I know that some people have done this combination, and I was wondering how well does it work? Do Griggs, and MM kmembers mount the wheels in the same location if they use the same offsets on the a-arms?
I don't want to pay for Griggs a-arms because they are expensive, and they don't look overly street friendly.
The girggs arms are FINE on the street and for track usage too.
I haven't seen their current design, but I seem to remember griggs adding a cross tube just like the MM design because too many folks were saying the design without the arm didn't look strong enough.
Whether that cross tube adds significant strength or not is academic. The arms are more than up to street use. Thousands of Mustangs have been using them for a long time and personally I know of only two failures and these were on road-raced cars.
Also if you use MM new negative offset a-arms that mount the wheels in the stock locations does that mean that the frontend will not see an kind of difference in its geometry?
Depends on what geometry you are talking about. The offset of the A-arm simple determines where in the wheel well the wheel/tire ends up. the forward offset arm moves the wheel/tire forward 0.75", that is all.
Other aspects of the front suspension's geometry (track width, roll center location, Ackerman, etc...) are mostly unaffected buy A-arm offset.
I'm curious about this as I was wanting to run a Steeda 5 Link II, but have read that it works better than the torque arm setups from griggs/MM with the stock frontend geometry, but that the torque arm setups work better with the improved geometry of the MM/Griggs front suspensions.
What does "works better" mean? I can only assume it means the car is more balanced and doesn't understeer as much compared to a TA/PHB setup. (If that's not the case, ignore the next two paragraphs.)
This is actually a problem. The car is more balanced because the rear doesn't have as much grip as it would with a TA/PHB setup. The solution here is not to reduce rear grip levels (that would be like putting a restrictor on your engine to keep from spinning your tires at the drag strip!)
Instead, the solution is to increase the front grip to match the grip levels of the rear end.
I'm doing a Modular swap so the stock kmember isn't an option.(modding a factory Modular kmember to work in a foxbody moves the motor way forward among other things, and I don't like that idea) I'm not so against running a torque arm setup, but I would prefer to go with the Steeda 5 Link II if it would work properly with my front suspension.
OK -- I'm confused
First you say that the Steeda rear setup works better with the factory front K-member.
Then you say that you don't want to run a factory K-member because of the modular swap.
Then you say you WANT to run the Steeda setup.
Does the Griggs torque arm require exhaust modification like the MM one does? Aren't they mounted differently?
Depends on the exhaust setup, I would think. My griggs K-member works fine with both shorty and most common longtube headers, though I'm sure there's an oddball setup out there some where that might not fit.