Budget autocross handling on 86 notch. - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 11-15-2011, 08:24 PM Thread Starter
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Budget autocross handling on 86 notch.

The car is being built for the GRM challenge so budget is all important.

Healthy 351 motor and manual trans, open rear. LSD going in this weekend.

Crappy set up for drag racing when bought.

I have picked up so far

Koni adjustables (installed)

Steeda Pro Kit springs (installed)

Steeda hollow front sway bar (installed)

Steeda caster/camber plates

BBK frame rail connectors

UPR bumpsteer kit

Solid rear lower control arms

A pair of Steeda upper relocated control arms (bolt to axle style)

I am building a panhard bar.

I am expecting to do front control arm bushings with poly when they come out.

I have a 2.3 93 parts car, are these spindles the better style?

What else should I be seeking to make this thing handle like it's on rails. BTW I hate understeer but enjoy a touch of oversteer, it suits my style.

i am not a novice driver.

The following pic shows how badly she turns with really crappy drag set up



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post #2 of 13 Old 11-15-2011, 08:28 PM Thread Starter
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Steeda uppers



anybody who can seriously help me with set up, alignment, and any other serious help please feel free to jump in

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post #3 of 13 Old 11-17-2011, 02:12 AM
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post #4 of 13 Old 11-17-2011, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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255/55/16 Hoosier R6s, take offs unfortunately but the budget precludes new
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post #5 of 13 Old 11-17-2011, 08:17 PM
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Steeda uppers



anybody who can seriously help me with set up, alignment, and any other serious help please feel free to jump in
I think I saw those Steeda pieces on e-bay - almost picked them up myself. Since you are building a PHB, wait until that is done and installed, remove both stock uppers and replace the P/S with one of the Steeda pieces, thus creating a PM3L. This will pretty much eliminate the upper link bind common to the stock 4-link. The only concern I'd have is the strength of the one Steeda arm. That is why I didn't buy them - that and what I considered a high buy it now price. I'm running my own PM3L using a one-off rod-ended upper. Car was transformed.
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post #6 of 13 Old 11-17-2011, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
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Those are the ones, and it was the easy way to build a decent 4 link so i jumped in, before I found that auction I was going to build my own upper links. Both units are in excellent condition.

i have built 4 links with a PHB before for other projects so i understand the best location of the bar.

How does the parts list for the front end sound to you?


Last edited by aussiesmg; 11-17-2011 at 09:55 PM.
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post #7 of 13 Old 11-18-2011, 06:55 AM
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i have built 4 links with a PHB before for other projects so i understand the best location of the bar.
I see - so essentially you are doing your own "5-link" a la Steeda.

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How does the parts list for the front end sound to you?
The 86's k has the narrower design a-arm pick-ups. This means that your front track will be 1" narrower than a later v8 car. With the extra weight of the 351 and the added traction of the 5-link, I'm guessing the thing will push badley. I'd find a later v8 k or go after market. As for the 2.3L 93 spindles, they are the same as the 86 - designed for the smaller 10" rotors so no benefit there. To get the 11" brakes, you need the 87-93 v8 spindle and all the related brake hardware (except the M/C and prop valve - the 86's are fine).

On my 86 I added the sn95 Cobra brakes up front (SSBC rear disc conversion) and used the later sn95 a-arms which are 1.25" longer than the Fox chassis arms on the stock k-member. In combination, this extended my front track by the full 2.5" over stock, and about 1.5" over the later v8 car's front track. This combo went a very long way towards eliminating the Fox chassis' tendancy to push. With my PM3L set-up in the rear plus .5" spacers on each rear axel, the rear sticks pretty good too. I can use more rubber (running 245/45/17s on a 8" wheels all around), and a stickier compound, but as it stands not a bad combo - pretty balanced.
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post #8 of 13 Old 11-18-2011, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for that info, I am tracking an aftermarket K member as we speak.

probably not going to be able to do a 5 lug brake swap due to the budget unless I steal a wrecked V8 87+ car along the way

Any idea on the best alignments settings?
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post #9 of 13 Old 11-18-2011, 09:10 PM
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Thank you for that info, I am tracking an aftermarket K member as we speak.

probably not going to be able to do a 5 lug brake swap due to the budget unless I steal a wrecked V8 87+ car along the way

Any idea on the best alignments settings?
From reading the 2011 Challenge Rules it appears that aftermarket K members are not permitted:

#8

Modifications may be made to the original unibody or body, body panels and frame for engine and suspension swaps and modifications, but only to the extent necessary to perform the change. This can include removing portions of the stock unibody and frame and replacing them with corresponding sections from a donor production car, or clearancing for engine and suspension modifications.


Is a K member not a frame or not?

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post #10 of 13 Old 11-18-2011, 10:29 PM Thread Starter
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Fox body cars are a unibody chassis and as such they do not have a frame.

A crossmember is not a frame anyway, as they are often swapped or modded to clearance engine swaps.

You make an interesting point though, I shall inquire


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post #11 of 13 Old 11-19-2011, 05:37 AM
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Any idea on the best alignments settings?
As much caster as the car will take and the ability to gain as much camber as possible. Start with the settings MM suggests and adjust to conditions and tire usage (http://www.maximummotorsports.com/co...MMCC7989r6.pdf).
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post #12 of 13 Old 11-21-2011, 11:54 AM
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The 86's k has the narrower design a-arm pick-ups. I'd find a later v8 k or go after market.

On my 86 I added the sn95 Cobra brakes up front (SSBC rear disc conversion) and used the later sn95 a-arms which are 1.25" longer than the Fox chassis arms on the stock k-member. In combination, this extended my front track by the full 2.5" over stock, and about 1.5" over the later v8 car's front track. This combo went a very long way towards eliminating the Fox chassis' tendancy to push.
Just curious, but why go through the trouble of swapping the k-member when the longer arms would probably be the cheaper and easier solution? It also happens to be the solution you went with.
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post #13 of 13 Old 11-21-2011, 05:51 PM
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Just curious, but why go through the trouble of swapping the k-member when the longer arms would probably be the cheaper and easier solution? It also happens to be the solution you went with.
Good question. The OP wants to run a particular class so he may be class limited as to acceptible mods. In my case, I'm not class limited. For example, I run A/X and while the 93 Cobra R front brakes are the same as the sn95 Cobra (update/backdate rules - same line), the a-arms are not, so they are not legal in the SP class I wanted to run in. To stay legal, I'd have to go with the later v8 k and stock Fox chassis a-arms. Ultimately, I decided to forget class rules. At that point, I knew I wanted an MM k-member but for the time being getting back the lost camber and widening the front track became my priorites while keeping the wheel/tire package under the fender; hence my choice of the longer sn95 arms. When I put in the MM K, I'll have to use the Fox chassis a-arms in order to keep the wheel/tire package under the fender and will actually lose about an inch of track width over what I have now. But, I'll gain some weight savngs off the nose, gain revised suspension geometery and gain a little more wheel base which balances the car. It's always trade offs.

Last edited by qtrracer; 11-21-2011 at 06:28 PM. Reason: added stuff
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