5W50, 10W30, 10W40, Redline, Mobil, others? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 44 Old 08-14-2016, 09:20 PM Thread Starter
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5W50, 10W30, 10W40, Redline, Mobil, others?

I have always run Mobil 1 full synthetic in my drag cars. I just went to Pegasus in New Berlin, WI and picked up some Redline oils for the engine, tranny and differential and some Water Wetter for the radiator.

I am not sure I got what I should have though when it comes to the engine oil. I read what it said on the Redline site about the different oils and opted for the fully synthetic Redline 10W30 but am now wondering if I should have gone with the 5W50 that Ford runs in the GT500's and Ford GT's.

Just curious what others are running and why? I want to be able to run it on the street as I drive the car almost daily, but have the protection needed for the track. I believe the 10W30 is perfect for the street but not sure if it is the best option for both street and track. It will never see winter driving so spring, summer and fall weather (50 farenheit or hotter) is all the car will drive in.

Thanks to all who reply.

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post #2 of 44 Old 08-15-2016, 10:26 AM
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I run 15w-50 because I wasn't comfortable with the high-temperature high-shear (HTHS) viscosity of lighter oils.

I used to run Redline almost all the time, but since I can get Mobil1 at Wal-mart and for a lot less money than finding a race shop or having Redline shipped, I've been leaning toward Mobil1. I get a Blackstone oil analysis every oil change and I'm going to see if I can see a difference in levels of various metals between the two.

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post #3 of 44 Old 08-15-2016, 05:31 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply MFE, was hoping you would chime in.

I looked today for 15W50 Mobil 1 and didn't find any in my local auto stores. I will check Wal Mart next. I am going to try this Redline and see how it works. Redline seems to be the number one seller at Pegasus so I am sure it works, just not sure I got the right type.


I did get the Redline MTL for the TKO 600 and will be getting the gear oil tomorrow. What are you running in your transmission and differentials? BTW, bought some of that Motul 600 as well. I think it may already be in the car and looks pretty fresh, will have to ask the previous owner. Are you running any thing special for the power steering pump?
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post #4 of 44 Old 08-15-2016, 08:29 PM
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1) Engine (DART Sportsman 331ci) gets Amsoil Dominator motor oil 10W30 because of the Siamese bores and clearances in engine.

2) Tremec TKO 600: GM Synchromesh Transmission fluid

3) Rear differential and micro-polished and lighten 3.73 gear set: Ford Motorcraft differential fluid 75W90 and Ford Racing or Ford Motorcraft Friction Modifier Additive. BTW, no added HP or performance gained from the micro-polished rear-end gears.

I hope this helps
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post #5 of 44 Old 08-15-2016, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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It does Michael, are you road racing your car? Just curious as that seems like a pretty 'normal' line of fluids. I am probably overly concerned on all this and over thinking it all. Just want to make SURE I have the best protection for the gear that I am running. It is cheap insurance. Thanks for your reply.
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post #6 of 44 Old 08-15-2016, 10:49 PM
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I run GM Synchromesh in the TKO, and I've run Redline 75w90 in the diff, but switched to Mobil1 75w90 last year.
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post #7 of 44 Old 08-16-2016, 12:08 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks MFE, that helps a lot. I was thinking I would have to go heavier on the oils but it appears that is not the case.
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post #8 of 44 Old 08-16-2016, 05:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ERStettin View Post
It does Michael, are you road racing your car? Just curious as that seems like a pretty 'normal' line of fluids. I am probably overly concerned on all this and over thinking it all.
Road racer, heck no but I wish. First off, my car is a street car. I take it on 700-1000 mile road trips to visit family and friends. I've participated in a few (3) autocross events in the last 3 years but the car and driver (that's me) are not competitive. I've participated in 1/4 drag racing and now I'm looking forward to 1/2 drag racing ( wannaGOFAST - High-Speed Racing - Home) but need to change a few parts to be competitive. The suspension shop (FasTrack Automotive Inc.) that setup my suspension, recommended the fluids for the differential, and engine. They also requested that I replace my brake fluid before my first autocross event 3 years ago and I haven't replaced it since, maybe it's time? But I have the most fun just driving it as hard as I can, whenever I can. Maybe my lineup of fluids seems normal but getting advice from experts in this area may be the best advice I can give you.

I hope that helps
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Last edited by Michael Plummer; 08-16-2016 at 05:28 AM.
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post #9 of 44 Old 08-16-2016, 07:08 AM Thread Starter
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I appreciate that Michael. 1/2 mile drag racing sounds very fun. I will look into that as well. Also, getting advice from professionals is what I intend to do, right now, based on what you and MFE have said, I think I am on track with my thought process on these fluids. That makes me feel good. Just want to make sure I do it right.
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post #10 of 44 Old 08-16-2016, 09:54 AM
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An oil temp and pressure gauge will go a long way to telling you what weight oil you need. Heavier oil holds more heat- this isn't a "if 10w-30 is good, 20w-50 must be better" deal.

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post #11 of 44 Old 08-16-2016, 06:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Ross, I have one of those to put on as well. I bought that Moshimito (spelling?) piece but have not had a chance to install it yet. I am not sure it has a provision for a temperature gauge but it does have the thermostat. I will check into the gauge and see if I can find a place to put that probe to make it work.
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post #12 of 44 Old 08-17-2016, 11:52 AM
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If you're tracking heavily or for extended periods of time, don't be surprised to see the need for an oil cooler. North of 220-230* oil temp you'll probably want to bump up to the next heavier weight than whatever your engine called for originally. Over 250* I'd be adding an oil cooler for sure. The NASCAR boys hardly even look at water temp, only caring to keep it low enough to prevent the pressure relief valve from popping. Oil temps are a different story...
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post #13 of 44 Old 08-17-2016, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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Good to know information. Is there a time when the coolant temperatures would not be indicative of what your oil temp might be? What I mean is this. I have read that oil temps run hotter than the coolant by about 20 or so degrees. So if your coolant temperatures are around 200 to 210, oil should not be much higher....right? I am asking because I have two events next week and am not sure I will have a oil temperature gauge installed by then so I am kind of relying on the water temp and the stock pressure gauge (I know, I know...lol) until I can get a reliable alternative.
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post #14 of 44 Old 08-17-2016, 01:36 PM
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Not really. Case in point, at an autocross last Sunday my water temps were about 210 sitting in line and my oil temp was 170 (dry sump and a big cooler, takes a long time to heat up). I know certain LS engines are really hard on oil- good water temps and oil near 300*. Can you at least install a real pressure gauge before then?
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post #15 of 44 Old 08-17-2016, 03:30 PM Thread Starter
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Not really. Case in point, at an autocross last Sunday my water temps were about 210 sitting in line and my oil temp was 170 (dry sump and a big cooler, takes a long time to heat up). I know certain LS engines are really hard on oil- good water temps and oil near 300*. Can you at least install a real pressure gauge before then?
LOL, that made me laugh. I hear you man. I am working on getting it all sorted out.....lol. Thanks Ross, that was funny.
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post #16 of 44 Old 08-17-2016, 03:32 PM
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How about brake fluid? I picked up Castrol SRF on the recommendation of some Porsche race guys I know. Good enough for GT3 Cup car, good enough for a beat down fox body.

Also, Pegasus Racing FTW! Love that place. Never actually been. Be like a kid in a candy store. Online shopping is bad enough.

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post #17 of 44 Old 08-17-2016, 03:43 PM Thread Starter
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I bought a case of the Reline 10W30, case of the MTL, and a case of the Motul 600....overkill, yeah. But I shouldn't need fluids for a while. Pegasus is about an hour from my house so I thought I would stock up.

Willy, are you going to the SCCA track night next Tuesday at BHF? Or the Northwoods Shelby event that following weekend at BHF?
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post #18 of 44 Old 08-17-2016, 05:46 PM
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Quote:
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I bought a case of the Reline 10W30, case of the MTL, and a case of the Motul 600....overkill, yeah. But I shouldn't need fluids for a while. Pegasus is about an hour from my house so I thought I would stock up.

Willy, are you going to the SCCA track night next Tuesday at BHF? Or the Northwoods Shelby event that following weekend at BHF?
Not I. Sadly, all my go-fast parts are strewn around the shop. PHB is sitting in the backseat. T/A is still wrapped in its shipping material. Built axle is sitting on a 55 gallon drum. Disc brakes are sitting where the driver's seat would normally go, and said driver seat is sitting in an empty office.

So, you know. Typical foxbody problems

That being said, if you're up and running on 10SEP, Chicagoland Mustang Club hooked up with a driver's group for Autobahn Joliet for the day http://www.chicagolandmustang.com/fo...-Day-Sept-10th

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post #19 of 44 Old 08-17-2016, 05:49 PM Thread Starter
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I might be able to make that. I will look into it.
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post #20 of 44 Old 08-21-2016, 12:03 PM
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I use Redline 20w-50. When I go to the track I use Redlines racing series oil 50wt.

Redline power steering pump fluid.

Redline heavy shockproof gear oil which runs the equivalent thickness of a 75w-90

Motul 600 brake fluid

GM Synchromesh in my TKO600.

Definitely want something thicker in there for serious track duty! I would exchange the 10w-30 you bought for the 5w-50 if your going to be tracking your car with that oil. Even WITH an oil cooler. These engines can seriously heat up some oil on a 20-30 minute thrash on the road course..... Even with my HUGE oil cooler I see oil temps around 260-270 and my water temps at 190-200. With no oil cooler on my car or even a small one I have no doubt they would be soaring well over 300.

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post #21 of 44 Old 08-21-2016, 06:12 PM Thread Starter
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I use Redline 20w-50. When I go to the track I use Redlines racing series oil 50wt.

Redline power steering pump fluid.

Redline heavy shockproof gear oil which runs the equivalent thickness of a 75w-90

Motul 600 brake fluid

GM Synchromesh in my TKO600.

Definitely want something thicker in there for serious track duty! I would exchange the 10w-30 you bought for the 5w-50 if your going to be tracking your car with that oil. Even WITH an oil cooler. These engines can seriously heat up some oil on a 20-30 minute thrash on the road course..... Even with my HUGE oil cooler I see oil temps around 260-270 and my water temps at 190-200. With no oil cooler on my car or even a small one I have no doubt they would be soaring well over 300.
I don't doubt you one bit. I am going to run my current 10W30 at my next SCCA Track Night this Tuesday and see how it does. That seems to be a pretty laid back atmosphere so if it starts to get hot, I will just pull off and let it cool off instead or ruining bearings and the like. I was going back and forth on this oil stuff. Redline advertises this 10W30 has the viscosity of the standard 10W40, so I thought I would try it. If it doesn't work, I will buy a case of that 5W50 and be done with it. I will be able to tell as soon as I get that Oil Temperature gauge I ordered, hooked up and working. Have to wait until Tuesday for that. It is in the mail.
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post #22 of 44 Old 08-21-2016, 08:36 PM
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In my experience, the oil temp doesn't vary much by oil viscosity. The temperature is what it will be. Then you have to figure out what viscosity you think will give you the protection you need, at that temperature. Put another way, don't try to manage the oil temp by viscosity, manage the viscosity according to the oil temp.
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post #23 of 44 Old 08-21-2016, 09:35 PM Thread Starter
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I understand. I have only got one track night under my belt and didn't have a oil temperature gauge but my water temp gauge never got higher than 190 the whole night so I am suspecting I was fine with the oil. I will know shortly when I get that oil temperature gauge installed. I have 4 events in the next month so I should have a good handle on what this car is doing under those loads.
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post #24 of 44 Old 08-21-2016, 10:01 PM
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What oil pan are you using? Do you have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge too?

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I have a Canton on there now. I only have the stock oil pressure gauge.
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post #26 of 44 Old 08-23-2016, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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I installed my Engine Oil Temperature gauge and it appears to be working well. I have the Moshimito Engine Oil Cooler as well. Both of these are new since my last SCCA track night. I look forward to seeing what happens with the temperatures tonight at the BHF SCCA Track Night.
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post #27 of 44 Old 08-23-2016, 07:29 PM
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Interested in your results...

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Well I think my gauge is bad or I messed something up because the other two gauges work and the lights go on for all three of them but the Engine Oil Temperature gauge didn't get above 100 degrees all night and I know that is wrong. I got 12vdc to the "I" terminal, the ground hooked up and the 18 gauge wire from the probe on the sandwich plate to the "S" terminal on the back of the gauge. All of this is as instructed by the Autometer instructions that come with it. Any thoughts on what it could be?

Also, the water temperature never got over 180 degrees tonight. I HAD A BLAST!!!! I love Blackhawk Farms. We had 18 Mustangs show up, one of them was a new Shelby GT 350 and a Super Snake Shelby GT500 and a bunch of others. We had 5 Fox bodys and the rest were newer Mustangs. I am getting better driving but still nearly spun out several times racing some young kid in a 2016 GT. We were back and forth all night and I ended up using all my brake pads and limped it home...lol. I have the Raybestos ST47's everyone likes going on tomorrow, so I will be good to go in 3 days for the Northwoods Shelby race at Blackhawk.

I purposely did not bring my GoPro tonight and was really regretting it after the first 20 minutes. We had some great instruction tonight by several SCCA guys and a lot of even racing all night. It was EXTREMELY fun. Can't wait to go again this Saturday. Have to get my pads on and that Engine Oil Temperature gauge figured out.
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post #29 of 44 Old 08-24-2016, 09:26 AM
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Well I think my gauge is bad or I messed something up because the other two gauges work and the lights go on for all three of them but the Engine Oil Temperature gauge didn't get above 100 degrees all night and I know that is wrong. I got 12vdc to the "I" terminal, the ground hooked up and the 18 gauge wire from the probe on the sandwich plate to the "S" terminal on the back of the gauge. All of this is as instructed by the Autometer instructions that come with it. Any thoughts on what it could be?
May want to double check your grounds, and you also may need to add a ground to the sensor body itself (although I kind of doubt that).
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post #30 of 44 Old 08-24-2016, 09:40 AM Thread Starter
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When I check the "I" terminal, I used the ground on the back of the meter to do it. It worked. Would there be some other way to check that ground other than this? If it didn't show my voltage, that ground would be the cause, correct? I hate electrical stuff. Should have just taken it to the shop.....lol.

EDIT: Just got off the phone with Autometer and told him the same thing and he asked if I used teflon tape for the sensor....I did. He said I am probably not getting a ground due to that and to replace it with a couple drops of liquid teflon so the metal on metal can happen there and give me the ground I need. So you were right Ross...it is a ground at the sensor IF this works. Going to go work with it and see what happens.
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post #31 of 44 Old 08-24-2016, 09:42 AM
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May want to double check your grounds.
This, didn't notice you say anything about the ground wire on the gauge itself. If it is LED powered there should be 2 grounds, one for the light and one for the gauge.

Edit, I completely missed where you indeed said it was grounded, my bad.

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post #32 of 44 Old 08-24-2016, 11:01 AM
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Easy to forget that electrical sending units work by grounding themselves through whatever they're threaded into. Liquid Teflon should work fine, I've used the paste Teflon/pipe sealant before too and it's worked fine. Remember it's not whatever substance you're applying's job to seal the fitting, pipe threads seal on the threads themselves. The Teflon provides lubricity for things to be tightened enough for this to happen.

You can check the quality of your ground by testing the resistance across the sender body and a known good ground, it should be very low.
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post #33 of 44 Old 08-24-2016, 06:45 PM Thread Starter
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Well the damn thing still is not working. I am now wondering if I got a bad meter. I will call Autometer in the morning and see what they say. I have checked everything that I know to check.
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post #34 of 44 Old 08-25-2016, 09:19 AM
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What's it not doing, still reading inconsistently? Triple check grounds.
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post #35 of 44 Old 08-25-2016, 09:51 AM Thread Starter
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No, the needle is not reading anything. What other ground should I check? I have pulled the meter and am getting 12 vdc and the lights work on it. I pulled the sensor and replaced the teflon tape with the teflon paste. I actually cleaned the threads with a tap and used the grease sparingly so as to insure there was contact. I tested the ground on the meter by putting the multimeter on the I terminal for 12volts power and the ground on the meter. It worked or I would not have a ground. So I am not sure what else I can check or how. I am really an idiot with electronics but have done what I have been asked to do and still no results. I actually had the car on the lift yesterday looking at my connection on the probe and it was good. I really don't know what else to think other than the meter is bad.
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