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post #1 of 38 Old 10-01-2011, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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PM3L

Still trying to put a combination together. Do you use a rear swaybar with a panhard bar on the PM3L?

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post #2 of 38 Old 10-02-2011, 09:37 AM
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You need some kind of lateral control mechanism. I suppose you could use a Watts, but then if you had the money for that you wouldn't be doing a Poor Man's 3 Link, would you?

Whether you use a swaybar depends on your philosophy on spring rates. I'd bet that 99.9% of guys do use one.

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post #3 of 38 Old 10-02-2011, 12:42 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the info.
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post #4 of 38 Old 10-02-2011, 09:50 PM
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With a PM3L, you need a PHB or Watts to contol lateral movement; no choice on this. Whether you use a rear bar or not may depend on the PM3L design. Let's say you are using one stock upper with the rubber bushings. To some extent these will still add wheel rate from "bind" despite only controilling for/aft axle roll because the stock bushings are sill bonded to the sleave and the ends still bite into the mounts to prevent rotation. So you might get away with using a mild rear spring and no rear bar. On the other hand, if you are using a PM3L design similar to mine (rod-ends), there is no bind. You need higher rate springs just as you would with a T/A and you will need the rear bar. In my case, I'm using the MM adjustable bar in the .75" solid bar configuration. With .5" spacers in the rear and the wider front track from the use of the longer sn95 a-arms and the MM front bar (lower rate than stock), this rear bar on the lightest setting is nearly prefect with this set-up. I want to try one degree firmer to see if I can get the car to rotate a little better, but until I try that it's pretty good as is.
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post #5 of 38 Old 10-03-2011, 03:32 PM
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Lateral location device, as said above, is under the "need" column. Without it, well, you won't have a working car.

I'm guessing a majority of people use some kind of rear bar, but nothing says you need to. Totally up to you. Stiffer springs are suggested though. I tried the PM3L with H&R Sport springs. Rode pretty nice but rolled like a pig. I was using the stock rear GT bar with it.

Do not use rubber bushings in the upper control arm. It, basically, doesn't work. Do what qtracer did and go heim joints on both ends of the control arm. I tried all new stock style rubber. No good.

1989 Mustang GT: 5.0, 5spd --- Sold. SVO brakes, MM suspension bits, 331ci, X pipe.

2012 Mustang V6PP 6spd MT --- Daily Driver, D Stock auto crosser, maybe track days some time...
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post #6 of 38 Old 11-25-2011, 11:41 AM
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qtrracer, I forget if you told me this before and I can't find it in my PMs: Wasn't there a site you recommended buying the rear UCA spherical bearing and UCA from? It wasn't a "normal" site like MM or LMR, but instead was some guy who builds stuff for CMC/AI cars, iirc. I'm finally ready to go PM3L. Any advice appreciated.

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post #7 of 38 Old 11-26-2011, 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by aurdraco View Post
qtrracer, I forget if you told me this before and I can't find it in my PMs: Wasn't there a site you recommended buying the rear UCA spherical bearing and UCA from? It wasn't a "normal" site like MM or LMR, but instead was some guy who builds stuff for CMC/AI cars, iirc. I'm finally ready to go PM3L. Any advice appreciated.

Casey
Sent you a PM.
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post #8 of 38 Old 09-09-2013, 11:01 PM
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Question for the PM3L auto-xers out there:

So, I now have 3 PM3L events under my belt. During my third one, which was this past Sunday, when I was off the gas, the car turned like a sumbitch (finally!). However, when on the gas and trying to turn, it didn't turn nearly as well. I didn't know why until a spectator told me that the car was picking up the inside front tire while accelerating out of corners (setup was different and tires were ####ty during first two events). Apparently, the onlookers were quite impressed by how hard the car was picking up the front tires! I clearly need to add more rear spring, right? Unfortunately, I failed to get video.

After the first 6 runs, I raised the PHB two notches, so about 3 inches?, to dial out some rear roll. My next run, after lunch, felt even better despite cold tires. Over the course of the next 4 runs, I dropped 1.5 seconds (80-second course for me) even though I had plateaued during the morning session and the car turned in like never before. Spectators said the car wasn't picking the front up as much after the bar change.

Car setup (front):
~3100 lbs. with me in it '92 notchback
8" 425# front coil overs
Koni yellow SA struts (set nearly at full soft)
~-3* camber
94-95 spindles
SN95 FCAs
small front sway bar (the blue bar, stock 4-banger bar?)
17*9s with old 255 BFG R1s (not ideal, just what I had lying around after my other old tires proved to be rocks. They turned out to be pretty darn grippy)

(rear):
350-390 H&R conventional TA springs
Koni yellow SA shocks (set nearly at full soft)
weight jacker rear LCAs
PM3L with passenger-side spherical-bushinged UCA
28mm hollow rear sway bar ('98 cobra)
Grigg's adjustable PHB, initially set at it's lowest setting
18*9s with old 285 Hoosier R6s (apparently mega grippy!)

Wheel rate calculations:
Front: ?? I can't find the foxbody with SN95 FCA wheel rate conversion %
Rear: 175-195

Suggestions on new rear spring rate? Other suggestions?

Thanks,

Casey
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post #9 of 38 Old 09-10-2013, 07:42 AM
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Maybe less front spring and bigger bars?
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post #10 of 38 Old 09-10-2013, 08:54 AM
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Less front spring? That's crazy talk! hehe

I used to have 300# springs up front but those got sold when I got the 425#s. I don't really drive the car on Boston's streets anymore, so I was planning on sticking with big springs/small bar up front.

I'm hoping Jack can tell us what the fox with SN95 FCA coilover wheel rate conversion % is so that we can bench race some spring rates. For the life of me, I can't find that rate anywhere but I know he posted it somewhere in the past.

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post #11 of 38 Old 09-10-2013, 01:33 PM
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Well, here's the thing about the SN control arms. The conventional spring is located pretty much in the same place as a Fox control arm. The difference in length is from there out to the ball joint. Since the motion ratio is partially derived the SAI, the angle of the strut will have a bearing. For bench racing purposes, I'd use the Fox conversion factor of 25% conventional to 90% C/O; the longer arm may give you a different ratio but not by much.

Even here, your front springs are way mismatched to the rear assuming the PM3L yields a similar result as a TA. I get F: 382#.5; R: 182# (avg of the range). That's 200#s difference. Reduce the front rate, increase the rear rate and maybe adjust the balance with a bar? I imagine the ride is not pretty.

On my 86, I was having some serious snap over-steer with H&R Super Race conventionals (260-300 static; 140# avg range) in the rear with my PM3L and 300# C/Os in front (270#). 130# difference. When I went to the T/A I left the same spring combo and still had the problem. I went up to the same entry level T/A springs as you (182# avg; 88# difference) and moved my rear bar up one tighter. Problem nearly solved. And the car rides a bunch better due I think to the better resonance match. MM tech (not Jack) said I need th higher rate T/A conventionals, but thought I'd play with rear bar settings first.
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post #12 of 38 Old 09-10-2013, 03:34 PM
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Did you ever play around with anti-squat brackets on yours? I'm debating having some ala Mathis fabbed up since I can't seem to find any reasonablly priced ones for sale for foxes. I am assuming that the S197 units from Whiteline won't work.
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post #13 of 38 Old 09-12-2013, 02:11 PM
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Okay, next question, (since the last one got such an overwhelming response):

What would you say the ballpark wheel rate difference should be for a PM3L auto-x mustang? I think I've seen the number +100# front vs. rear thrown around on c-c before.

IF that is a good place to start, then I may be looking at stepping down the front springs to 375 and upping the rears to the 415-515 TA springs. Pro) This puts the front spring at the upper edge of what MM says is the range for a Koni SA sport, which I have on the car now. Con) I have to buy two sets of springs (although not terribly expensive, especially if I buy used).

Alternate option is to keep the 425s up front and bump up the rears to a 250# rear coil over (or find a 550# rear conventional spring). Con) Fronts remain, according to MM, outside the best range for Koni SA yellows. Con) Unsure if rear Koni SA yellows can handle that much wheel rate (I would assume so but MM's guide is blank for this line item). Con [if applicable]) Rear koni coil over conversion more expensive, harder to find used.

Thoughts, please?
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post #14 of 38 Old 09-12-2013, 08:50 PM
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Sorry - been trying to get the 86 ready for a Sunday event.

Nope - never played with anti-squat. The two designs I favor don't consider this an issue for open track. KB has the bracket as does the Mathis design. But I'm not sure what advantage this would provide given the stress on the longer mount.

As for spring rates, keep in mind that the MM advice and the stuff discussed on C-C.com is for a F/R C/O set-up, not F C/O R conventional. With that said, you can look at the 100# spread and convert it to account for the conventional spring location. Example: F-300# C/O (270# wheel rate); R - 200# C/O (240# wheel rate). Spread = 30# To get a similar spread with a conventional rear spring would require a rate of just under 500# (500# conventional = a WR of 250#). This is the approach I'm taking.

Also, MM sells a kit that allows one to use C/O springs in the conventional rear spring location. Might be a lot cheaper to go that route - at least initially - than the other options.
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post #15 of 38 Old 09-13-2013, 09:48 AM
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Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it. I wish more of the PM3L people posted as much as you do, just so we had more data.

Re: anti-squat, thanks for pointing out the KB pieces; not sure how I didn't find those during previous searches before (weak Google-fu).

What I'd really love to know is, given that the anti-squat % of a PM3L is the exact same as for a quadra-bind, if raising the anti-squat would affect the optimum wheel rate differential balance. I.E., assuming the 100# wheel rate difference front to rear is the correct starting point that I am thinking I've heard before, would anti-squat brackets change that to 125? 150? 50? Darius indicated that he ditched his brackets on his TA-equipped the car after it became oversteer happy. That, to me, would indicate that perhaps they would work with softer rear spring rates. Would love to hear Darius' thoughts on this.

Should I still need to go with a much stiffer rear spring, in order to keep the 425s, it will probably be very difficult to find a rear conventional spring that goes higher than the 415-515 I've found. That one would average a wheel rate of 233 when, assuming a 100# split f/r, I'd need 283. Thus, to keep the 425s, I'd need to find something in the 550-575 convention range. While it would most certainly be ALOT easier to find coil over springs in the 550-575 range, I think I'd prefer to just try to find a used Koni coil over setup via c-c instead of messing with the coil springs in a stock location conversion.

It's never easy, heh.

The good news is that the current setup is at least moving in the correct direction. During my first auto-x of the year (big front bar, small rear bar, ####ty tires), I was 13% slower than my bench mark, Cmasy from c-c in his z06. Yes, 13%. I was DFL against miatas and vettes on an 80-second course . DFL I expected, just not by that much. At event #2, I added more negative camber to the front and reduced the gap to 12%, heh. Still DFL. At event 3 (small front bar, big rear bar, new rear LCAs, better tires), the gap dropped to 9% (and I got 2nd-to-DFL, hah)! That's still an ass-whooping but his z06 is on those super sticky Contis and he's a great driver (every time I ride with him, I'm amazed at how small the corvette feels from the inside, it's such a damn go-kart when it has grip). I'm trying to decide what a realistic goal of % difference should be so that I set realistic expectations for next year.

Thanks again.

Last edited by aurdraco; 09-13-2013 at 09:54 AM.
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post #16 of 38 Old 10-07-2013, 01:11 PM
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Thought I'd share my set-up with you. Still in the process of learning it and tuning it.

Car: 94 Mustang

Front:
Stock k-member and a-arms
H&R Super Race Springs (950-1050 lb/in)
Cobra Bilstein struts
V6 front sway bar
MM CC (-2.25* Camber, 4* Caster, slight toe out)

Rear:
MM Rear LCA
MM Panhard bar (bar is horizontal when car is stationary)
Passenger UCA with spherical bushing on axle side and urethane on body side (Driver UCA completely removed)
MM T/A Springs (375-440 lb/in)
MM valved Bilstein shocks
No rear sway bar

Tires:
Cobra 17x9 with NT-05

Been running this set-up all autocross season. Handles pretty well, I'm usually in the middle of the pack in raw time. Rear end still wants to step out on me some. Biggest plan for next year is some better tires (maybe the ZII's). Also contemplating running a larger front bar and adding the V6 rear bar back on.

94 Mustang 5.0- Race car, GT-40p heads, Explorer intake, E-Cam, MAC Headers, Full exhaust, Bilsteins, H&R Super Road Race, SN95 GT front and rear swaybar, MM Panhard and LCA, Auburn Racer diff, Cobra brakes, Hawk HP+ front and Carbotech AX6 rear, 285/30R18 Hoosier A6 on 18x9.5 Cobra R
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post #17 of 38 Old 10-07-2013, 01:32 PM
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5 0. The F/R spring rates appear pretty well balanced. I found on my 86 that I had to run more rear bar to avoid some front push (my front springs are 300# C/O -270# wheel rate; your w/r is about 250). My front rate was not well matched to my rear (H&R Super Race w/r of about 140; more than 130#s difference while yours is about 40# difference).

If your rear is stepping out, I'd look at the poly chassis bushing. I suspect some bind at the limit. I was running all rod ends on my PM3L and didn't have a rear end issue; was always a front push issue.
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post #18 of 38 Old 10-07-2013, 02:20 PM
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Quote:
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5 0. The F/R spring rates appear pretty well balanced. I found on my 86 that I had to run more rear bar to avoid some front push (my front springs are 300# C/O -270# wheel rate; your w/r is about 250). My front rate was not well matched to my rear (H&R Super Race w/r of about 140; more than 130#s difference while yours is about 40# difference).

If your rear is stepping out, I'd look at the poly chassis bushing. I suspect some bind at the limit. I was running all rod ends on my PM3L and didn't have a rear end issue; was always a front push issue.
Thanks. I tried to do as much research as I could beforehand. I haven't calculated the wheel rates, good to know they are well matched. I'll double check my chassis bushing.

I think my main issue are the tires, the NT05s are done (2 years of autocross with 2 drivers). Trying to just finish out the season and get driving experience.

94 Mustang 5.0- Race car, GT-40p heads, Explorer intake, E-Cam, MAC Headers, Full exhaust, Bilsteins, H&R Super Road Race, SN95 GT front and rear swaybar, MM Panhard and LCA, Auburn Racer diff, Cobra brakes, Hawk HP+ front and Carbotech AX6 rear, 285/30R18 Hoosier A6 on 18x9.5 Cobra R
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post #19 of 38 Old 10-24-2013, 01:47 PM
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What I'd really love to know is, given that the anti-squat % of a PM3L is the exact same as for a quadra-bind, if raising the anti-squat would affect the optimum wheel rate differential balance. I.E., assuming the 100# wheel rate difference front to rear is the correct starting point that I am thinking I've heard before, would anti-squat brackets change that to 125? 150? 50? Darius indicated that he ditched his brackets on his TA-equipped the car after it became oversteer happy. That, to me, would indicate that perhaps they would work with softer rear spring rates. Would love to hear Darius' thoughts on this.
Jack, Darius, any thoughts? I've purchased 375s to lower the front wheel rate and am still debating the merits of running the anti-squat brackets with the softer H&R 51650 RTA3 350-390# rear springs vs. just running the MM 43TA7 415-515# rear springs.

With the 375s and RTA3s, wheel rate difference front to rear is 152.5. That would drop to 105 with the 43TA7s.

TIA.

Casey
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post #20 of 38 Old 11-13-2013, 11:54 PM
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For those that have used the pm3l how much noise does it transmit? I picked up a dead stock 96 GT and threw on a panhard bar, TA springs, UPR upper diff mount and have tried both an old HPR upper and a stock upper and I hear a lot of thumping and straining.

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post #21 of 38 Old 11-14-2013, 07:52 AM
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Depends whether or not you retain your rubber bushings.
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post #22 of 38 Old 11-14-2013, 08:33 AM
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For those that have used the pm3l how much noise does it transmit? I picked up a dead stock 96 GT and threw on a panhard bar, TA springs, UPR upper diff mount and have tried both an old HPR upper and a stock upper and I hear a lot of thumping and straining.
My PM3L is rod-ended on both ends. A steel bushing at the axle (single shear); cut-down poly bushings for spacers on the chassis end. This set-up tramsmitted a lot of gear noise into the cabin. As for clunking or knocking, mine tended to do that only when going from steady state to on or off the throttle. By the way, I have similar noises with my 01 Cobra's IRS and the T/A that replced the PM3L on the 86. I also experienced a very loud clunking when the PM3L's axle-end fastener came loose. This damaged the rod-end a little so I was intending to replace it when the MM DOTD rotated to the T/As - so I went that route.
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post #23 of 38 Old 11-14-2013, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by qtrracer View Post
My PM3L is rod-ended on both ends. A steel bushing at the axle (single shear); cut-down poly bushings for spacers on the chassis end. This set-up tramsmitted a lot of gear noise into the cabin. As for clunking or knocking, mine tended to do that only when going from steady state to on or off the throttle. By the way, I have similar noises with my 01 Cobra's IRS and the T/A that replced the PM3L on the 86. I also experienced a very loud clunking when the PM3L's axle-end fastener came loose. This damaged the rod-end a little so I was intending to replace it when the MM DOTD rotated to the T/As - so I went that route.
I have a similar setup, rod-ended chassis-side and spherical bearing axle-side, and there's plenty of clunking and some gear whine. I'm glad qtrracer mentioned his clunking as that's pretty much exactly what mine does. However, as mine is now almost purely an auto-xer, it's no big deal. However, the few times I do have to drive it on the street, I worry that the UCA mount is going to be ripped out of the car, that's how bad it can sound. As Jack has said, the deflection in the chassis at the UCA measures in inches. I think a cure would be to run some sort of brace from my harness bar to the inside UCA mounting area. I'll think about that this winter.

All that said, it was still worth it though to be able to pick up the front tires coming out of corners on some old R6s at my last event. Now to dial in the spring rates!

Which rear TA springs did you get? I've got a set of 350-390s for sale that would work well with 300-325# front coil-overs, imo. If you went stiffer in the rear, I have a set of 8" 425s for sale as well.
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post #24 of 38 Old 11-17-2013, 12:48 AM
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Thank you for the insight guys. I was afraid I did something wrong. I get the straining noise with the rod ended HPR unit and just the start stop thunk with the stock upper. Def. going to have to weld the box up some on both sides. Regardless of the noise the ride is amazing compared to the stock worn out parts.
I am pretty sure I have the 390-430 torque arm springs(used) with Konis. I have 300 c/o in the front with temporarily borrowed c/o kit and MM Bilstein sports from my fox. I am trying to spend as little on this car as possible. It was 100% stock when I got it and pretty clean with only 95k miles on it. I did my first high speed autox in my fox this summer and it scared me. So I really needed a less powerful vehicle to get some seat time and get my nerve back and the 96 fits the bill.
Right now I just would like to find some Koni or Bilstein struts so I can give my fox its struts back. And of course it needs a new clutch and the seats are so uncomfortable I cant stand it.

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post #25 of 38 Old 03-29-2014, 06:20 PM
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The good news is that the current setup is at least moving in the correct direction. During my first auto-x of the year (big front bar, small rear bar, ####ty tires), I was 13% slower than my bench mark, Cmasy from c-c in his z06. Yes, 13%. I was DFL against miatas and vettes on an 80-second course . DFL I expected, just not by that much. At event #2, I added more negative camber to the front and reduced the gap to 12%, heh. Still DFL. At event 3 (small front bar, big rear bar, new rear LCAs, better tires), the gap dropped to 9% (and I got 2nd-to-DFL, hah)! That's still an ass-whooping but his z06 is on those super sticky Contis and he's a great driver (every time I ride with him, I'm amazed at how small the corvette feels from the inside, it's such a damn go-kart when it has grip). I'm trying to decide what a realistic goal of % difference should be so that I set realistic expectations for next year.
4th event with the PM3L today, good improvement. After switching from 425# front springs to #375s, rear springs from 350-390 to 415-515, and switching from crap tires to take-off Continental GT-Rs, I was "only" 7.5% slower than Cmasy as he once again got TTOD in his C5 Z06. The car felt amazing, turning in and gripping.

Also, I was finally not DFL, getting 7th out of 9th in class (and 3rd-8th were within 2 seconds of each other). I only took 2 runs on the Contis as I took my first 4 on my street tires (best time in the 79s, would have gotten spanked in the street tire class). During my 3rd run on the Contis, which felt faster, the car mysteriously died right before the finish. I'm confident that had I taken all 7 runs on the Contis (and if the car hadn't died on me,), I would have narrowed the gap even more.

Next up, anti-squat brackets AND *fingers crossed* aero.

Results below so you can see what I am going up against in this "anything goes" class. For the first time, I have hope that I can start fighting for 3rd.

1T 2004 Chevrolet Z06 68.189 Continental GT-Rs
2T 2004 Chevrolet Z06 70.517 Continental GT-Rs
3 2007 Ford Shelby GT 71.633 ???
4 2014 Porsche 981 Cayman S 71.997 ???
5 1993 Mazda Miata 72.627 ???
6 2003 Honda S2000 73.329 Hoosier A6
7 1992 Ford Mustang 73.337 Continental GT-Rs
8 1994 Mazda MX-5 Miata73.654 (only took 2 runs, tires unknown)
9 2003 Honda S2000 75.792 Hoosier A6
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post #26 of 38 Old 03-30-2014, 03:44 AM
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If by anti-squat brackets you mean the things that lower the rear pickup points of the LCA's, you'll be introducing rear roll steer into the equation. Maybe that's what you're going for, maybe not...


.

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post #27 of 38 Old 03-30-2014, 11:03 AM
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Mostly thinking about them because they are one of Mathis' old tricks and because I know the anti-squat with the PM3L is the same as with the quadrabind, iirc.
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post #28 of 38 Old 03-30-2014, 12:19 PM
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You trade off straight line hook for an axle that causes oversteer in roll.
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post #29 of 38 Old 03-30-2014, 03:02 PM
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After running the PM3L for three years, I think I'd stay away from the anti-squats. If you don't already have an adjustable rear bar, I'd recommend going in that direction first.
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post #30 of 38 Old 03-30-2014, 04:47 PM
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Are you inspecting your 3rd link and mounts/bushings after each event?
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post #31 of 38 Old 04-03-2014, 12:55 PM
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I've got two rear sway bars for now (stock and '98 cobra hollow), not looking to spend the $$ required to get an adjustable rear bar just yet.

I run a UCA with heim joints chassis side, spherical bushing axle side. As a result, I don't need to worry about rubber bushings being worked out. However, whenever I am under the car, which is often, I check things out. I will be doing a full nut and bolt Saturday.
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post #32 of 38 Old 04-08-2014, 12:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aurdraco View Post
I run a UCA with heim joints chassis side, spherical bushing axle side.
What brand spherical bushing do you run? I have the steeda. It's a pain to get tight, already destroyed one by the nut coming loose. Used locktite this time.

94 Mustang 5.0- Race car, GT-40p heads, Explorer intake, E-Cam, MAC Headers, Full exhaust, Bilsteins, H&R Super Road Race, SN95 GT front and rear swaybar, MM Panhard and LCA, Auburn Racer diff, Cobra brakes, Hawk HP+ front and Carbotech AX6 rear, 285/30R18 Hoosier A6 on 18x9.5 Cobra R
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post #33 of 38 Old 04-08-2014, 01:41 PM
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post #34 of 38 Old 04-09-2014, 11:51 AM
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Thanks. I was going to get those, but was already ordering something from Steeda.

94 Mustang 5.0- Race car, GT-40p heads, Explorer intake, E-Cam, MAC Headers, Full exhaust, Bilsteins, H&R Super Road Race, SN95 GT front and rear swaybar, MM Panhard and LCA, Auburn Racer diff, Cobra brakes, Hawk HP+ front and Carbotech AX6 rear, 285/30R18 Hoosier A6 on 18x9.5 Cobra R
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post #35 of 38 Old 05-20-2014, 08:54 PM
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5th event with the PM3L this past weekend. New additions to the car (just in case you've missed the pics I've plastered elsewhere):

Nascar COT splitter ($40)
ebay ricer "3d" ABS plastic wing ($100)
Basic tune from Decipha (haven't finished dialing it in yet due to base idle reset issues)

I did not add (yet) the anti-squat brackets. I know some of you recommended against them, but I find it hard to believe that if they help Fair's S197, why wouldn't they help a lowered foxbody? The only place the car really lacks traction is the first 10-20 seconds of the run, especially the launch; if I can pick up .2 seconds from the launch, that could translate to .3 or more seconds faster overall (see drag racers who usually gain 1.5 times their 60' reductions in the 8th mile). It all adds up and I just can't imagine the roll oversteer being that big of a deal when I can put a smaller rear bar and/or a larger front bar on.

No idea if the aero helped. Probably not if the faster s2000 driver and I were right on top of each other again (however, one section of the course was a straightaway for him whereas I had to jog it; see 1:03 on the video). Everyone kept telling me the wing needed to be higher, heh. Plus, at speed on the highway, you can see the wing flop around a bit (probably not stiff enough, might add some aluminum reinforcing on its backside).

This was also my second event on the Continental GT-Rs. I got 2.9 runs on them in March. Saturday, I made 10 runs. Takes them about 2 runs to get up to temp. I'm definitely leaving time on the table by not fully exploiting how grippy they get when warmed up. They definitely like to be tossed around and take an early set before a corner. My last runs in the morning (6 runs) were in the mid-high 69s (but with cones).

Anyhow, I think the car and I are continuing to improve. I beat the Porsche, that beat me by 1.3 seconds last time, by 1 full second. The faster s2000 driver and I remain neck and neck though, so maybe the Porsche just had a bad day. At the last event, I was 7.5% slower than 1st place. This event, I was 4.8% behind 1st place (different driver, still a corvette though). I was a mere half second out of the trophies in this anything goes R-compound class.

Auto-x 2, 2014
1T 2005 Corvette (Z06? Definitely cammed) 66.947
2T 2011 BWM M3 67.878
3T ???? Mustang S197 (remote reservoir shocks) 68.407
4T 2001 Mustang Cobra (stroker DOHC motor) 69.017
5T n/a 69.613
6 n/a 69.806
7 2003 Honda S2000 70.132
8 1992 Ford Mustang (me) 70.177
9 2014 Porsche 981 Cayman S 71.211
10 2003 Honda S2000 72.715
11 n/a 73.592
12 n/a (probably street tires) 77.203
13 n/a (probably street tires) 77.487

Anyhow, if you want to see what kind of courses we have up here in the NE SVT club, see the video below. However, turn down the sound. My wife surprised me with the GoPro (early birthday present!) and I mounted it to the dash behind the steering wheel...which rattles tremendously.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/2wlaniqe8z...%205-17-14.wmv
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