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post #1 of 9 Old 05-10-2011, 09:42 PM Thread Starter
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opinion on rotors

I cracked my second rotor last race. every time a rotor cracked it was after a race. And I don't think it happened during a cool down lap cause I didn't feel it. So for whatever reason it must be cooling unevenly. I try and roll the car every time I come off track after a few minutes. Also, my brake ducts are pointed at the center of the rotor. the first set was power slots, and the second one was a centric plain face. they each happened after I think 4 races. has anyone had better luck with a certain brand?

edit: the centrics lasted 4 and a half races, plus 2 auto-x's so I got a little more life from them as well as the pads last longer.


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post #2 of 9 Old 05-11-2011, 08:03 AM
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Boy oh boy does that sound familiar. I am the king of broken rotors. I have probably broken a dozen in the last 2 years. I tried different brands,different pads,different cooling set ups and nothing really helped. I also would leave the complex and go ride around outside to try to cool them down and nothing really helped. The real problem was that the 13x1 rotor and twin piston PBR are just not up to the task in a heavy semi-fast car. Are you tappering the pads and have you clam-shelled a caliper yet? The twin piston floating caliper really heats up the rotor due to pad shape and uneven clamping force. I bought a pair of the Brembo Cobra R calipers from a fellow Corral member and that has eliminated "most" of the problems due to a better pad shape and a fixed and more rigid design. I still exercise "brake management" as they are still marginal under heavy track use due to the 1" thick rotor. We really need a larger heat sink of about 1 1/4" thick but I figured for $500 I would give it a try before I dropped big bucks for a Stop Tech kit or some equivalent. As of right now I have no plans to upgrade any further.


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post #3 of 9 Old 05-16-2011, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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I am tapering pads, but have not clam shelled a caliper yet. A brake upgrade is not an option for me financially right now. Just wondering if anyone has had better luck with a certian brand rotor.

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post #4 of 9 Old 05-16-2011, 07:24 PM
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Comes down to physics ... if you need more rotor mass, it won't matter what brand of rotor in the current size you put on there.


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post #5 of 9 Old 05-17-2011, 08:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loudnslow98gt View Post
I am tapering pads, but have not clam shelled a caliper yet. A brake upgrade is not an option for me financially right now. Just wondering if anyone has had better luck with a certian brand rotor.
The Cobra R brembos really did make a huge difference.Rotors are lasting way longer.Also I used to go thru 2 sets of pads a weekend and last year I used up 3 sets over 10 weekends.

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post #6 of 9 Old 05-19-2011, 06:18 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by j rick kirby View Post
The Cobra R brembos really did make a huge difference.Rotors are lasting way longer.Also I used to go thru 2 sets of pads a weekend and last year I used up 3 sets over 10 weekends.
now are they just a different caliper and use the same 13" rotor?

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post #7 of 9 Old 05-19-2011, 10:50 PM
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All cobra's use the same rotor.
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post #8 of 9 Old 05-20-2011, 07:38 AM
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now are they just a different caliper and use the same 13" rotor?
Yup it's just a easy bolt on with the same rotors. It does require different brake lines. Your car I suspect is way lighter than mine so they should work even better. Also I used to frequently boil the fluid so I flushed it before every event. Now I do it once before the season starts and that's it. My brake parts cost has gone way down. Also Wagoner has a lifetime warranty on rotors so when mine are shot I take them back and get replacements for free. Just don't tell them what you are doing.The parts guys always try to diagnose my brake problems so I just keep my mouth shut. They usually suggest that I should replace my calipers because they are dragging. I thank them for their help and go on my way.

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post #9 of 9 Old 05-20-2011, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by j rick kirby View Post
Yup it's just a easy bolt on with the same rotors. It does require different brake lines. Your car I suspect is way lighter than mine so they should work even better. Also I used to frequently boil the fluid so I flushed it before every event. Now I do it once before the season starts and that's it. My brake parts cost has gone way down. Also Wagoner has a lifetime warranty on rotors so when mine are shot I take them back and get replacements for free. Just don't tell them what you are doing.The parts guys always try to diagnose my brake problems so I just keep my mouth shut. They usually suggest that I should replace my calipers because they are dragging. I thank them for their help and go on my way.
Rick- You've got a PM...NASA stuff...

Which fluid are you running now that you only have to do it once a season?

Which pads are you using that are lasting you so much longer???

I also have the Brembo R's on my '97 Cobra, been running Carbotech XP8's front and rear because anything more aggressive would really overcome my Sumitomo HTRZIII's...

New tires coming next week. Hankook RS3's. Thinking of switching to the XP10's in the front, but I'm hesitant because I was under the impression they would wear faster. Currently getting 2 events out of a front set, and the backs are barely wearing...Need a bias adj but that's another story...

I've been swapping between MOTUL RBF600 and ATE SuperBlue, before every event. I've never boiled the fluid, and I'm wondering if my bleeding every event is overkill. It'd be nice to have someone else with similar setup share what's working for them...

Thanks!

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