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post #1 of 21 Old 10-21-2010, 01:39 PM Thread Starter
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Cost to install subframe connectors?

Hey all

So I'm trying to find someone local (upstate south carolina) to install subframe connectors. The only place I've found so far wanted $370 and 10 days to do it. Does that sound as crazy to you as it does for me?

Any suggestions? I'm located in Clemson, SC.
EDIT: Anyone heard of Amazon tuning? They're in Anderson and just said $249 drop it off in the morning, pick it up in the evening. That sounds much better to me. He says he welds the entire length of the subframe connector, and reinforces the torque boxes. Is there any reason this would be a bad idea?


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Last edited by Uncle Humjaba; 10-21-2010 at 01:53 PM.
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post #2 of 21 Old 10-21-2010, 01:54 PM
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What type of subframe connectors? I bought full lengt powdercoated Maximum Motor Sports subframe connectors with the seat braces for $125 or so and paid a well known performance shop $125 to weld them in while I watched.

I'd say $250 including the subframe connects would be about right if they are using good parts.


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post #3 of 21 Old 10-21-2010, 01:57 PM
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We make our own frame connectors as most chassis shops do. labor and material runs $250 for under the floor to $450 for through the floor. Installation usually takes a day.

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post #4 of 21 Old 10-21-2010, 05:21 PM Thread Starter
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Hrm. MM full length, bare, and neither quote included the price of the connectors from MM (~$140).
So does anyone have any recommendations for shops around the Clemson/Greenville area? I have class every day so traveling more than an hour or so during the week doesn't really work.

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post #5 of 21 Old 10-21-2010, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uncle Humjaba View Post
Hrm. MM full length, bare, and neither quote included the price of the connectors from MM (~$140).
So does anyone have any recommendations for shops around the Clemson/Greenville area? I have class every day so traveling more than an hour or so during the week doesn't really work.
Some shops will recommend the bare connectors because with the powdercoated connectors you have to grind off the powdercoat everywhere you want to weld. It still seems to get hot, melt and drip on you though.

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post #6 of 21 Old 10-21-2010, 10:14 PM
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i do them in my garage behind my house for 150 ( not including SFC's) and take about 3 days (I work and hour or 2 after I get home from my 8-5 job) So a legit shop should easily be only a day.

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post #7 of 21 Old 10-21-2010, 11:10 PM
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I installed MM ones in my car with a buddy doing the welding. Start-to-finish it took 6 hours. That included taking out the seats, console & carpet, grinding away paint and e-coat on underbody, welding, grinding, repainting, and replacing interior. We also replaced the exhaust. We did have a lift. One day is plenty of time for a competent shop. I have no idea what a shop should charge, but I wouldn't pay more than $200. I guess that's why I did it myself.

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post #8 of 21 Old 10-22-2010, 06:11 AM
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I'll probably get flamed for this, but it has worked on my car for over 6+ years(even with the torque arm).

Can't you find just some random muffler shop with a DRIVE ON LIFT? There's some po-dunk hole in the wall places down here(some good ol' boyz)and I just had one of them do it for 30-40 dollars cash....from my pocket to his pocket.

We bolted them up to the seat mount bolts, then he spent about 30-ish minutes hittin' all the areas in the directions and wherever else he could. I paid the same guy 10 bucks to install some KB Jacking rails.

These were Steeda XL's or whatever full length ones were. Just two pieces, the long connector and the seat x-brace.
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post #9 of 21 Old 10-22-2010, 07:35 AM
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You really don't need to remove any interior bits if you don't lay down a continuous bead. If you just hit from spot to spot, moving around, you won't get any area hot enough to burn interior.
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post #10 of 21 Old 10-22-2010, 08:07 AM
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This is how "my guy" did it. I also unplugged my ECU and disconnected my battery while he was welding.

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post #11 of 21 Old 10-22-2010, 08:13 AM
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I found a local muffler shop with a drive on lift that installed my full MM subs in 3 hours time. The installer went slowly so as to not burn the interior. I was charged their hourly rate and total cost was low $1XX.

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post #12 of 21 Old 10-22-2010, 09:53 AM
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I second the "find a muffler guy" idea. Way cheaper hourly rates and they know how to weld just fine.

An acquaintance who is building his own circle track car welded mine. We had access to a real lift. I want to say it took a total of 3 hours to get the full length subbies installed with the lower torque box supports. This included the time it took me to clean off the undercoating. Mine aren't welded the full length, but are welded in the three major spots on each side.
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post #13 of 21 Old 10-22-2010, 10:51 AM
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It only took one hour of labor from on the ramp to when it rolled off.

I hope they don't fall off.

I used bare sfcs and painted when I got the car home

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post #14 of 21 Old 10-22-2010, 10:58 AM
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I also primed and painted the metal to metal sections before going to the shop

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post #15 of 21 Old 10-22-2010, 12:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huesmann View Post
You really don't need to remove any interior bits if you don't lay down a continuous bead. If you just hit from spot to spot, moving around, you won't get any area hot enough to burn interior.
Now that I've done it, I'm inclined to agree.

I pulled the carpet for two reasons. First, not having done it before, I didn't want to take any chances. Second, I installed sound deadener on the floor pan the next day, so I had to get ready for that anyway.

My only point in bringing it up was that even doing all that extra stuff, and even having not done it before, it took less than a day to do the whole thing. The OP shouldn't have to leave his car overnight, much less 10 days!

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John.

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post #16 of 21 Old 10-22-2010, 05:54 PM
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no need to pull the carpet or any interior. since you are welding to the existing subframe on the car, there is plenty of space between where you are welding and the carpet. its not like you are welding directly to the floor pan.

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post #17 of 21 Old 10-22-2010, 11:47 PM
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When I've done mine, I've spent lots of time on fit and prep before welding, trying to get as much of the square tube flush with the unibody as possible, to get more weld. That takes a bunch of time, but I think it is a good way to go about it...maybe you get pretty much the same benefit from throwing 'em up there and hitting them with a bead where you can, but I like doing it the other way.

So, yeah, cost of install could be $400, easily, at shop rates. Or it could be $100. Just depends, I guess.
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post #18 of 21 Old 10-23-2010, 12:21 AM
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I've done these 8 times in my garage. Ramps, prep, MIG, paint. 3-4 hours tops. Leave carpet/interior in.

Just make sure you or they move and shield the fuel line.

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post #19 of 21 Old 10-23-2010, 07:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by the_tool_man View Post
My only point in bringing it up was that even doing all that extra stuff, and even having not done it before, it took less than a day to do the whole thing. The OP shouldn't have to leave his car overnight, much less 10 days!
To be fair, you don't know what the backlog of existing work is at the shop. They may have a dozen customers cars needing work before they can get to welding the subs.
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post #20 of 21 Old 10-23-2010, 10:37 PM
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Quote:
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To be fair, you don't know what the backlog of existing work is at the shop. They may have a dozen customers cars needing work before they can get to welding the subs.
True. But if the backlog is that bad, I'd expect to be able to make an appointment, and maybe leave my car overnight. There is no way I'd do without my car for over a week just for sfc's.

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John.

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post #21 of 21 Old 11-14-2010, 08:37 PM
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I bought mine back in '04. Walked into Kenny Brown's shop. Plunked down $99 for full length super subs and another $89 for 1hr shop labor for installation. $200 and 2hrs of my time including drive time there and home again.

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