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post #1 of 21 Old 11-24-2011, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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traction

so I open track my cobra on occasion. I make 635hp. Needless to say traction can be a challenge. Especially when coming out of a corner. Will a mm torque arm help much? How much? Thanks...


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post #2 of 21 Old 11-24-2011, 08:52 PM
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It helps a lot.


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post #3 of 21 Old 11-24-2011, 10:46 PM Thread Starter
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It helps a lot.
I'm glad to hear that. Can you please be a bit more specific? I did take the time to scrub previous posts, but nothing really hit the nail on the head.

so in terms of percentages, can I expect to see a 30% increase in traction? Does most of the improvement come from the pinion angle change and hence loading of the LCA's? Just looking to understand.

And yes I understand that the PHB will be a part of the equation, but that's just icing on the cake from the handling perspective.

thanks in advance!

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post #4 of 21 Old 11-25-2011, 01:15 AM
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It's not the pinion change exactly but most of the improvement probably comes from the change in Instant Center (tires' forces work with the suspension to plant themselves even harder) and the fact that the torque arm doesn't have to apply itself one bit to keeping the rear end located laterally, so it's free to do its job a lot better than the stock configuration. The downside is a tendency to wheel-hop under hard braking, especially if you shock the driveline with a flubbed downshift. But the upsides are so good, I had to re-learn how to drive my car, so I could quit driving around bad behavior that didn't exist anymore and take proper advantage of the different suspension.

But, it can't change the laws of physics. You'll be able to put power on a lot earlier, but only to the extent that the car's position and steering angle don't overwhelm the front tires.
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post #5 of 21 Old 11-25-2011, 01:44 AM
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What MFE said. The TA also holds the pinion angle constant, thereby preventing axle wrap (axle wind-up) under hard acceleration. Axle wrap destabilizes rear grip by causing bushing deflection, bind, wheel hop, etc.

When installing the TA you also remove the UCA's (along with adding a panhard bar or watts link). This lowers the roll center which further stabilizes the rear end.

Compared with the stock 4-link, the addition of a TA/PHB enhances rear grip somewhere between 25-50% according to my personal butt dyno. YMMV.

If you really want to improve rear grip, the TA/PHB is just a part of the equation. Tires, springs, ride height / LCA angle, swaybar (or lack thereof) also play big roles.

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post #6 of 21 Old 11-25-2011, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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One last question fellas: So i'm running a trickflow Diff cover and a magnaflow over the axle catback. Will I have to modify or remove these? What are my options here? The car mostly see's street duty, so I don't want to get too crazy...

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post #7 of 21 Old 12-02-2011, 08:26 PM
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Noticed you have an 01. Since you asked about a T/A I assume you are running a stick axle and not the IRS. If the latter, it might be better to go with some stuff from Full-Tilt Boogie (Full Tilt Boogie Racing) to get the IRS to work better.
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post #8 of 21 Old 12-02-2011, 09:31 PM
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You can always run a 3 link short or long upper arm with helm joints.
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post #9 of 21 Old 12-03-2011, 03:26 AM
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One last question fellas: So i'm running a trickflow Diff cover and a magnaflow over the axle catback. Will I have to modify or remove these? What are my options here? The car mostly see's street duty, so I don't want to get too crazy...
You will have to have the tailpipes modified. The x/h pipe will need to be modified to clear the torque arm cross member. I took my car to an offroad truck shop and let them cut and weld away on the exhaust. Diff cover should be fine. If it clears the rear sway bar, it'll clear the phb bracket.

I love my torque arm on the street. It's absolutely wonderful in the rain. FYI...my car makes half the power yours does.

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post #10 of 21 Old 12-06-2011, 11:00 AM
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the TA helps ALOT! plus u will have a phb which helps with predictability and stabilty
if u run LCAs with sperical ends (no more binding in your rearend suspension) this will even help more, plus the car will be much more consistent


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post #11 of 21 Old 12-06-2011, 09:00 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by qtrracer View Post
Noticed you have an 01. Since you asked about a T/A I assume you are running a stick axle and not the IRS. If the latter, it might be better to go with some stuff from Full-Tilt Boogie (Full Tilt Boogie Racing) to get the IRS to work better.
Yes. I swapped to an SRA back in 2004.

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post #12 of 21 Old 12-07-2011, 10:56 AM Thread Starter
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Question as I get ready for this project. As for the shocks/springs portion of the equation, I currently running Tokico D-specs and eibach sportlines in the rear. Will this work?

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post #13 of 21 Old 12-08-2011, 12:10 AM
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Nope. Too soft

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post #14 of 21 Old 12-08-2011, 09:30 AM
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Question as I get ready for this project. As for the shocks/springs portion of the equation, I currently running Tokico D-specs and eibach sportlines in the rear. Will this work?
If you are going to use Maximum Motorsports, read this link here. Some good info: Maximum Motorsports Torque-arm FAQs : Maximum Motorsports, the Latemodel Mustang Performance Suspension Leader!
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post #15 of 21 Old 12-08-2011, 02:01 PM
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Coming out of slow 2nd gear corners I used to have to slowly roll into the throttle or go up in smoke and maybe lose the rear end. Now I just plant the throttle and hold on.

The other difference it that before if the car started to push a little I would just feed it more throttle to loosen up the rear and then the front would bite and the car would rotate. Now when it starts to push I have to ease up a little because there is no way to loosen up the rear with the throttle. I'm going to a bigger sway bar to try to move it back toward neutral. I have already gone up in rear spring rate.

TA/PHB does a great job of fixing my 1978 Fairmont.

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post #16 of 21 Old 12-09-2011, 02:04 PM Thread Starter
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Coming out of slow 2nd gear corners I used to have to slowly roll into the throttle or go up in smoke and maybe lose the rear end. Now I just plant the throttle and hold on.

The other difference it that before if the car started to push a little I would just feed it more throttle to loosen up the rear and then the front would bite and the car would rotate. Now when it starts to push I have to ease up a little because there is no way to loosen up the rear with the throttle. I'm going to a bigger sway bar to try to move it back toward neutral. I have already gone up in rear spring rate.

TA/PHB does a great job of fixing my 1978 Fairmont.
78' fairmont. Ain't that the truth. lol

So I think I'll replace the springs all the way around as well since I have cut eibach progressives in front and sportlines in back.

Any suggestions? I don't want the 4x4 look back, but performance is predominant here. So i'll sacrific looks if I have to. Remember this is a part-time OT'er at best...

HP sports?

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post #17 of 21 Old 12-09-2011, 02:58 PM
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H&R Race up front and H&R T/A springs (390-430lb) in the rear. Bilstein HDs. Firm yet comfortable on the street. OT'd it exactly in street trim.

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post #18 of 21 Old 12-12-2011, 07:58 AM
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78' fairmont. Ain't that the truth. lol

So I think I'll replace the springs all the way around as well since I have cut eibach progressives in front and sportlines in back.

Any suggestions? I don't want the 4x4 look back, but performance is predominant here. So i'll sacrific looks if I have to. Remember this is a part-time OT'er at best...

HP sports?
HD Bils,H&R Race up front w/ Super Race on the rear. With TA it actually rides better than when I had the Race springs on the rear. Going up in rear bar to reduce push. MM said I can't go up any more in rear springs w/o getting new shocks.

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post #19 of 21 Old 12-13-2011, 09:16 PM
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I can't even put into words how much of a difference my TA made for me, the car was so loose it was ridiculous, now it's got so much more traction it's crazy.

That being said, with 635 HP, you're probably still going to have traction issues.
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post #20 of 21 Old 12-13-2011, 09:46 PM Thread Starter
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I can't even put into words how much of a difference my TA made for me, the car was so loose it was ridiculous, now it's got so much more traction it's crazy.

That being said, with 635 HP, you're probably still going to have traction issues.

Yep. Agreed. That's why Fat/Sticky tires won't be departing the 'equation' anytime soon...

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post #21 of 21 Old 12-16-2011, 07:04 AM
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Id go with the mm/bilstein sports. Over the hd's. They are stiffer and perfect for when u go to coilovers allthe way around (deff still streetsble). Im running them

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