Wheel clearance with C/O's - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 03-26-2016, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Wheel clearance with C/O's

This has probably been asked several times, but I can't seem to find it. How much clearance does one actually need between the wheel/tire and coilovers? I have MM coilovers and A-Arms on front with 9" 95 Replica R's and 275 NT-01s. The drivers side I can start to get my finger between but not quite all the way between. I'm thinking an 1/8" spacer would easily allow my finger between. On the passenger side I can't get a finger between and it doesn't appear to be touching but it is tight. I'm saying it's probably an 1/8" closer than the drivers side.

Exactly how much space is needed? I would like to think the drivers side is good as is, but the passenger side is the one that has me worried.

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post #2 of 13 Old 03-26-2016, 09:21 PM
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It sounds to me like you're in good shape. What part of the coilover is the closest point of interference? The lower spring perch? The spring itself? The body of the damper?


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post #3 of 13 Old 03-27-2016, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by Patrick Olsen View Post
It sounds to me like you're in good shape. What part of the coilover is the closest point of interference? The lower spring perch? The spring itself? The body of the damper?
So, as long as it isn't touching when stationery it should be fine when under extreme load?

And it's at the perch.
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post #4 of 13 Old 03-27-2016, 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Derk View Post
So, as long as it isn't touching when stationery it should be fine when under extreme load?

And it's at the perch.
I've heard a 1/4 inch as safe before, but you really need to find out where your minimum clearance happens. If there is a rule of thumb, Jack Hidley would know it. But the wheel is moving up, down, and changing camber with travel. Checking with some compression and some droop and seeing if the gap is increasing or decreasing is a good clue if it's going to be alright. I would make sure to check with the wheel turned too

EDIT:
I'm a clown. The wheel isn't moving relative to the strut. Ride height is pretty much as close as it'll get. Still don't know a good minimum number for you though. If the people who beat on their cars proper run X clearance and haven't had any issues, you should be fine
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post #5 of 13 Old 03-28-2016, 11:33 AM
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my 17x9 cobra r's with nitto nt555 (275) were close up front as well, with Fox MM A arms, now im using 1 inch spacers up front so that issue is long gone, also swapping to SN95 forward offset A arms. I probably had 1/8 of an inch clearance never had any problems.

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post #6 of 13 Old 03-28-2016, 12:57 PM
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18*10s, +24MM, 285 slicks, 94-95 spindles, SN95 FCAs, 8" 375 lb. spring with a 1" spacer at the top of the coil. Tons of clearance. But, if you use 10" springs or longer, things get a lot closer.
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post #7 of 13 Old 03-30-2016, 11:30 AM
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To get the clearance the same or a little further apart, take some camber out at the spindle and add it back in with the CC plates.
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post #8 of 13 Old 03-30-2016, 03:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 88lxvert View Post
To get the clearance the same or a little further apart, take some camber out at the spindle and add it back in with the CC plates.
Camber bolts aren't ideal, but doing that will work. Might mess up your scrub radius and steering feel if you move it enough though
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post #9 of 13 Old 03-30-2016, 10:49 PM
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I think he was referring to the fact that most manufacturers have a slotted lower hole in the strut so you can slightly adjust camber while still using the factory bolts. I agree though camber bolts are a bad idea, need all the strength you can get right there.

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post #10 of 13 Old 03-31-2016, 09:45 AM Thread Starter
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That may help me a little, I pushed them in for as much negative camber as possible when bolting the struts in.

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post #11 of 13 Old 04-01-2016, 11:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Derk View Post
That may help me a little, I pushed them in for as much negative camber as possible when bolting the struts in.
Unless you don't have enough adjustment at the strut, I would lock it down in the middle position and just change alignment at the tower

Do your caster camber plates not give you enough adjustment?
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post #12 of 13 Old 04-01-2016, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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Well, I've got as much negative camber as I can throw at the thing and the outside edge of my tires are way more worn than the inside (it mostly see's autocross time at the moment...you could almost just call it a racecar).

I was under the impression that the most you could get out of a new edge still wasn't really enough.
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post #13 of 13 Old 04-01-2016, 11:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Derk View Post
Well, I've got as much negative camber as I can throw at the thing and the outside edge of my tires are way more worn than the inside (it mostly see's autocross time at the moment...you could almost just call it a racecar).

I was under the impression that the most you could get out of a new edge still wasn't really enough.
I think more caster is mo' betta. 5+ gets you camber gain on turn-in

But with your parts there shouldn't be a ton of bushing deflection or alignment change

What's your static alignment right now? Spring rates? How does the car drive? Do you have a lot of tire for the wheel?

Autocross suspension is weird. A lot of people run swaybar setups that do great in autocross but would be the opposite of what you'd want in road racing. MFE or Jack Hidley might know how to get your car to respond better and use more of the tire on track, but if you've topped out MM caster camber plates AND your spindle camber and it didn't help it, you might need to look at something else.
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