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post #1 of 5 Old 02-08-2016, 04:01 AM Thread Starter
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New guy hope to see you guys soon.

hello everyone im hoping to get into the autocorss / open track world very soon ( in the Las Vegas area) i have a 2000 gt mustang which is a auto. and m swaping to a t45. i had to wait due to my auto tranny going bad leaking and having one of the gear rings after the pump crack. Soooooo now that im about to swap in my t45 i can get started . I do know that due to my current mods i will not be in the general starting because of my mods:

suspension:
eibach front a rear sway bars
bump steer
kenny brown CC plates
front upr coilovers 12-250 springs
rear steeda competition springs
upr mild steel k member
tubular front and rear control arms
cobra front and rear brakes ( but upgrading to 14in front and 13in rear)

differential:
strange engineering 31 spline axles
arp studs
3.73 gears

wheels tires :
xxr 531 18x9.5 18x11
not sure on tires yet but i currently have Sumitomo ZIII


engine mods.
engine basic 4.6 2v mods. ( but planning for single 67mm turbo set for 400 hp)

Transmission : T45- which now brings me to my question im wanting to get a McLeod Street Pro Clutch with a McLeod Racing Chromoly Steel Flywheel and a MGW shifter. Would this be a good route to go?


an Alien Racing
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post #2 of 5 Old 02-08-2016, 05:07 AM
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Hey, welcome aboard. I just made the jump from Drags to Road as well and will be trying out my car at the track this spring here in Beloit, WI. I have never road raced so not going to be able to help you much as I have no experience there. I did just put a Spec Stage 1 clutch in my car after talking with Spec about it and they said it is good to 495 hp or so. It has a simple throw, is not nearly as grabby as the others I have used (Spec stage 3 and Spec stage 3+) and will hold up to your power levels easily. Never run a McCleod so not really able to help there. Enjoy the racing. You have a nice place to do that....in the winter time....lol.

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post #3 of 5 Old 02-10-2016, 04:04 PM
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Get as much seat time as often as possible. Other than the wear and safety items, run it as is. You'll come to appreciate what the car really needs much better. Remember, heat is not your friend.
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post #4 of 5 Old 02-10-2016, 10:10 PM
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Vegas = Year 'round seat time.
Don't over-think the hardware side. The mods on your car are fine for going out and having fun. And isn't that the whole point?

1. Before your first event, go through your car from bumper to bumper. Nut and bolt it, rotors and pads, wheel bearings, check all the fluids, etc.. When was the last time you changed out your brake fluid?

2. You have enough mods to get thrown into a class where you probably will NOT be competitive. Expect to have lots of guys telling you what your next mods need to be. DON'T get sucked in to "buying your way to the top" of the time sheets. Work on your driving!! Just keep good tires and good brakes on the car and get to as many events as possible.

3. AFTER you can get to the point where you can feel a tire pressure change, or an alignment change, you are ready to start planning your next part update.

'88 LX hatch. Mild 331. Full MM suspension minus the Torque Arm, Cobra Brakes. Not as slow as it used to be.
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post #5 of 5 Old 02-11-2016, 08:59 AM
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CAM is where you want to be if your region offers that class. Otherwise, the current mods will hurt. Nonetheless, one can still have fun and learn technique even at the bottom. If the region offers a driving school, think about doing one or two. Although expensive, you can jumpstart seat time since most schools run as many as 20 trips during the day. And you get an instrutor telling you how wonderful you are. Don't do back-to-back days. There is too much to learn and generally, most of it won't stick the first time out even with 20 runs.
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