effectiveness of MM ful length SFC vs Mathis Mustang Perf2 through floor SFCs - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 09-10-2010, 04:56 PM Thread Starter
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effectiveness of MM ful length SFC vs Mathis Mustang Perf2 through floor SFCs

Does anyone have experience with the effectiveness of the MM full length SFC vs the through floor SFC as can be built given the drawings in Mathis's Mustang Performance 2 book?

I have installed the MM full lengths before (10 years ago) and it wasn't too tough, and they worked very well. The through floors look a lot more involved, and I have no experience with them.

Is there really a substantial difference in performance between the two?

Anyone actually built the Mathis versions? I've seen various sites and posts where people put an extra angle in the through floors, and I haven't figured out what it's for yet. Don't want to cut up the floors just to figure it out.

This is for a 1991 hatchback, I don't plan on racing it, it's not a class car, 99.9% street driven.

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post #2 of 13 Old 09-10-2010, 09:34 PM
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I bought my car with through-the-floors already done and they seem to work very well (it was built as part of the roll bar), the car is very stiff compared to a stocker, though I've not compared to a car with SFC's only.

If it means anything, I've raised the front corner of the car before and had the rear tire on the same side and the other front tire come off the ground too at a pretty low level. Seems like a pretty stiff setup based on that alone.

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post #3 of 13 Old 09-10-2010, 09:43 PM
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My car, and a few others have both infloors and external SFCs. The chassis is very stiff!

https://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=993924

https://forums.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?t=987663

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post #4 of 13 Old 09-11-2010, 05:55 AM
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I consider the girlfriends Nissan Sentra to be 99.9% street driven......it has no need for mods.
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post #5 of 13 Old 09-11-2010, 06:28 AM
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i have the wolfe race craft through the floor subframe connectors, really good setup, and my cage is goin to weld right into it, should be amazing once i get the cage in, havnt had any experience with the reg SFC

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post #6 of 13 Old 09-11-2010, 09:46 AM
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You don't need through-the-floors unless you are seriously abusing the car. For a street car, stick with regular full-length SFCs.
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post #7 of 13 Old 09-11-2010, 05:16 PM Thread Starter
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In hind sight I may have asked the wrong question.

Ten years ago I built a class car for NMRA. I don't plan on building another class car, I just want something to play around with. I will probably take this car to an open track day, and probably take it drag racing, but I don't plan on being class competitive. I've been out of Mustangs for about six years, and mostly am back in this hobby because I like to tinker with and fabricate things.

My last car had UPR SFCs and an S&W 10pt roll cage tied into the subframes. I built the whole car myself. It was plenty stiff with the cage, but I never tried getting more than two tires off the ground at one time. The MMs I installed in someone elses Saleen.

I had originally planned on doing the Mathis through floors, but then started thinking about buying the MM product later after I picked up the car a couple weeks ago.

I guess my question should have been more along the lines of: How effective are the Mathis through floor SFCs and how much additional effort does it take to install them, compared to a full length SFC like the MM product?

I will probably do the Mathis mods, just because I've been wanting to. So any tips would be great. I've seen the Doug and Stef website and they are the only pics I have found, of anyone actually doing the Mathis through floor SFCs.
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post #8 of 13 Old 09-11-2010, 10:45 PM
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Aren't the Griggs thru floor SFCs essentially the same as the Mathis thru floors?

If so, you may have more success searching install threads for the Griggs.

I may yet add on to my Global West subs the Griggs/Mathis thru floors.

My car is not quite heavy enough yet...

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post #9 of 13 Old 09-14-2010, 03:39 PM
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I'm sure you could call/email maximum motorsports and they could answer the question in depth. You could also pm jack.

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post #10 of 13 Old 09-21-2010, 11:59 AM
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Here is a thread from last year when I did mine.
https://forums.corral.net/forums/show....php?t=1177989

I loosely based them off of pictures from Darius Rudis's website.



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post #11 of 13 Old 09-21-2010, 10:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aurdraco View Post
You don't need through-the-floors unless you are seriously abusing the car. For a street car, stick with regular full-length SFCs.

o i am abusing her, i should go to jail for domestic violence

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post #12 of 13 Old 11-07-2010, 01:14 PM
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My 2001 Convertible started off with the usual lower sub frame connectors( Global west units) and the car felt a little stiffer, but still not good enough


So then I got busy in my garage and installed the upper half of the "Griggs Frame kit" The Griggs upper rails are welded to the Global west lowers right at the middle.

Griggs upper frame rails and bulk head stiffeners welded in






Cut and welded on the factory seat track so it cleared the Griggs frame rails


Since the interior was all out for the Upper frame rail install, I went ahead and welded in a griggs roll bar:


The finished product; The upper rails are only noticeable behind the front seats



Interior all back in with the Griggs convertible roll bar.

In my experience, The upper frame rail/through the floor set up made a huge difference in stiffness compared to just having the usual lower frame connectors. Starting out with a quality lower sub frame connector and then going with an upper kit is the way to go. One note about lower sub fraims: Griggs stated that based on the testing they have done, a lower sub frame with a ladder bar set up such as the Kenny brown "extreme matrix" only adds unnecessary weight with no gain in stiffness
post #13 of 13 Old 11-07-2010, 03:17 PM
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Clean install, I like your attention to detail.
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