k-member alignment & leveling car ? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 03-30-2011, 12:40 AM Thread Starter
rab
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k-member alignment & leveling car ?

putting a 87-93 5.0 k-member in a fairmont for the added width,and cause its getting a 5.0 5speed swap,ect,ect, also i welded up the stock seams on it to strength it, blasted and painted it.(i know its questionable to weather its good to weld up or not, but it was out so i figured why not)
well im ready to put the car back together now and have a few ?'s about aligning the k-member.

1. how close to level does the car need to be, with in a 1/4 inch 1/2,ect or dead on, also anyone have any good tips for getting the car level?

(also the car has no suspension on it its just a shell with doors and glass,all parts are blasted primed and painted, want to start putting it back together)

2. how close does it need to be plumb bobed with in a 1/16,1/8,ect?

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post #2 of 7 Old 03-30-2011, 11:29 AM
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I just did the MM k member on my 01 cobra. when i leveled the car measured the height of the rear from the floor to the torque box on each side and then i did the same for the front on the most forward point on the frame rail up to the firewall.

idk if your using the MM instructions but they arent too hard at all to follow. I got my height within 1/8'' and then as fare as measuring with the plumb bob that was pretty precise.

hope that helps


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post #3 of 7 Old 03-30-2011, 10:09 PM Thread Starter
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i got the car within a 1/8 of an inch today,the back of car is a 1/8 lower than the front, but both front measurement points measured the same, and the same goes for the rear, so i guess its close enough.

now i just need to start plumb bobin it.

but like i said im running a stock k-member and will not be able to hang the PB from the same points as if i had a MM k-member, also for the rear i will not be able to hang it from were the mm instructions say either, cause i added a set of wild rides upper and lower torque box reinforcements and welded all the stock TB seams along with the bottom reinforcement plate(iirc comp. engineering makes the bottom plate), and along with a homemade set of thru the floor subframe connectors.

well the bottom plate reinforcement that i welded in blocks/gets in the way of were you would plumbob it from the rear.
here is a link to the bottom plate im talking about
http://www.jegs.com/i/Competition%20...0002/-1?CT=999

im sure i can hang it from other spots and make something work to square this up, so if you have done this with a stock kmember throw me some ideas, as far as the rear goes i think i could just move it to the inside on the rear lower control arm pocket instead of the outside of the pocket.

hopefully you guys understand what im trying to say, cause its kind of hard to explain in words over the computer.

Last edited by rab; 03-30-2011 at 10:49 PM.
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post #4 of 7 Old 03-30-2011, 10:58 PM
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Stock K-member has very little adjustment to it. One side of the front attachment points has just bolts holes so no adjustment possible. So once you have that side bolted up, you can check the alignment of the k-member and make very small adjustment to the other side as it has only one small slotted hole and one regular hole.

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post #5 of 7 Old 03-31-2011, 04:01 AM
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The car can be pointing up or downhill when squaring the k-member. That won't matter at all. It can't be tilted side to side at all. That will effect the measurements in a way that will make the k-member not square in the chassis. The rocker panel box where the vertical seam meets it, is the best place to measure to.

For the front plumb bobs, remove the FCAs. Run the string through one of the FCA holes in the k-member. The string will tend the find the bottom of the hole, but you may have to jiggle it a bit to get it right at the bottom due to friction.

For the rear plumb bobs, I would drill a 3/8" hole with a uni-bit through the bottom of the torque box just below the front edge of the bolt. Then you can run the string through the hole and around the bolt threads. Just make sure that the hole is large enough that the string doesn't touch it.

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post #6 of 7 Old 03-31-2011, 11:39 PM Thread Starter
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well i put the k-member in today, tried squaring it up (eyeballed it) before i tightened the top 4 bolts, then snugged them up and strung the plumb bobs
( i had 2 of them) then marked the floor. i also had a buddy help me so i could get the tape measure tight and on point.

i got the car within a 1/16 front to rear both sides, and within a 1/8 diangeled.
i triple check it and even plumb bobed it after tighten all the bolts(8 of them) to spec, and was still correct/the same.

also as far as the PB hanging goes,,, for the front, i hung it off the control arm bolt hole towards the rear, but not the most rearward bolt hole cause that would have cosed me to run it into the k-member, so for the best way for me to explain this too everyone here goes,,, there a 4 bolts holes on each side of the k-member for the control arms, if you marked them 1234 1 being the front most bolt and 4 being the rear most (with k-member installed in the car) i hung it from bolt hole number 3.
for the rear i put the stock lower rear control arm bolt in (no control arm installed)and hung the string from the inside of the rlca pocket,same side as the mm instructions except on the inside pocket instead of the outside.

now this was on the first shot, so im wondering if the stock k-member would always be this close after installing it, or maybe i just got lucky.

Last edited by rab; 04-01-2011 at 12:08 AM.
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post #7 of 7 Old 04-01-2011, 10:25 PM Thread Starter
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anyone else measure/align the stock k-member?
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