is quantum motorsports out of buisness?if so where is a good place to get brake ducts - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 28 Old 12-15-2011, 10:34 PM Thread Starter
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is quantum motorsports out of buisness?if so where is a good place to get brake ducts

was going to get a kit from quantum,but the website is no longer up.another question is was going to set my car up for open track,but will still use as a street car.im on a budget,so i am currently useing the factory 03-04 cobra front brakes,should i get a 2 inch or 3 inch kit?and where from?


88 lx hatch,ported track heat heads,f-cam,ported stealth intake,150 shot,6al,holley carb,3:55 gears,x-pipe,flowmaster catback,aje kmember,mm control arms,c.c.plates,torque arm,panhard,full subframes,tko trans,tri-ax shifter,ceramic shortys,sumped tank,tru-trac diff,lots of other crap i cant remember
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post #2 of 28 Old 12-15-2011, 11:16 PM
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Doesn't have to be fancy. The 2nd article here is how I did mine for years, and I still use the same kind of scoop. Fox Mustang

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post #3 of 28 Old 12-16-2011, 01:54 AM
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Do you need it for street use or track?

94 Mustang GT. Stock.
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post #4 of 28 Old 12-16-2011, 03:50 PM
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These are a track only item. I highly doubt you need cooling ducts for street driving.

1989 Mustang GT: 5.0, 5spd --- Sold. SVO brakes, MM suspension bits, 331ci, X pipe.

2012 Mustang V6PP 6spd MT --- Daily Driver, D Stock auto crosser, maybe track days some time...
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post #5 of 28 Old 12-16-2011, 04:07 PM
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Agent 47 sells them.
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post #6 of 28 Old 12-16-2011, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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lol,track use,your driving too hard if you need them on the street.i was just saying i will be driving the car some on the street,its not a track only car.was just wondering if i will see any durability issues from the hose being it will be driven more.mfe,how has your homemade front intakes been holding up?i was going to try the same thing being i have a lx also.

88 lx hatch,ported track heat heads,f-cam,ported stealth intake,150 shot,6al,holley carb,3:55 gears,x-pipe,flowmaster catback,aje kmember,mm control arms,c.c.plates,torque arm,panhard,full subframes,tko trans,tri-ax shifter,ceramic shortys,sumped tank,tru-trac diff,lots of other crap i cant remember
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post #7 of 28 Old 12-16-2011, 06:25 PM
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They hold up well. I occasionally break one loose on a parking brick, but overall I think I'm only on my 2nd pair in 8 years.
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post #8 of 28 Old 12-16-2011, 06:29 PM Thread Starter
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They hold up well. I occasionally break one loose on a parking brick, but overall I think I'm only on my 2nd pair in 8 years.
well,cant beat that for the price and avalibility lol,if one breaks every now and then i can handle that.

88 lx hatch,ported track heat heads,f-cam,ported stealth intake,150 shot,6al,holley carb,3:55 gears,x-pipe,flowmaster catback,aje kmember,mm control arms,c.c.plates,torque arm,panhard,full subframes,tko trans,tri-ax shifter,ceramic shortys,sumped tank,tru-trac diff,lots of other crap i cant remember
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post #9 of 28 Old 12-16-2011, 07:48 PM
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I've been using 2-1/2" shop vac hose for 6 years. The same hose for all 6 years. I didn't bother with flanges at the wheels. I just removed the splash guards (backing plates if you prefer), bent the hose to an oval shape and tie wrapped it to the bottom of the strut. That way it only has to articulate with the lower control arm instead of turning with the wheel.

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post #10 of 28 Old 12-16-2011, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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well,i found quantum again,they changed the website name to lambert automotive,here is a link to the 94-04 mustang kits,the 2 inch says the hose is only good to 250 deg,the 3 inch says 600 deg.will the 250 degree hose give me a problem on a open track?

Quantum Brake Cooling Kits : Lambert Automotive Performance Products


88 lx hatch,ported track heat heads,f-cam,ported stealth intake,150 shot,6al,holley carb,3:55 gears,x-pipe,flowmaster catback,aje kmember,mm control arms,c.c.plates,torque arm,panhard,full subframes,tko trans,tri-ax shifter,ceramic shortys,sumped tank,tru-trac diff,lots of other crap i cant remember
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post #11 of 28 Old 12-16-2011, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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Doesn't have to be fancy. The 2nd article here is how I did mine for years, and I still use the same kind of scoop. Fox Mustang
i like your setup.are you using 3 inch hose?do you know what temp its rated to?remember how many feet you used?

88 lx hatch,ported track heat heads,f-cam,ported stealth intake,150 shot,6al,holley carb,3:55 gears,x-pipe,flowmaster catback,aje kmember,mm control arms,c.c.plates,torque arm,panhard,full subframes,tko trans,tri-ax shifter,ceramic shortys,sumped tank,tru-trac diff,lots of other crap i cant remember
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post #12 of 28 Old 12-16-2011, 10:43 PM
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Yes, 3 inch hose. That's the super high temp stuff, like 600 degrees, since replaced with the black stuff that's lower rated. It doesn't need to be very high rated, and even then, only the part closest to the rotor gets the most heat. I can't remember if it's 3 or 4 feet per side.
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post #13 of 28 Old 12-16-2011, 10:45 PM
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I've had the Quantum kit for a while. Used it on my daily driver, so on the hwy sometimes pads would get too cold, and stop working. Kinda annoying. Additionally on a daily driven car, you tend to go through hoses at an alarming rate. I had to change mine twice a year, and they are not cheap. You might wanna see if just using a dedicated race pad and rotor will do the job first.

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post #14 of 28 Old 12-16-2011, 11:38 PM
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I've been using 2-1/2" shop vac hose for 6 years. The same hose for all 6 years. I didn't bother with flanges at the wheels. I just removed the splash guards (backing plates if you prefer), bent the hose to an oval shape and tie wrapped it to the bottom of the strut. That way it only has to articulate with the lower control arm instead of turning with the wheel.
Love the shop vac hose idea, I imagine that would hold up really well.
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post #15 of 28 Old 12-17-2011, 07:27 AM
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Quote:
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I've had the Quantum kit for a while. Used it on my daily driver, so on the hwy sometimes pads would get too cold, and stop working. Kinda annoying. Additionally on a daily driven car, you tend to go through hoses at an alarming rate. I had to change mine twice a year, and they are not cheap. You might wanna see if just using a dedicated race pad and rotor will do the job first.
Is it a huge deal to attach the hoses when you track the car and remove them in between events?
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post #16 of 28 Old 12-17-2011, 12:25 PM
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I put 6000+ miles a year on my car on the street and the hoses I've been using last a good long time. I've only replaced them once.
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post #17 of 28 Old 12-17-2011, 01:51 PM
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I have the quantum kit on my car though I've not been able to track the car yet though and so I haven't bothered with hooking up the hoses yet. The hoses hook up with just hose clamps. Same with the parts that hook to the bumper. The hoses are routed along the tie rod with zip ties generally so that's probably the hardest part.

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post #18 of 28 Old 12-17-2011, 03:56 PM
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Is it a huge deal to attach the hoses when you track the car and remove them in between events?
Its not really that bad of a deal, but its kinda paint in the ass. The way the hose has to be routed just to keep the hose out of wheels, its not something that I'd like to do trackside on regular occasions.

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I put 6000+ miles a year on my car on the street and the hoses I've been using last a good long time. I've only replaced them once.
I guess I should have clarified something. I drive my car a lot, 24k miles a year.

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post #19 of 28 Old 12-17-2011, 09:33 PM
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How big of PITA would it be to remove the fog lamp adapters, zip tie the ducts and re-install the fog lamp bracket & light?

I don't want to lose the lights for normal driving and am concerned with debris/running too cool on the street but I really need them for the 3-5 times I O/T.

Also, is the 2" kit worthwhile? The 3" doesn't look like it includes the fog lamp adapter.
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post #20 of 28 Old 12-18-2011, 07:46 AM
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Its not really that bad of a deal, but its kinda paint in the ass. The way the hose has to be routed just to keep the hose out of wheels, its not something that I'd like to do trackside on regular occasions.
Who says you gotta do it trackside? Do it on your driveway or in your garage before you head to the track, and after you get home.
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post #21 of 28 Old 12-18-2011, 08:59 AM
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How big of PITA would it be to remove the fog lamp adapters, zip tie the ducts and re-install the fog lamp bracket & light?

I don't want to lose the lights for normal driving and am concerned with debris/running too cool on the street but I really need them for the 3-5 times I O/T.

Also, is the 2" kit worthwhile? The 3" doesn't look like it includes the fog lamp adapter.
To each their own, but I never found those lights to be of any value on the street anyway and the lens' on my cracked so they, along with the 15 lb bracket/lower bumper support got ditched for weight savings. I've never run the brake ducts, though that was one of the upgrades planned for this winter, if I'm driving on the street or bedding in the pads, I'll just toss a couple old black t-shirts in the duct at the bumper to stop the airflow.
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post #22 of 28 Old 12-19-2011, 01:55 PM
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I can see the value of the fog lights if your headlight lenses are dirty and you do not want to waste money replacing them for occasional night driving (I used to do the same). However, that front bracket does weight a great deal and it is so far over the front end it's weight somewhere you do not want it. I think it's wise to get rid of it if you're going for handling of some kind.

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post #23 of 28 Old 12-19-2011, 03:59 PM
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Wouldn't be very wise for a car that sees any kind of street miles to remove the front bumper.

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post #24 of 28 Old 12-19-2011, 10:40 PM
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I can see the value of the fog lights if your headlight lenses are dirty and you do not want to waste money replacing them for occasional night driving (I used to do the same). However, that front bracket does weight a great deal and it is so far over the front end it's weight somewhere you do not want it. I think it's wise to get rid of it if you're going for handling of some kind.
If your headlight lenses are foggy, just use the cleaning kit on them, I had a friend who used that stuff and it works well and is pretty cheap too.
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post #25 of 28 Old 12-20-2011, 08:11 AM
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If you get rid of the brackets your front fasica will flex and crack because the brackets are also supporting the fascia.
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post #26 of 28 Old 12-20-2011, 02:38 PM
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If you get rid of the brackets your front fasica will flex and crack because the brackets are also supporting the fascia.
It bolts to the lower center front part of the bumper cover, I could see mine would shake a little at idle due to the lopey cam and was told that it was visibly vibrating on track, so I simply ran zip ties from those bolt holes to the rad support so it was tucked up better, but I ran the car for 5 different events with the bracket gone before I zip tied it and there's no cracking. The bumper cover's way too flexible to crack from a little vibration. The paint didn't crack either.
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post #27 of 28 Old 12-21-2011, 03:25 PM
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I will admit that I had some cracking in my front bumper after removing the fog light bracket. However, it is the little decorative grill parts near the bottom of the central opening. And they where already broken a bit, so no telling if the additional breakage would have happened anyways. Honestly, I doubt the bracket is needed without the fogs, and I think the benefits outweigh any possible downside. Looking at before and then 2 years after pictures, you cannot see any additional deformation of the bumper. Just my 2 cents.

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post #28 of 28 Old 12-28-2011, 02:30 PM
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Is there a concern with the bumpers cracking on SN95s?

I couldn't get a good look as the car is too low.....The last thing I want is damage to the car.
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