check over my front 5 lug swap for me please. - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 16 Old 06-22-2009, 06:56 PM Thread Starter
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check over my front 5 lug swap for me please.

okay so i got the front 5 lug all finished up today, took a few days of working. only thing i didnt have off the bat were the 95 soft lines. had everything else. im not sure how i like the 95 calipers on the stock master cyl. and brake booster, but it stopped just fine on the way home, with allot of pedal play. i mean i can push the pedal down to about an inch and a half off the floor. when i bled them we only filled up half a water bottle with junk fluid so im probably going to bleed the hell out of them later on. do i need to do the back ones too?

now for the confusing stuff, when it was done with the steering wheel straight the passenger side was dead on looking, then the driver one was pointed way in. so today i spun the driver side tie rod out probably about 3/4 inches and its eyeball straight, it drove home fine, just with the wheel off center.
but when you look at it the driver one is cambered in, and lower ride height than the passenger side,
DRIVER:



PASSENGER:




which is cambered about perfect but has a higher ride height. im not sure if the spring ever settled down into the perch in the control arm, i cant tell with it all assembled. the camber plate on the strut towers has always been different,

DRIVER:

see how the metal thing is in the middle hole?

PASSENGER:

that ones in the far right hole.

im just going to wait to get an alignment i guess.
would it be okay to do it now with the back still a 4 lug, then do the 5 lug in the rear (ranger/aerostar axles and drums) or should i get all 4 corners 5 lugged then take it?

totally worth it:




i got caster camber plates in today, can i put those on with the car on the ground, just remove the bolts? how do i know what spacer things to use?

just trying to figure out why the right side is camberd almost correctly, and why the driver side is about right (how they both sat with the old wheels on). also somethings knocking when i turn fully left while going slow, doesent do it to the right. is that the spindle nut you think? when i put the driver side on i only had channel locks, then did the passenger side with a wrench, then took the driver side back apart and tightened the driver one one more cotter pin slot. should i just grease them again?


1990 GT hatch 5 speed

Last edited by fivespeedsteed; 06-22-2009 at 07:06 PM.
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post #2 of 16 Old 06-25-2009, 08:04 PM
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The metal thing I think is the pop rivet that the factory put in. Only meant to make the plates fixed from the factory and "non-adjustible." Since you changed spindles you changed your geometery: camber, caster and toe will need to be aligned to the new geometry. The two sets of CC plates I've put on required you to work inside the fenderwell with access to the bottom side of the strut and the tower, so the tires had to be off. However, if you put the weight on jack stands mounted under the a-arms, you can remove the stock plates and most of the strut stuff without worrying about the a-arm and spring getting loose. Just hook it back up before raising the car.

Since your alignment will be mostly on the front (they may check rear toe, etc.), I'd get it done soon. But you need to make sure your front springs are seated and clocked correctly before you align the car. It's not hard to tell where the springs are with the front in the air and wheels off. As a start, look for the two weep holes in the control arm - should be in the forward part of the spring groove, about 2" apart; the end of your spring on both sides should be at/near the second one counting out.

You have increased the front caliper piston size to about 66mm from 60mm, but left the M/C sized for the smaller caliper; this is most likely why your pedal is soft/long.


Last edited by qtrracer; 06-25-2009 at 08:09 PM. Reason: added stuff
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post #3 of 16 Old 06-27-2009, 08:06 PM Thread Starter
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but is that unsafe to have that long throw in the pedal? i dont really mind it, i do realize that bigger calipers and or rear disc will require a new mc and bb, but for now im just trying to get this setup working, then ill start piecing together the rear discs, mc, bb, front calipers, ect.

1990 GT hatch 5 speed
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post #4 of 16 Old 06-27-2009, 09:33 PM
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pull the master cylinder off of the booster , and turn the rod out 2 complete turns .
re-install .
this will give you a better pedal .
What components did you use to convert to 5 lug , Sn95 parts ?
Drill the rivets out of the plates , and shove them over untill the caber looks correct , then re-check the toe in

Last edited by ashleyroachclip; 06-27-2009 at 09:35 PM.
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post #5 of 16 Old 06-27-2009, 11:47 PM
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i was super high "hey i smoke" when i did my 5 lug swap on my 84 t-top i was dumm enough "high" to install my pass side spring up side down and my car had bout the same problem with ride height as yours i remembered when i installed the drivers side that i incorrectly did the pass ...just a thought oh and the spring rate was super affected pass was floppy and drivers side was stiff

i never drove like this as my car is still tore down

Daily driver original 7,900 mile 68 j code 5spd coupe H/C/I 302 tfs stage 2 heads tfs stage 2 cam 1.7 rr victor efi 75 mm tb 80 mm mass air24lb injectors kirban fp reg trex pump ...next upgrade twins and a stand alone
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post #6 of 16 Old 06-28-2009, 10:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fivespeedsteed View Post
when i bled them we only filled up half a water bottle with junk fluid so im probably going to bleed the hell out of them later on. do i need to do the back ones too?
When you open the brake lines you should bleed the whole system. The fact that you got a lot of "junk fluid" out of the fronts more than suggests the rears are overdue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fivespeedsteed View Post
but is that unsafe to have that long throw in the pedal?
"Safe" would be to have the correct pedal throw and pressure, especially in emergency situations that require instant reaction not "oh yeah, I have to press the pedal down further." In my experience those fractions of seconds matter. With that said, you indicated that you are in the process of upgrading the whole system and if that is to occur soon, perhaps you can live with the longer/softer pedal. Me, I'm a believer in good, responsive brakes and would not "live" with your situation.
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post #7 of 16 Old 06-29-2009, 09:24 AM Thread Starter
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junk fluid came out of the front ones because the calipers were from a junkyard, i keep the resovoior clean, suck out dirty stuff and put in new. ill probably bleed them all anyways. so the end of the spring, the bottom pigtail in the front isnt supposed to be all the way in the perch for it, just to the second weephole?

1990 GT hatch 5 speed
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post #8 of 16 Old 06-29-2009, 09:26 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashleyroachclip View Post
pull the master cylinder off of the booster , and turn the rod out 2 complete turns .
re-install .
this will give you a better pedal .
What components did you use to convert to 5 lug , Sn95 parts ?
Drill the rivets out of the plates , and shove them over untill the caber looks correct , then re-check the toe in
is that not really hard to do? can i do this myself?

i used 95 calipers, spindles, hubs, rotors, pads, and brakelines. ive got c springs tokico blues, and mm caster/camber plates waiting to go on.

1990 GT hatch 5 speed
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post #9 of 16 Old 06-29-2009, 09:55 AM
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NO , the spring is supposed to be fully seated , pigtail all the way to the end of the perch .
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post #10 of 16 Old 06-29-2009, 07:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ashleyroachclip View Post
NO , the spring is supposed to be fully seated , pigtail all the way to the end of the perch .
Not according to my Haynes; but to each his own. As you know, these cars are nothing if not regulary displaying variations in the build, hence the need to move the spring around to get ride height dialed in. I've found over the years that starting at the second weephole and rotating into the perch or out of the perch (i.e., clocking) can raise and lower that side relative to the other side and the rear; it's not a lot of adjustment but .25" up on one side and .25" down on the other is pretty dramatic visually. I've corrected the so-called "Mustang lean" on a lot of cars doing this. Nothing is fixed-in-stone on these cars.

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post #11 of 16 Old 07-10-2009, 12:38 PM Thread Starter
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how about the rear springs. can you clock them? if so what way does up and down?

1990 GT hatch 5 speed
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post #12 of 16 Old 07-10-2009, 01:32 PM
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5speed, i lowered my 93 and had to "play" with the springs to get everything matching heighth-wise. yes i did the rear too, a turn here a turn there and whuala! also the mm ccplates are awesome! no more chirping going around corners. good luck

93 oxford white gt convertible auto
subs, MM k-brace, strut tower brace
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post #13 of 16 Old 07-12-2009, 01:17 AM Thread Starter
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yeah the rear passenger side sits a whole inch higher than the rear drivers side. ive clocked the spring and cant really get it any better. i think im just gonna swap the springs (driver to passenger, pass to driver) and see what that does. just ashame cause the back driver side sits perfect, but i cant get the back passenger side any lower. no iso's anywhere either. ugh.

1990 GT hatch 5 speed
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post #14 of 16 Old 07-12-2009, 10:58 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fivespeedsteed View Post
yeah the rear passenger side sits a whole inch higher than the rear drivers side. ive clocked the spring and cant really get it any better. i think im just gonna swap the springs (driver to passenger, pass to driver) and see what that does. just ashame cause the back driver side sits perfect, but i cant get the back passenger side any lower. no iso's anywhere either. ugh.
Remember too that the front height has an effect on the rear and vice versa. Pick an end and get that settled - since the front is much more difficult that is where I'd start. Once an end is settled then move to the other end. Assuming that you have no body and/or spring damage, switching springs side to side should have zero impact - if it does, you might look for damaged components. For my current car, I've also played with combinations of isos - rubber and poly, all poly, all rubber, none on one end, etc. You'd be surprised how much you can adjust height with "non-adjustible" suspension components. Could be that the side that is "perfect" is too low compaired to the amout that other side can be adjusted, so you will have to raise the side that is lowest or do something else - cut the springs (not recommended), get adjustible perch LCAs, buy coil overs, get differernt conventional springs.
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post #15 of 16 Old 07-12-2009, 12:20 PM
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This is something to keep in mind...did you remove your rear LCA's? If so, did you have the suspension loaded as if it were sitting on the ground when you tightened the bolts? If not, you may have pre-loaded the LCA and that might be affecting the stance.

Just a thought....
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post #16 of 16 Old 07-12-2009, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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good call, yeah i take out the lca at the axle side to get the spring out. ill try loosening them and tightening them back up while its on the ground.

1990 GT hatch 5 speed
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