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post #1 of 10 Old 07-25-2009, 12:45 AM Thread Starter
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More Camber

I need to get more camber. My calculations aren''t exact but I belive that I am currently running about 1.75 on each side and my CC plates are maxed out. So far I've found the following info for getting more camber

CC plates

Pulling the bottom of the spindle away from the car and tightening the spindle bolts, supposedly good for a good bit of neg camber

Camber bolts - Less desirable because of possible slippage

Increasing the center strut hole - In my case my cc plates are maxed out, so it shouldn't matter right?

Slotting the struts - May cause some tire/wheel clearance, more so with Coil overs? May have to weld washer to prevent the bolt slipping back into place?

Does that pretty much sum it up? I've got the CC plates. The next time I get a change I will try and get more camber from the spindle and strut mounting. After that, what is the best way to go?


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post #2 of 10 Old 07-25-2009, 07:41 AM
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I think I used a combination of ALL of those.

I've got everything setup equally on both sides. With this, I have no measurements to do when I adjust camber for autocross/track. When normal driving the camber portion of the C/C plate is maxed out/pulled as close to the fenders as possible(-1.5). Loosen 4 allen heads, push all the way to the motor is the track setup(-3.2).

Took some trial and error to get the right amount of adjustment on the strut/spindle mount but not having to measure or re calc. anything when I get to the track is worth it.

Don't forget camber/crash bolts. They're good for 1 full degree positive or negative.

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post #3 of 10 Old 07-25-2009, 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by BULLITT1992 View Post
I need to get more camber. My calculations aren''t exact but I belive that I am currently running about 1.75 on each side and my CC plates are maxed out. So far I've found the following info for getting more camber

CC plates

Pulling the bottom of the spindle away from the car and tightening the spindle bolts, supposedly good for a good bit of neg camber

Camber bolts - Less desirable because of possible slippage

Increasing the center strut hole - In my case my cc plates are maxed out, so it shouldn't matter right?

Slotting the struts - May cause some tire/wheel clearance, more so with Coil overs? May have to weld washer to prevent the bolt slipping back into place?

Does that pretty much sum it up? I've got the CC plates. The next time I get a change I will try and get more camber from the spindle and strut mounting. After that, what is the best way to go?
Which camber plates do you currently have? In your other thread about a your new set up you mentioned MM coil overs, are you using their CC plates? If so you may need to swap the top plates from one side to the other. IIRC you can't get much more, maybe -2 tops, with the top plates in their "street" orientation.

Tilting the spindle further inward on the lower strut mount will help but with the coil overs you need to be sure you have enough clearance between the inner sidewall & the spring/lower perch, depending on your ride height.

Jeff
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Last edited by jslindst; 07-25-2009 at 11:20 PM.
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post #4 of 10 Old 07-25-2009, 11:18 PM
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With this, I have no measurements to do when I adjust camber for autocross/track. When normal driving the camber portion of the C/C plate is maxed out/pulled as close to the fenders as possible(-1.5). Loosen 4 allen heads, push all the way to the motor is the track setup(-3.2).

Took some trial and error to get the right amount of adjustment on the strut/spindle mount but not having to measure or re calc. anything when I get to the track is worth it.
Have you "re" checked your toe when you make that big of a camber change? Depending on your set up, Stock K vs Aftermarket K member, Stock vs aftermarket control arms, bumpsteer kit, X2 ball joint vs stock height, etc, your toe can change a ton.

Jeff
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post #5 of 10 Old 07-26-2009, 06:36 AM
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I set the toe in "track mode". I rarely daily drive the car so I can afford some inconsistencies when NOT set on track mode.
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post #6 of 10 Old 07-26-2009, 10:24 AM Thread Starter
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I'm running MM camber plates right now and I'm running them in negative orientation which should provide more adjustment for negative camber

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post #7 of 10 Old 07-26-2009, 01:16 PM
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Sounds like you definitely have some issues. With a stock K-member I was able to get -4 degrees of camber, now that I have MM's K-member I can get even more if needed. Do you have any pics? Someone, hopefully Jack Hidley, may see something amiss.

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post #8 of 10 Old 07-26-2009, 06:23 PM Thread Starter
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I was able to pull the spindle and get about .25 more negative. I could maybe get more if I had a hand.

I also have a lower ride height and I'm using x2's. Since the x2's moves the spindle up, I'm not sure if it has an impact on camber or not. I guess I need to verify that the plates are indeed in the negative orientation.

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post #9 of 10 Old 07-26-2009, 09:04 PM
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I was able to pull the spindle and get about .25 more negative.
Wow. Someone told me to try that (I didn't) and I'm thinking it's only going to get me another .05 to .1

Rob
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post #10 of 10 Old 07-26-2009, 09:14 PM
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I had ALOT of adjustment F'ing around with the spindle/strut mount.

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