Baer 13" rear rotor upgrade - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 18 Old 08-12-2009, 08:56 PM Thread Starter
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Baer 13" rear rotor upgrade

I've read that the Baer 13" rear rotor upgrade is not for Cobras. I assume this is because the Cobra has a different caliper bracket. Does anyone know if its possible (or perhaps easy is the real question) to switch to a GT caliper bracket.
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post #2 of 18 Old 08-13-2009, 07:59 AM
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Yes, you just need the axle bracket (and possibly anti-moans) off a GT. Just like doing the Cobra upgrade, in reverse. Do you have 14" front brakes?

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post #3 of 18 Old 08-13-2009, 11:11 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BtwoG View Post
I've read that the Baer 13" rear rotor upgrade is not for Cobras. I assume this is because the Cobra has a different caliper bracket. Does anyone know if its possible (or perhaps easy is the real question) to switch to a GT caliper bracket.
Thanks
Sure seems like a lot of effort to go from a 11.65" rotor to a 13" rear rotor. There are tons of AI cars with stock rear Cobra brakes that have never had a problem.

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post #4 of 18 Old 08-13-2009, 11:16 AM Thread Starter
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Do you have 14" front brakes?
Got Brakeman racing brakes in the front. I have DTC70 pads on the rear now and I feel like the fronts lock up WAY before the rears. I'm thinking the additonal mechanical advantage would help balance out the system. Then maybe I can use a less agressive pad.

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post #5 of 18 Old 08-13-2009, 01:37 PM
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I just looked them up on Baer's website and it seems to work like the Roush 13" rear kits. They might be the exact same thing. The rotors also appear to be vented, but it could be a generic picture. My concerns would be the availability of replacement rotors, are they vented, and if they are available plain.

Yes you would need to get the GT axle brackets along with the GT anti moan brackets. If you find out anymore, please do let us know. Thanks.

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post #6 of 18 Old 08-13-2009, 05:30 PM
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The Baer/Steeda/Roush 13" rotor w/dogbone bracket is a thin/non-vented rotor. It has been discussed here numerous times with the conclusion that the thicker, vented although shorter Cobra rotor is the way to go, especially on a track car that will build up a lot of heat.

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post #7 of 18 Old 08-13-2009, 07:23 PM
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What has been discussed countless times is solid vs vented rotors. You are wrong about the Roush 13" rear kit. These rotors are vented. I have no real knowledge about Baer.

There is a saying that says, "Complacency is the enemy of progress". There isn't just one solution for everything. Btwog is looking for a solution for his unique setup. Apparently Roush felt a need for an upgrade and I have seen a testimonial from someone using the complete Roush kit and they were very happy with their performance on an open track.
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post #8 of 18 Old 08-13-2009, 10:24 PM
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You are wrong about the Roush 13" rear kit. These rotors are vented. I have no real knowledge about Baer.
You are correct. The Roush kit does have vented rotors...but its $1100 MORE then the Baer/Steeda kit Gotta love $400 replacement rotors!

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post #9 of 18 Old 08-13-2009, 10:29 PM
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Have you looked at the stoptech kit?
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post #10 of 18 Old 08-13-2009, 11:41 PM
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Roush's thinking is, "Build it and they will buy it". Maybe use a lower temp rear pad or a higher temp front pad. Have you turned off the ABS? Why do you think the front trying to lock up first?


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post #11 of 18 Old 08-14-2009, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BtwoG View Post
Got Brakeman racing brakes in the front. I have DTC70 pads on the rear now and I feel like the fronts lock up WAY before the rears. I'm thinking the additonal mechanical advantage would help balance out the system. Then maybe I can use a less agressive pad.
Adjustable prop valve?
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post #12 of 18 Old 08-14-2009, 09:10 AM Thread Starter
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Great point about the vented rotors. Never occurred to me they wouldnt be vented.

I did confirm that the Baer's are NOT vented and just checked on the car and the stock Cobra rotors are vented.

ABS was out for several events. Rears never locked, even going into 10A at Road Atlanta which is steep downhill.

All this has me thinking the proportioning valve option may be best.

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post #13 of 18 Old 08-14-2009, 09:22 AM
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Does the car have a T/A? That will make a difference. I would try a more aggressive rear pad or one with a lower temp range. You want the front to lock up before the rear.

For a while I was having problems overheating my front brakes. I had never had issues before and could not figure out why all of a sudden I was boiling brake fluid. Then I realized that I had changed my rear pads and they were not gripping near enough which caused my fronts to do almost all the braking and overheat.

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post #14 of 18 Old 08-14-2009, 09:29 AM Thread Starter
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Car has full MM suspension (including TA).

DTC70 is about as agressive (high coefficient of friction) a pad as they make AFAIK. Thats why I'm looking at the other options.

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post #15 of 18 Old 08-14-2009, 10:26 AM
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Save yourself the Roush direct price gouging. You can get the same thing at stage3motorsports, but considerably cheaper. The complete kit is only $400. They also sell replacement rotors at a more reasonable price, but it would also be good to find a source from another vendor should they become unavailable.

Here is the link:
http://www.stage3motorsports.com/pro...Brake_Kit.html
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post #16 of 18 Old 08-16-2009, 04:14 PM
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So basically that kit uses the stock calipers and re-brackets them to fit 13" rotors?
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post #17 of 18 Old 08-16-2009, 04:29 PM
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I hadn't looked into this much beyond the surface but the 13" Baer upgrade is more for looks over function. If the the Roush setup still utilizes GT rear calipers, you aren't doing much for the rear except increasing rotor size which will help with heat issues, right. I haven't read of many people overheating the rear brakes unless they leave TC on. The 13" Baer kit uses non vented rotors so it would be a downgrade over the vented Cobras.

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post #18 of 18 Old 08-17-2009, 12:05 PM
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Yes, the Roush kit does reuse the stock GT brake components. The larger rotor probably doesn't increase thermal capacity by that much. But since the calipers now have more mechanical leverage, they have to work less to perform the same amount of work, and it can potentially help with overheating brakes. I say potentially because if the brakes allow you to go deeper into a corner, they will still get just as hot. Brake ducting would then be needed.
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