My first PDX/HPDE... What to check? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 11 Old 08-17-2009, 11:36 AM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Starkville
Posts: 279
My first PDX/HPDE... What to check?

Guys, I'm going to my first PDX/HPDE this weekend, and was just checking to see what areas of the car should I focus on to go over before I go. I just got back from myrtle beach a couple weeks ago (Mustang Week), and havent had a chance to check over it since. I'm adding an I/O port harness guide bar so that I can add a harness or two to the car, since it still has the original belts in it.

Any advice/suggestions?

Thanks!


Down to one '86 GT riding some jackstands, but there's somethin in the works!!
4eyedconekiller is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 11 Old 08-17-2009, 02:07 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: At the apex, blocking your pass.
Posts: 2,133
Quote:
Originally Posted by 4eyedconekiller View Post
Guys, I'm going to my first PDX/HPDE this weekend, and was just checking to see what areas of the car should I focus on to go over before I go. I just got back from myrtle beach a couple weeks ago (Mustang Week), and havent had a chance to check over it since. I'm adding an I/O port harness guide bar so that I can add a harness or two to the car, since it still has the original belts in it.

Any advice/suggestions?

Thanks!
BRAKES
  • Check rotors for cracks. If there's a crack big enough to cartch a fingernail in, the rotor is junk. The same goes for cracks that reach the edge of the rotor (inside or outside,) or for cracks longer than 1".
  • Pads should have 50% or more of their friction material.
  • hoses should be free of cracks or any signs of damage. there should be no ecidence of leaks or of the rubber pulling from the crimped metal hose ends. If yo are running stainless steel hoses the same applies, plus, if the hose has ever been kinked, it's junk.
  • If the fluid is more than one year old, replace it with fresh DOT4 or better fluid form a factory-SEALED can. Unsealed cans have a lifespan measured in hours.
  • Pedal should be high and firm. If the pedal sinks during application, you have a leak somewhere and the car should not be driven.

TIRES
  • No cords showing.
  • No bulges, particularly on the sidewalls.
  • no new tires -- they''ll easily ovberheat and start falling apart. The balder the better (except no cords can be showing, and this assumes a DRY track!)
  • Be ready to adjust tire pressures at the track, both up and down. Get a dial-type pressure gauge. Stick gauges are inconsistant.

WHEELS
  • No cracks! Clean the grunge and brake dust off and check carefully. Any cracks and the wheel is junk.
  • Torque the wheel nuts to 90 ft-lbs (for Mustangs and most other cars with 1/2"-20 wheel studs.) Check the torque between each track session.
  • Make sure the wheel bearings are tight by jacking up the car and trying to move the wheel by pushing/pulling at 12:00 and 6:00 on the wheel. Any movements means a worn-out wheel bearing.
  • Tierods -- check for loosness at 3:00 and 9:00. Any looseness means either a bad wheel bearing or worn tierod ends.

STEERING
  • Minimum play/slop. Being a factory car, there will be some, but if it dteers like your grandfather's Lincoln, something's amis.
  • Flush the steering fluid and replace with fresh fluid or synthetic ATF if your car permits it.

SEATS
  • Should be in good condition and firmly attached to the chassis.
  • Seatbllet should be OEM and in good condition (i.e. not faded, not frayed, and the latch mych engage securely.) Harnesses should have a stour harness bar to guide the shoulder harnesses and keep them no more than 10 degrees from horizontal, coming back from the driver's shoulders. A 4-point roll bar or cage with an integral harness bar is preferred. Harnesses with no harness bar should not be used for safety reasons.

OTHER
  • No fluid leaks of any kind -- not even coolant, which is VERY slippery and hard to clean up on the track.
  • No unsecured hoses or wiring hanging loose.
  • The battery should be firmly secured -- OEM systems are fine. J-hook systems from aftermarket sources (think Summit or Jegs,) should be avoided.
  • Radiators must have a working overflow catch can (remember, no leaks, either!)
  • Nothing loose in the car, and nothing that cam become loose (radar detectors, floor mats, etc...



-- Robert King
NASA AI #42, Texas
Instructor, NASA Texas Region
Instructor, TWS Perf. Driving School

Last edited by gt40mkII; 08-17-2009 at 02:10 PM.
gt40mkII is offline  
post #3 of 11 Old 08-17-2009, 02:16 PM Thread Starter
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (4)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Starkville
Posts: 279
Thanks... that sounds alot like my solo2 checklist. I've got to get a harness for my driver's side - the belt isnt looking too well. I've already paid for an I/O Port harness guide bar, and will be ordering the harness today.

Down to one '86 GT riding some jackstands, but there's somethin in the works!!
4eyedconekiller is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 11 Old 08-17-2009, 04:03 PM
Registered User
 
mlanoux's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (9)
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: New Orleans, LA USA
Posts: 662
According to the I/O port website, they don't recommend harness bars for high speed events:

" Stable Energies, the manufacturer of the guide bars, recommends that you may mount your harnesses directly to the guide bar only for low-speed events. For high-speed events, they recommend that you mount your harnesses to the rear lap belt mounting location and use H-style harnesses looped over the guide bar. The bar is not strong enough to directly withstand the forces of a high-speed crash.

I/O Port recommends that you use a roll bar if doing high-speed events. Racing harnesses will lock your body in an upright position making your head the tallest thing in the car. In a roll over accident, the harnesses do not allow you to move and if the roof collapses, you could be killed.
A harness guide bar will allow you to install harnesses at more or less the proper height but have proven illegal for some Solo II classes."
mlanoux is offline  
post #5 of 11 Old 08-17-2009, 09:41 PM
Registered User
 
Trader Feedback: (0)
Join Date: May 2002
Location: Jessup, MD
Posts: 77
I had overheating problems the first track day I did in my stock motor 95. So I would say check the condition of your radiator (flush it?) and radiator cap.

Do your seats have guides for keeping the harness in place and not slipping off your shoulder?
Gonz is offline  
post #6 of 11 Old 08-17-2009, 10:37 PM
Registered User
 
BULLITT1992's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (12)
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Ocean Springs, MS
Posts: 3,363
If you don't have a roll bar, wouldn't a CG lock be a better/safer investment than a harness?

2001 Mustang Bullitt #01992
BULLITT1992 is offline  
post #7 of 11 Old 08-18-2009, 03:40 PM
Registered User
 
drudis's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2000
Location: Livonia, MI (Detroit) USA
Posts: 3,013
Tech checklist:
http://www.saac-mcr.com/te/techform.htm

Otherwise...
_____ Air filter
_____ All bleeder screws tight
_____ Brakes bled & adjusted
_____ Belts & harnesses
_____ Battery level
_____ Brake fluid
_____ Clutch linkage
_____ Clutch adjustment
_____ Charge battery
_____ Check fuel lines to cell
_____ Camber
_____ Caster
_____ Distributor cap & rotor
_____ Front calipers & rotor
_____ Fan bolts
_____ Fuel filter
_____ Freeze plugs
_____ Fender clearance
_____ Fuel lines
_____ Fuel
_____ Front springs
_____ Front hubs & wheel bearings
_____ Front studs & lug nuts
_____ Front shocks & mounts
_____ Front end alignment
_____ Fuel cell inspected
_____ Gages operational
_____ Head bolts torqued
_____ Headers & header bolts
_____ Hood pins & brackets
_____ Heim ends & brackets
_____ Inside wheel clearance
_____ Ignition wiring & coil
_____ Lower a-arms & ball joints
_____ Motor mounts
_____ Oil filter
_____ Oil level
_____ Over-all paint & body condition
_____ Pulley & belts
_____ Pinion seals & axle
_____ Rear calipers & rotor
_____ Rear brake lines & brackets
_____ Rear studs & lug nuts
_____ Radiator cleaned
_____ Radiator mounts
_____ Radiator filled
_____ Radiator cap
_____ Rear-end housing
_____ Rear hubs & wheel bearings
_____ Rear spring sliders
_____ Rear shocks & mounting
_____ Roll cage welds checked
_____ Rear spoiler
_____ Spark plug wires
_____ Spark plug gap & wear
_____ Spark plugs replaced
_____ Shifter & linkage
_____ Spindles & steering arm
_____ Splitter and mounting hardware
_____ Steering linkage & ends
_____ Throttle return springs
_____ Timing set
_____ Transmission bolts
_____ Transmission linkage
_____ Transmission greased
_____ Tail shaft seal
_____ Tire pressures
_____ Trailer lights
_____ Trailer tires
_____ Trailer grease
_____ Trailer straps
_____ Toe out
_____ Tire condition
_____ U joint condition
_____ Upper a-arms & ball joints
_____ Valve cover bolts & gaskets
_____ Valve lash checked
_____ Wheel cylinder or caliper

Darius Rudis

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 10 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
1989 Mustang S-trim Roadracer
drudis is offline  
post #8 of 11 Old 08-18-2009, 04:00 PM
Registered User
 
mlanoux's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (9)
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: New Orleans, LA USA
Posts: 662
Is there an acceptable level of sidewall cracking (some would call it dry-rot I suppose) or is the tire completely junk at that point?

My choices are these tires, or having to use 2 new tires (along with 2 tires with a few hundred miles on them that are in good shape).
mlanoux is offline  
post #9 of 11 Old 08-18-2009, 07:50 PM
Registered User
 
xmustangloverx's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (15)
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Harrisburg, PA
Posts: 1,659
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlanoux View Post
Is there an acceptable level of sidewall cracking (some would call it dry-rot I suppose) or is the tire completely junk at that point?

My choices are these tires, or having to use 2 new tires (along with 2 tires with a few hundred miles on them that are in good shape).
Technically if you can stick a small screwdriver or something sharp inside the dry rotted crack and see cords, it fails inspection. I wouldn't want to race my car on dry rotted tires regardless.

Ford technician
1989 GT Convertible
2002 F150 7700 Series
xmustangloverx is offline  
post #10 of 11 Old 08-18-2009, 10:04 PM
Registered User
 
loudnslow98gt's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: new jersey
Posts: 763
Quote:
Originally Posted by BULLITT1992 View Post
If you don't have a roll bar, wouldn't a CG lock be a better/safer investment than a harness?
thats what i've been using for about 10 or so track days, and i love it. highly reccomended by me.


AJ Hartman
RHRPerf.com
facebook.com/rhrperformancellc/
2013, 2016-217 NASA Northeast American Iron Champion
loudnslow98gt is offline  
post #11 of 11 Old 08-21-2009, 09:15 AM
Registered User
 
mlanoux's Avatar
 
Trader Feedback: (9)
Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: New Orleans, LA USA
Posts: 662
Quote:
Originally Posted by xmustangloverx View Post
Technically if you can stick a small screwdriver or something sharp inside the dry rotted crack and see cords, it fails inspection. I wouldn't want to race my car on dry rotted tires regardless.
Figured as much...I'm going to have to go with the 2 new tires and I'll try to scuff them up somehow (I can't drive this car on the street and my other stang isn't 5-lug yet).
mlanoux is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
FS: BRAND NEW Alpine PDX 1.000 amplifier mark22 Miscellaneous Mustang Parts 2 04-07-2009 08:57 AM
FS: ///ALPINE PDX 1000.1 AMP BRAND NEW mark22 Electronics and Entertainment 0 03-27-2009 01:12 PM
why street tires > R-comps!!! (about my PDX at NJMP) loudnslow98gt Road Racing/Auto X 23 03-27-2009 12:55 AM
FS: BRAND NEW IN BOX ALPINE PDX 1000 WATT AMP mark22 Electronics and Entertainment 0 09-08-2008 09:39 AM
Have some ?s about HPDE. Stampede4ever Road Racing/Auto X 7 02-23-2006 10:57 AM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome