building for track time- but need to reduce bodyroll - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 6 Old 07-06-2009, 09:46 AM Thread Starter
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building for track time- but need to reduce bodyroll

hi guys- so far on my 1997 cobra I have put on weldin subs, H&R race springs, Bilstein HDs all around, C/C plates, adjustable LCAs, new isos and damps, and bumpsteep waiting to be put in. On runs here in the mountains (we have roads like "the dragon") etc. I am noticing that the car handles really well and that I have to push really hard to break loose, but bodyroll is still very prevalent, so is nose dive. Any suggestions? I still have the stock sways, and was thinking a watts link maybe? or K-member brace? my strut tower brace is gone to make way for the KB 2.1L. thanks

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post #2 of 6 Old 07-07-2009, 10:17 AM
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Reducing roll is a matter of stiffening the springs and bars, lightening and/or lowering the sprung mass CG, and raising the roll center heights. The last is not really desirable unless you've lowered the car substantially (and driven the front RC below grade).

The easiest and cheapest thing to do is install front sta-bar endlinks that use polyurethane bushings, if you haven't done so already. Effectively, this stiffens the bar. Unfortunately, there isn't anything similar that you can do for the existing rear bar.

A Watts link (mostly) defines the rear RC height, except that with all four of the factory arms still in place it will probably get into an argument with them over where the RC should be. The result can be flatter cornering - along with a tendency to suddenly come unstuck when cornering hard. What you can "drive around" in moderate cornering might get evil when your cornering gets serious.

If the K-member brace is what I think it is, it will help keep the outside front tire from losing any more camber than it has to by tying the two sides together a little better. But that, or a STB is not going to actually reduce the roll angle.

Out of curiosity, are you bottomming out, hitting bump stops, rubbing tires, or is the car slow to get rolled over? The actual roll angle may not matter as much as the car's behavior while it's getting there, assuming that the roll isn't causing a camber issue up front.

No flame intended, but you may be overdriving a bit. Somehow I can't see any road requiring anywhere near the pace of steering wheel inputs that you'd be doing at autocross, so you shouldn't have the car badly overshooting the steady-state roll angles unless the shocks are in poor shape.


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Mine: '08 GT, 5MT, black/light graphite, un-Fstock (DD, occasional track day)
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Spare:'01 20AE Maxima, 5MT (also my bad weather alternate)
Various Loose Parts: '79 Malibu

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post #3 of 6 Old 07-09-2009, 09:48 AM Thread Starter
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thanks for the reply Norm, I'm not bottoming out, I've only hit the bumpstop once. It's the way the car feels to me that I want to correct- I want it flatter as I turn in to the apex. All of my susp. upgrades were done in feb. 09' so the condition is fine on them, and the bilsteins were suggested to me by stang suspension with the H&R race springs, but I have to wonder if they are too soft for the springs?
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post #4 of 6 Old 07-09-2009, 10:44 AM
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One possible solution is to get them revalved. I don't know who does this or exactly what sort of information they'd need, but I do know that it's done.

But do the front endlinks first.


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Mine: '08 GT, 5MT, black/light graphite, un-Fstock (DD, occasional track day)
Wife's: '10 Legacy 2.5GT (DD, six-speed manual)
Spare:'01 20AE Maxima, 5MT (also my bad weather alternate)
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post #5 of 6 Old 07-09-2009, 01:38 PM
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I have the MM R&T box on my mach1 so I have the same spring/shock combo.I know that once I got some good seats that kept me planted and I wasn't using my knees and the wheel to stay in position the car felt tons better.
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post #6 of 6 Old 07-09-2009, 03:46 PM
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Stiffening the front too much will cause the car to understeer, and doing it to the rear will make it oversteer to much.

You can go about it with springs or swaybars, or possibly a change in dampers. Whatever you do to the front I'd try to also do to the rear to keep your handling neutral.

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