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post #1 of 32 Old 09-20-2009, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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where do i go from here??

I need some advice on what to change about my suspension, I am trying to get better handling, but most importantly high speed stability and handling. I am building the car for bonneville salt flats. Here's what i have so far:

Front__-QA-1 Tubular K-Member, FRPP 3075-A Control Arms, X-2 Balljoints, Strange Adj. Struts, Steeda Bump Steer Kit, Steeda Ultra-lite springs, poly isolators, Billet swaybar mounts. Billet C/C plates
Rear___-Steeda Adj UCA, Alum. Lowers,4500 duro. bushings,Urethane Axle Bushings,Strange shocks.
I also have Steeda Full-length subframes
What can i do with the steering? New AGR Rack and pump, urethane bushing and MM Solid steering shaft. Still feels loose on center, seems touchy over 80-85mph almost squirrely, i just had an alignment done too. what gives??

What do i keep? What should i have instead. I plan on a 5-Link2 rear setup and i also have M-2300k brake kit.


Last edited by greengt88; 09-20-2009 at 06:16 PM. Reason: added
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post #2 of 32 Old 09-20-2009, 07:11 PM
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Honestly....you need to trash your whole setup(maybe keep the X2's)and just go visit Maximum, Griggs, or Agent47's website.

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post #3 of 32 Old 09-20-2009, 08:08 PM
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probably time to start reading up on down force and diffusers

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post #4 of 32 Old 09-20-2009, 08:09 PM
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Have you actually measured the bumpsteer? What are your alignment settings? What's your toe setting when the front ride height is as high as it is when the car's going 80, not sitting still? You know this without having to measure it, if you know your bumpsteer curve.
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post #5 of 32 Old 09-20-2009, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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I ordered a MM catalog today, Grigg's is just too expensive. I can keep the bumpsteer, x-2's, C/C plates, what's wrong with the rear control arms? my car hooks like crazy with street tires, i definitely want to go with MM's coil-over kit, K-member and a-arms, but i like the 5-link2 better than the torque arm for the rear.
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post #6 of 32 Old 09-20-2009, 08:26 PM Thread Starter
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i have no idea what everything is set too. Is there someone who makes a front splitter for the 87-93 frontend? This is also my street car, i just want to build something that will hit 200mph+ and have the handling capabilties to do so. Power won't be an issue, just working on the chassis now. It doesn't have to be top dollar stuff. But i know i need leaps and bound better than what it is now. and it really isn't that bad now, maybe just out of spec, it steers straight and doesn't pull or anything. We also have crowned roads in Florida and i am running 17x9's with 255/45's, so that may be some of it. stock sway bars and no strut tower brace or anything either.
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post #7 of 32 Old 09-20-2009, 08:27 PM Thread Starter
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how do i figure out the bumpsteer curve? and what it is at 80 let alone what it will be at 180+?
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post #8 of 32 Old 09-20-2009, 08:37 PM
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The bumpsteer curve is what it is...you make, borrow or buy the tools to plot the amount of toe change measured at different amounts of suspension compression and extension, and you make adjustments as necessary to get the curve where you want it to be. Most people try to achieve zero toe change, I purposely left just a hair's worth of toe out on compression. If you're even remotely serious about achieving 200 mph in a mustang, you have to know this kind of thing.

Throwing a bunch of aero and suspension parts at it now in an attempt to stabilize it without even knowing what any of the readings are would be like getting knee surgery and ankle braces just because you didn't realize your shoes were untied.
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post #9 of 32 Old 09-20-2009, 08:48 PM Thread Starter
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i am aware of that, but the parts i have now are not up to par......so i need to change them anyway. Is that correct or what i have is good enough, if i can have it setup more properly. the handling now probably isn't that dramatic, but it seems like it should be better even with what little i have done. I'm going to give MM a call tomorrow, and see if i can't take it back to steeda to be realigned and see if they can determine what my bumpsteer
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post #10 of 32 Old 09-20-2009, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
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Left front -1.0*cam. 3.3*cas. 0.20*toe Right fr. -1.3*cam.3.6*cas.0.13*toe
Left Rear-0.09*toe Right Rear -0.29* toe total toe -0.21* thrust angle 0.19* does that help?? That's my alignment sheet from steeda, that they did

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post #11 of 32 Old 09-20-2009, 10:23 PM
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Wait...you want to hit 200mph in your Fox body street car and you want to do it on the cheap?

Good luck!
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post #12 of 32 Old 09-20-2009, 10:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greengt88 View Post
i have no idea what everything is set too. Is there someone who makes a front splitter for the 87-93 frontend? This is also my street car, i just want to build something that will hit 200mph+ and have the handling capabilties to do so. Power won't be an issue, just working on the chassis now. It doesn't have to be top dollar stuff. But i know i need leaps and bound better than what it is now. and it really isn't that bad now, maybe just out of spec, it steers straight and doesn't pull or anything. We also have crowned roads in Florida and i am running 17x9's with 255/45's, so that may be some of it. stock sway bars and no strut tower brace or anything either.

Good luck. I'd suggest you ditch everything and stick with one brand. MM spent a lot of time and money making sure everything fits and works well together.
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post #13 of 32 Old 09-20-2009, 11:44 PM Thread Starter
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well i only need 500-550 rwhp to have a 200mph+ top speed in a 1.5-2mi stretch, standing mile i would need more like 900+, so with my 76mm turbo and dart block 331, i should be in the 650-700+ range at the tires, so power is not an issue. I agree with sticking to one company, i guess that steeda was not the right one for me to choose.
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post #14 of 32 Old 09-21-2009, 03:10 AM
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Wait...you want to hit 200mph in your Fox body street car and you want to do it on the cheap?

Good luck!
Yea, that's why I bowed out....quick.
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post #15 of 32 Old 09-21-2009, 11:29 AM
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Anyone notice that there's been no discussion about safety devices (cage, fire system, etc...)

I predict that unless the course changes significantly, this will not end well.

My advice is to call maximum Motorsports, and Griggs Racing to see what they think will be needed for a 200mph speed run. take advantage of their experiance.

This will NOT be cheap, nor should it be.

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post #16 of 32 Old 09-21-2009, 12:34 PM Thread Starter
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I have my 09' salt flats rulebook, and a friend with a full service machine shop/ Dyno and a Ford Master Tech, with a fab shop to do all/any work i need. Labor is free just gotta pay for parts. I am also in the process of moving and purchasing/selling a house and buying a business. So this may take another year, but it'll happen and i'm sure i can do it for under $30k. I just want to hit 200 once it doesn't need to do it all day everyday.
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post #17 of 32 Old 09-21-2009, 12:59 PM
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well i only need 500-550 rwhp to have a 200mph+ top speed...
It takes 480hp just to hit 180mph. You need another 200hp for the last 20mph. So you need nearly 700hp to crack the 200mph mark in a Fox Mustang.


Quote:
Originally Posted by greengt88 View Post
...i should be in the 650-700+ range at the tires, so power is not an issue.
Maybe...


p.s. Take lots of pictures, and more than one on-board camera, and finish you will before you go... then I will wish you... (ummmm...) good luck.

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post #18 of 32 Old 09-21-2009, 01:11 PM Thread Starter
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got the power part no prob, just need help with chassis/suspension and aerodynamics, they is actually some videos on here if u do a search, so i'm not the only crazy one.
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post #19 of 32 Old 09-21-2009, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by greengt88 View Post
got the power part no prob, just need help with chassis/suspension and aerodynamics, they is actually some videos on here if u do a search, so i'm not the only crazy one.
There's also a great thread or two here from people who have been there and done this if YOU search, might help round out the picture of what it takes to do

Last edited by MFE; 09-21-2009 at 02:48 PM.
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post #20 of 32 Old 09-28-2009, 12:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greengt88 View Post
I need some advice on what to change about my suspension, I am trying to get better handling, but most importantly high speed stability and handling. I am building the car for bonneville salt flats. Here's what i have so far:

Front__-QA-1 Tubular K-Member, FRPP 3075-A Control Arms, X-2 Balljoints, Strange Adj. Struts, Steeda Bump Steer Kit, Steeda Ultra-lite springs, poly isolators, Billet swaybar mounts. Billet C/C plates
Rear___-Steeda Adj UCA, Alum. Lowers,4500 duro. bushings,Urethane Axle Bushings,Strange shocks.
I also have Steeda Full-length subframes
What can i do with the steering? New AGR Rack and pump, urethane bushing and MM Solid steering shaft. Still feels loose on center, seems touchy over 80-85mph almost squirrely, i just had an alignment done too. what gives??

What do i keep? What should i have instead. I plan on a 5-Link2 rear setup and i also have M-2300k brake kit.

You are building this car for the Salt flats?? And you live in Florida? You are stating that Griggs is too expensive but you are planning to tow your car all the way to Utah??

You have a complete mish mash of components, dont know what your alignment settings or weight settings are??

You need to stop what you are doing take a step back and then write everything down on paper..

The QA1 and strange are drag racing components.....

How fast are you planning on running??

97 32v Cobra [email protected] 4.10's,pullies,80mm MAF, Exhaust
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Hey kid!!! That's a cute car, does your girlfriend know you're driving her Civic?
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post #21 of 32 Old 09-28-2009, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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Well, finally talked to MM today, fellow named Jason. We spent about 30min. talking about a little of everything. Definitely found my new Chassis company. Will the TA/PHB set-up work with 2.5" tailpipes, I'd really like to keep them. If not i may go with the 5-Link2. Which setup is better? and why?
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post #22 of 32 Old 09-29-2009, 01:44 AM
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The MM PHB will clear any 2.5" tail pipes that follow the factory routing over the rear axle. Examples of these are Dynomax and Flowmaster.

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post #23 of 32 Old 09-29-2009, 03:39 AM Thread Starter
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what about with the torque arm?
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post #24 of 32 Old 09-29-2009, 03:43 AM
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Everything you want to know about the TA is located here:

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/co...sp/ta_tech.php

Everything you want to know about the PHB is located here:

http://www.maximummotorsports.com/co...nhard_tech.php

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post #25 of 32 Old 09-29-2009, 04:05 AM Thread Starter
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will the TA be an issue when i upgrade to a T-56 trans.? Also i have BBK 1 5/8 Longtubes with matching 2.5" Xpipe, and Bassani Cat-back, with this set-up be okay?

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post #26 of 32 Old 09-29-2009, 11:44 PM
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I have a t56, MM TA/PHB, and 2.5 Dynomax tailpipes. It all works fine together.
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post #27 of 32 Old 09-29-2009, 11:59 PM Thread Starter
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I have a t56, MM TA/PHB, and 2.5 Dynomax tailpipes. It all works fine together.
Cool can't wait to max out the crdit card again Which T-56 do you have? and what crossmember are you using, and which mount?
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post #28 of 32 Old 09-30-2009, 08:48 AM
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Back in 1993 Car Craft built a 93' Cobra to go 200+ mph. The motor was a 800hp Vortech powered svo motor built by Ken Duttweiler. The project was named Terminal Velocity. If you google it I'm sure you will find the article. The car was suprisingly stock as far as the body and suspension went, it even had the stock world class t-5 tranny, rear end (2.73 gears) and drive shaft. They went 201.97 mph in 4th gear at 7400 rpms. But they had a team of 18 to 20 people and a open checkbook!! Good luck with your goal, it will be an expensive one.

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post #29 of 32 Old 09-30-2009, 12:28 PM Thread Starter
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awesome, i'd been looking for that article for months and couldn't remember what it was called. Thanks, There was another guy, a Dr. who had advertised in the magazines looking for sponsors a coupe years back to do the same thing, also with a red 93' cobra. If anyone has any info on that i'd like to read it. See i'm not the only crazy one, i suppose if u drive a 93 Cobra some part of your brain melts into thinking you can go 200
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post #30 of 32 Old 09-30-2009, 02:50 PM
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Man, I hope I don't get in trouble for posting the whole article!!

'90 GT, 331ci, AFR 185's, S-Trim, Cobra brakes, Torsen T-2R, Koni's, Fays2 watts, MM goodies, K-member, Torque-arm, control arms, coil-overs, 18x10" wheels.
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post #31 of 32 Old 09-30-2009, 03:06 PM
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A different Mustang 200mph...
http://www.automedia.com/Speed_at_Sa...ht20050301ml/1

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post #32 of 32 Old 09-30-2009, 04:08 PM Thread Starter
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cool guys thanks. Any info on the suspension or brakes of either of these cars?? Where is the best place to locate my battery? I was thinking the pass. side rear seat area. I have a rear seat delete kit, ebay crap, not a perfect fit, but looks nice. I assume that that may not be legal though. it isn't really attached to anything it just kinda in there. Does anybody make a good rear seat delete for a fox, that would be legal?? I also have dynamatted the whole car. I know some say that stuff sux, but florida is hot and it def. helps

Last edited by greengt88; 09-30-2009 at 04:12 PM. Reason: added
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