Suspension question for my foxbody - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 01-03-2016, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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Suspension question for my foxbody

I have a 1991 fox body coupe. It is a week end cruiser mostly but I am thinking of occasionally going to the track. Road course and drag race. I am doing a five bolt conversion and currently have a modified stock front K-member as per the mustang performance handbook 2. I also have H&R springs, race for the front and super race for the rear with Bilstein struts and 03 Cobra lower control arms. All I would need is a set of Bilstein rear shocks to complete the suspension. I am contemplating a couple of other options. I was looking at a package deal on new Bilstein struts and shocks with matching eibach springs or I was thinking of going full out and getting a MM k-member with lower control arms and coil overs on all four corners. I have a built 347 to go in it and an 8.8 with a torsen diff with 3.55 gears. It already has MM full length sub frame connectors and lower control arms with adjustable spring perches. There is also a MM panhard bar waiting to be installed. I will be running 17 inch rims, 8 inch at the front and 10 inch at the rear. I have long tube headers but am doubtful they will clear the stock k-member as I have a 4 point brace I would like to install. I would like to hear other peoples experiences and opinions with similar setups and any questions to help me decide. Thank you.

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post #2 of 11 Old 01-03-2016, 12:54 PM
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How much of the Maximum Motorsports website have you read?
I have their C/O kit (and CC plates) with stock K and urethane bushed control arms up front. I have the PHB with MM lowers, SN95 uppers and MM springs in the rear. I am going to a PM3L as soon as I find the right upper control arm.
Don't forget the strut tower brace! Especially going to C/O on the front! I also went 5 lug with Cobra brakes front and rear. There seems to be more wheel choices at 18", but the nasty Michigan roads have me staying with 17's just for that taller sidewall.
You are on the right track. There are several people on here with similar set-ups.
The MM K and control arms would probably be on my car if I had the budget for them. Probably the torque arm, too.
Bottom line: Throw the whole MM catalog at the car. Tell them your realistic goals for it, let them pick your spring rates, follow the install instructions, and enjoy!


'88 LX hatch. Mild 331. Full MM suspension minus the Torque Arm, Cobra Brakes. Not as slow as it used to be.
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post #3 of 11 Old 01-03-2016, 02:01 PM Thread Starter
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I have read a fair bit of their website but need to do more and take the time to absorb it. I appreciate the real world information that you have provided me. It sounds like anyone that I have asked has been more than pleased with the MM parts that they've bought and want to get more. This has been more of a money issue in that I want to make sure for my situation and type of driving it's worthwhile to buy upgraded parts instead of staying with what I have. Are you glad that you spent the money and did you see a worthwhile improvement for the investment?
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post #4 of 11 Old 01-04-2016, 06:33 PM
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Am I glad I spent the money with MM? Yes.
I initially built my car with a hodgepodge of parts. Springs from a donor car, rear control arms from another, shocks that I took on trade, etc. It looked great. It rode like a dump truck and handled worse. My wife has back trouble. She really could not go for a trip of more than 20 minutes or so on Michigan roads.

I started doing some research and found Maximum Motorsports. Their stuff isn't cheap, but the information they put out there in the public, and the direction it took me made it worth a few extra bucks. The quality of their parts or customer service has never disappointed me.

Did I see a worthwhile improvement for the money spent?
If I didn't I would just keep my opinions to myself. I still have the stock K member and control arms on the front of mine. I am planning for at least the control arms for next year's update. They will be MM. Would I be planning to spend more $$ with them if I thought there was a better option?

'88 LX hatch. Mild 331. Full MM suspension minus the Torque Arm, Cobra Brakes. Not as slow as it used to be.
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post #5 of 11 Old 01-04-2016, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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After more research and reading about your car and experiences I am going to start collecting MM parts. I almost bought the K-member this week-end when it was on sale. I will keep checking the MM website and get the parts I need when they're on sale. Thanks for all the information that you have provided. Do you ever go to the Woodward avenue dream cruise? I am a 5 hour drive away and have attended. I would love to see your car if you go to the cruise.
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post #6 of 11 Old 01-05-2016, 11:14 AM
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Something to remember when calling MM, the reps will always suggest springs on the softer side because they dont expect everyone to want a serious race/track day car setup.

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post #7 of 11 Old 01-05-2016, 10:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Canadian88LX View Post
After more research and reading about your car and experiences I am going to start collecting MM parts. I almost bought the K-member this week-end when it was on sale. I will keep checking the MM website and get the parts I need when they're on sale. Thanks for all the information that you have provided. Do you ever go to the Woodward avenue dream cruise? I am a 5 hour drive away and have attended. I would love to see your car if you go to the cruise.
I worked MM's "The deal of the day" for all it was worth. I got my PHB used and bought a new hardware kit from MM. I bought a couple of things on specials from MM dealers, too. Maier Racing got some of my biz.
I was out of town for Woodward last year. First time I missed it. August is a long way off, but chances are I will be there in 2016! My car is FAR from show-worthy. The paint is a 10-footer on a good day in just the right light. I am not one to invest a lot of time, money, or effort if it doesn't yield progress toward the car's stated purpose. If a production part will do, I don't buy a chrome one.

'88 LX hatch. Mild 331. Full MM suspension minus the Torque Arm, Cobra Brakes. Not as slow as it used to be.
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post #8 of 11 Old 01-07-2016, 01:05 AM
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You are on the right track the rear end of these cars are terrible for hooking up and over-steer like crazy. Since you have the panhard bar, install it then buy the torque arm next and install as well. After that worry about the front of the car CTRL arms, bushing, k-member etc. I don't know much power your car is making or what type of racing you are doing to help out more.
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post #9 of 11 Old 01-07-2016, 08:43 PM
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I installed budget package of springs and shocks from LMR, 571 lbs front, 250 lbs rear for $350, caster camber plates $160, MM panhard bar $375,weld in frame stiffeners $80, strut tower brace $130, performance friction carbon metallic brake pads $ 60. Car does OK on my budget. https://youtu.be/ldrDFD59NQU I will drop another $900 on some good tires this year,destroyed my cheap mastercraft all season at the track last summer.Have some 17 by 8 wheels on my stock 4 lug,leaning towards the Dunlop star specs 245-45-17
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post #10 of 11 Old 01-28-2016, 01:51 PM
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I have a 1990 coupe the autocross and open track it has a full Maximum Motorsports suspension setup if you have any questions feel free to email me or ask

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post #11 of 11 Old 01-29-2016, 08:41 PM
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You must understand the Fox chassis' shortcomings before buying parts. For example, the stock 4-link is notorious for producing snap over-steer. The reason is because the upper arms are designed to do two jobs: (i) lateral axle control (keeps it from moving side-to-side); and (ii) axle roll-control (keeps the axle from rolling under accel/decell). In order for this to happen, Ford designed the upper arms and bushings to twist/deform that effectively allows the arms to "grow" during articulation.

At some point the arms reach their maximum "growth" and the suspension binds. At bind, the wheel rate (a measure of both the spring rate and motion ratio of the arms) goes to infinity (i.e., the suspension goes solid) which cause the rear tires to lose traction; a spin-out usually occurs. This is why adding poly bushings and/or boxed or tubular uppers and/or higher rated springs to the stock rear suspension is the wrong direction for a handling car. These pieces all cause bind much sooner than the stock parts.

The correct approach is to reduce rear suspension bind to as close to zero as possible. We do this with redesigned rear suspension pieces, such as the T/A, PM3L, true 3-link, Steeda 5-link, IRS. Once the bind is removed, we need to increase rear spring rate to account for the bind provided by the now removed rear suspension. Once this is done, the rear suspension adds a bunch of traction to the rear. This in turn causes the front to push in turns much worse than the stock design. Now, we need to address the front suspension.

This is a system that must be considered as a whole, even if the budget can only support piecemeal purchases.
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