You need the fluid to stay in the engine long enough for it to absorb heat, and in radiator to release heat. Whipping cooling thru the system is actually WORSE.
It's not often that I do this, but I'm going to have to disagree with Darius on this one. Maybe you can bring the tech Darius, but everything that I have read indicates that more coolant flow equals lower temps. Everytime I have done something to improve the flow of coolant through the engine, the temps went down.
A key to adding efficiency to a stock pump is to attach a round plate to the back of the impeller. This helps by eliminating water from spilling out between the back of the impeller and the back cover.
Not too tough to make a round plate and rivet it on to the blade. As far as I can tell, this is the key performance difference between a stock pump and a Stewart Stage I pump. (This excludes any improvement in longevity due to bearings or shaft size.) With this set up, I run a 4" crank pulley and a 4" WP pulley with no overheating issues. I still run a thermostat to aid in quicker warm up, but it is a high flow unit. With 550 NA horspower and Griffin 2 row radiator, I typically can maintain 200 to 210 water temps while pulling each gear to about 6400 rpm on long track sessions.
Another thing you can do that I have mentioned in other threads is to clean up the passages in the timing chain cover. The transitions are usually pretty rough and restricted. If yours has the directional inlets, gasket match them on the water pump side.
Although the boiling point is lower, straight water can accept a larger amount of heat than water with antifreeze. If you can keep your temps below the pressurized boiling point of water, you will be better off without the coolant or any additives. Of course an anti corrosive/waterpump lubricant is a good idea. You can get that at your local parts store.
Also a 16 psi radiator cap raises the boiling point of water from 212 to about 226. If you use a 22 lb radiator cap, the boiling point goes up to nearly 239 degrees.