Front Suspension Upgrade ?'s for 93 Fox - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 10 Old 08-31-2011, 09:53 AM Thread Starter
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Front Suspension Upgrade ?'s for 93 Fox

So, I took my drag racer out around Infineon's Road Course and had a blast. I was even on my Nitto drag radials. I want to make it handle a little better and my car is due for shocks. My car sits really low so I bought some MM CC plates and I had John Griggs look at the car because I just want him to do my alignment. He lives about 4 miles from my house so I swung by so he could take a quick look before I brought it in for an alignment. He said that my front control arm bushings need to be replaced. My car is due for shocks, since I still have the originals on it and I really hate dealing with the front coil springs. I do not want to take the original control arms off to replace the bushings and then put those originals back on. I also want to make it ride better on the street. Right now it really follows grooves on the road especially under braking and the front bottoms out easily.

So, here is the plan. Replace the control arms with MM's non-offset arms and get one of their front coil-over conversions. Put Tokico D spec struts up front and D spec shocks on the back. Install the MM CC plates and put on a bump steer kit. I would take it to Griggs for the alignment, but I am sure he'll be pissed when he see's MM components on there. I can't afford his stuff! I am considering the reverse offset arms and the MM K-member, but that is a lot more money and time working on the car. I'll have to just do the arms now. I also have some 17" Pony's on the way with 275x40-17 Nitto 555 street tires on them.

Is this setup any good for a car that goes 3k miles a year on the street, sees 15 drag events a year, and if I am lucky will see 2 track days a year? What spring rates would you recommend for the coil-overs with the Tokico's? Car weighs nearly 3600lbs with me in it. John was trying to talk me into the Koni double adjustables for the front and his race shock minus the coil over conversion for the rear. That is just so much money. I think he started to accept my decision to get the Tokico's when he heard how little time I would spend on the road course vs the drag strip and street.

What do you guys think? Will it feel much better than it does now? Do I really want the Koni DA's? I currently have the original shocks and struts and Eibach Progressive springs.

Thanks,
Craig


1993 LX HB, Dart big bore 347, Ported Cobra Intake, 70mm TB, Edlelbrock 6037s, FTI custom emission friendly blower cam, 60lb inj, Bullet MAF, Vortech SQ Trim, TKO500, JBA Shorties, 3.55's, and Tweecer R/T
10.84 @ 128.5mph
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post #2 of 10 Old 09-01-2011, 08:55 PM
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I am a little confused. You said that you are buying the MM a-arms and C/O kit, but then later say you are thinking about the MM K and reverse off-set a-arms but those are too pricy. So, are you buying the a-arms seperately from the k-member? If so, which off-set? What are you doing for rear suspension mods aside from the shocks?

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post #3 of 10 Old 09-02-2011, 10:34 AM Thread Starter
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I want to keep the wheel in the middle of the wheelwell, so I would get the non-offset arms for use with the stock K-member. The problem is if I decide to get the MM K-member later, I would have to buy the arms again and get the reverse-offset arms if I don't want the wheels to get pushed forward .75 inches. I know it would handle better with the wheels forward, but I hate how it looks.

I can't do anything with the back right now. I just have Mega-bite Jr. rear lower control arms and Jegs tubular uppers. I can't afford the $1500 torque arm kit along with full length subframe connectors and exhaust mods to the 3 different H-pipes I run on the car.

I definitely need to do something up front. On the way back from the track Wednesday I was paying attention to how hard it hit some bumps. It seems to bottom out on pretty small bumps. I want the coil overs so I can raise the nose up a little to increase bump travel along with improve the ride and handling.

1993 LX HB, Dart big bore 347, Ported Cobra Intake, 70mm TB, Edlelbrock 6037s, FTI custom emission friendly blower cam, 60lb inj, Bullet MAF, Vortech SQ Trim, TKO500, JBA Shorties, 3.55's, and Tweecer R/T
10.84 @ 128.5mph
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post #4 of 10 Old 09-02-2011, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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For some reason I thought that I had to get control arms to go with coil overs. I guess I will just replace my bushings with new poly ones and then put the coil over kit on. MM suggests 250lb spring rate for a street/strip car.

Would aftermarket control arms help handling over stockers with poly bushings?

Anyone using Tokico D specs?

1993 LX HB, Dart big bore 347, Ported Cobra Intake, 70mm TB, Edlelbrock 6037s, FTI custom emission friendly blower cam, 60lb inj, Bullet MAF, Vortech SQ Trim, TKO500, JBA Shorties, 3.55's, and Tweecer R/T
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post #5 of 10 Old 09-02-2011, 02:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Need-a-cage View Post
For some reason I thought that I had to get control arms to go with coil overs. I guess I will just replace my bushings with new poly ones and then put the coil over kit on. MM suggests 250lb spring rate for a street/strip car.
On my 86 I'm using stock control arms (although sn95 as opposed to Fox length) with MM's Bilstein C/O kit and 300# springs. The car is primarily a street car with some autocross; it will not see the drag strip. This rate is about as much as I would go for a DD like mine. But the front suspension is not where I noticed as much improvement. When I got rid of the rear bind created by the converging uppers by replacing them with a PM3L and an MM PHB, the ride imrpoved dramatically as did the handling.

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Would aftermarket control arms help handling over stockers with poly bushings?
If simply a tubular form of the stock geometry, they are lighter and typically have improved bushing material (e.g., poly, etc.). The reduced weight and non-deflection characteristics of the bushing material will improve handling, although I'm not certain it would be noticable over a poly bushed stock arm running C/Os. the revised geometry arms especially coupled with the revised geometry of an aftermarket K is where the most improvement will be found.

Keep in mind, perhaps with the exception of a drag suspensioni car doing O/T, the typical novice driver can use a lot of improvement before the car needs to be modded. Maybe put some better dampers on the car with some good rubber and spend the next chunk of change doing some schools and events to get seat time.
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post #6 of 10 Old 09-02-2011, 03:41 PM
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With your obvious budget constraints, I'd keep the stock arms and just replace the bushings, if you decide to do a k-member later, then you can go with the a-arms. As stated above, the rear is where the car needs the most help anyway.
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post #7 of 10 Old 09-02-2011, 05:43 PM
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So you are gonna drag race the car most of the off street applications. With one or two track days....

I'd leave it the way you have it set up for drag racing. Any change you make for road racing usually will decrease the performance of drag racing.

I'm by far not an expert, but these are some conclusions that I've learned in the past...

For example:
Forward offset LCA's are for road racing. Reverse offset LCA's are for drag racing.
Your 250lbs front springs (for drag racing) when most RR front springs are much higher.
You want the weight transfer in drag racing, and not in RR.

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post #8 of 10 Old 09-22-2011, 10:16 AM
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this is a mess, ur gonna have one or the other, and be good at it. u cant build an awesome drag car and expect it to be a corner carver (my opinion, build an awesome corner carver, u can always go to the drag and run decent times) if u build a drag car forget about going around corners...

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post #9 of 10 Old 09-22-2011, 11:23 AM Thread Starter
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New plan after talking with MM. Front coil overs with 275lb spring and Koni single adjustables, so I can loosen up the rebound damping in the front while at the drag strip. Their Super Race H&R spring will go on the back because it is supposed to be a good match for the 275lb front coilover. Front control arm poly bushings or get the MM control arm for stock K-member. New Extreme Duty Adjustable rear control arms. This should be a good ride on the street, not too stiff in the front to hurt drag launches, stiff enough to have a lot less body roll than my current Eibach setup and stock shocks.

Down the road I will try to work on rear-end like get the torque-am and all the supporting parts.

What is PM3L. Poor Man's 3 Link? Is that just removing an upper? That seems like a bad idea for drag racing.

Thanks

1993 LX HB, Dart big bore 347, Ported Cobra Intake, 70mm TB, Edlelbrock 6037s, FTI custom emission friendly blower cam, 60lb inj, Bullet MAF, Vortech SQ Trim, TKO500, JBA Shorties, 3.55's, and Tweecer R/T
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post #10 of 10 Old 09-22-2011, 12:45 PM
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I run 275's on Koni DA's on my street car which is a dual purpose rig. I like them. It has more wheel rate then my track car. Although I really wish my track car had more wheel rate then it does, I still managed two second place finishes out of 3 races this summer. My street car would be quicker as they both sit. Sure it would be a little quicker with more then 275's on the front but it is a good compromise that can still scoot around a road course quite well.

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