Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: state of confusion
Reducing roll is a matter of stiffening the springs and bars, lightening and/or lowering the sprung mass CG, and raising the roll center heights. The last is not really desirable unless you've lowered the car substantially (and driven the front RC below grade).
The easiest and cheapest thing to do is install front sta-bar endlinks that use polyurethane bushings, if you haven't done so already. Effectively, this stiffens the bar. Unfortunately, there isn't anything similar that you can do for the existing rear bar.
A Watts link (mostly) defines the rear RC height, except that with all four of the factory arms still in place it will probably get into an argument with them over where the RC should be. The result can be flatter cornering - along with a tendency to suddenly come unstuck when cornering hard. What you can "drive around" in moderate cornering might get evil when your cornering gets serious.
If the K-member brace is what I think it is, it will help keep the outside front tire from losing any more camber than it has to by tying the two sides together a little better. But that, or a STB is not going to actually reduce the roll angle.
Out of curiosity, are you bottomming out, hitting bump stops, rubbing tires, or is the car slow to get rolled over? The actual roll angle may not matter as much as the car's behavior while it's getting there, assuming that the roll isn't causing a camber issue up front.
No flame intended, but you may be overdriving a bit. Somehow I can't see any road requiring anywhere near the pace of steering wheel inputs that you'd be doing at autocross, so you shouldn't have the car badly overshooting the steady-state roll angles unless the shocks are in poor shape.
Mine: '08 GT, 5MT, black/light graphite, un-Fstock (DD, occasional track day)
Wife's: '10 Legacy 2.5GT (DD, six-speed manual)
Spare:'01 20AE Maxima, 5MT (also my bad weather alternate)
Various Loose Parts: '79 Malibu
Last edited by Norm Peterson; 07-07-2009 at 10:20 AM.