowered. At stock ride height, the wheels are centered fore/aft. As the car is lowered, the wheel moves rearwards in the opening due to the angle of the FCA pivots in the plan (top) view.

Before doing anything, I would do what is called a metal to metal analysis. This means to remove all bumpstops from the suspension and springs. Then slowly cycle the suspension from ride height to full bump with a jack. There are four places where you will have metal to metal contact on your car.

1) Axle tubes to frame rails.
2) Shock body bottoming inside upper spring perch.
3) Driveshaft to bottom of parking brake cable brackets below parking brake handle.
4) Driveshaft to transmission tunnel just in front of rear u-joint.

#1 is an absolute limit that can not be changed.
#2 might be a limitation, but can be improved upon with the racing shock mounts or other fabrication.
#3 is a common problem and can only be fixed somewhat by grinding the bracket. If the bracket hits the driveshaft very much, the driveshaft will get a groove machined in it and will be ruined.
#4 requires extensive hammering of the tunnel.

Cycle the rear suspension very slowly. Once you run into the bump limitation on your car, stop. Precisely record how much further the suspension could move for each of the other three possible travel limitations. This is important to do. If you fix the limitation, but find that the next limit is only 1/8" further, then there may have been no point.

It is possible to shorten the bumpstop, but don't do so until after we have data for all of the above.

The racing upper shock mount will increase bump travel and can be modified to add even more bump travel, but you don't want to install it until after you have looked at the above limitations.

In the front, you definitely want to use Koni struts for a Fox Mustang. They will give the car 1.02" more bump travel in front. ..The 29mm swaybar on the front of the car will work fine.

With the 325lbs/in front springs, I would keep the 200lbs/in rear springs.

With a 350lbs/in front spring, I would also keep the 200lbs/in rear spring. This combination will actually have slightly better ride quality.

I would use an MMRSB-5.1 rear swaybar (7/8" x 0.188").

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post #11 of 11 Old 12-21-2016, 02:38 PM
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Great response Jack and sorry to hear about the illness. Hope all are healthy soon.
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