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post #1 of 30 Old 05-19-2009, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Cost to get spindles drilled for bolts?

I went to a couple of places today to get my spindles drilled for my bumpsteer kit. The one place wouldn't do it because it goes on a car, the other place wanted $75 to drill two holes. This price seemed a bit high for me to drill two 5/8" holes out.

I think I will just go out and buy a drill press over that price.

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post #2 of 30 Old 05-19-2009, 06:49 PM
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Hi Icey101,
As a Machinist , I'll tell right now, there is no way a Store Bought drill Press could turn slow enough and with enough torque to do the Job properly.
You will also run into fixturing Problem and the Hole might not be square and true and you don't end up with an elongated hole.

That Spindle is a Hard piece of Metal. You would be Better Off using a 1/2 High Torque Low Speed Hand drill , and step drilling it in 1/8 increments, But I still think you would be better off with letting a Pro do the Job.

Hope this Helps,

Scott


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post #3 of 30 Old 05-19-2009, 06:56 PM
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post #4 of 30 Old 05-19-2009, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Scott Peters View Post
Hi Icey101,
As a Machinist , I'll tell right now, there is no way a Store Bought drill Press could turn slow enough and with enough torque to do the Job properly.
You will also run into fixturing Problem and the Hole might not be square and true and you don't end up with an elongated hole.

That Spindle is a Hard piece of Metal. You would be Better Off using a 1/2 High Torque Low Speed Hand drill , and step drilling it in 1/8 increments, But I still think you would be better off with letting a Pro do the Job.

Hope this Helps,

Scott
X2! If you hand drill your spindles odds are you will ruin them! I speak from experience. I bought a set of spindles and didn't ask how they had been drilled out until after they were installed and used. They seemed fine at first, but the bolt has deformed the hole and now rocks back and forth very slightly. Problem is that I can feel it in the wheel.

Scott:

Is there any way to fix a set of spindles? Perhaps boring the hole a bit, and pressing in an insert of sort with a 5/8 ID?
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post #5 of 30 Old 05-19-2009, 10:41 PM Thread Starter
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I am really up in the air about this. If I knew how much of a pain it was going to be I would have just went with tapered pins instead of the bolt through tie-rod ends.

I really would prefer not using a hand drill, I figured a drill press would work. I did not know these would be such a pain to drill. To me an hour really seemed like alot of time to center and over size a tapered hole. I read the warning and such in the MM install instructions so I know how critical these holes are thats why I would prefer not to mess them up...but I also hate to spend $75 making two holes about 1/8" bigger.
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post #6 of 30 Old 05-20-2009, 03:20 AM
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Thinking out loud here...so be gentle and hopefully forgiving.

Why could you not drill your hole(like the OP said with a drill press), get it as accurate as possible, then have someone with a welder tack it in place or more than tack?

Kinda like the "balljoints fit loose in their socket" thread a while back.
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post #7 of 30 Old 05-20-2009, 03:37 AM
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I had no problem at all performing this myself, probably took me a half hour at most. I put it upside down in a heavy duty vise- clamping where the strut would bolt on. Then placed vise on the base of my large old school craftsmen drill press. Then just had to slightly shim the vise to get the bottom side portion to be drilled out level-- left to right and front to back. Then at this point I would start drilling slowly bringing the 5/8" bit in and out keeping the area WELL lubed with power lube. My drill press was at medium speed during this.

This was done to '96+ style spindle, I would think the older spindles would be harder to do.

This would be impossible to do by hand......obviously.

The spindles are cast which is pretty soft. Also as I brought the 5/8" drill bit down to the angled hole I made sure it contacted evenly all the way around, thus proving it to be drilled square/ level.

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post #8 of 30 Old 05-20-2009, 07:40 AM
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Thumbs up

Scott:
Is there any way to fix a set of spindles? Perhaps boring the hole a bit, and pressing in an insert of sort with a 5/8 ID?[/I]


XPS2,
I would think that you could have a Machine Shop Bore your Spindle hole over size and Centered/Square and press in a Bushing , But unless you have a Buddy who is a machinist....I think at this time, it might be cheaper and safer to Buy new Spindels.

2ndsideways:
Your method is what I what talking about before. You "fixtured" the spindle the correct way. Not everybody will have Your skills or a Drill Press capable of this. I would use my Bridge Port for this kind of work ,but it can be done other ways. Nice Write up.

Scott

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post #9 of 30 Old 05-20-2009, 08:08 AM
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I took mine to a machine shop and had them ream the holes in the spindle for a tight slip fit to the bolts. Fixturing was the hard part, and the there is very little to clamp on to ream the holes. I would suggest paying to have them done at a professional machine shop. You don't want any slop in the holes, that is why I had the holes fitted to the bolts.

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post #10 of 30 Old 05-20-2009, 08:10 AM Thread Starter
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And how much did you pay a machine shop to do them? As I mentioned above an hour to do this seems like decent amount of time for someone that does this for a living. I really felt the price felt more like I don't feel like screwing with it but heres a price.

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post #11 of 30 Old 05-20-2009, 08:50 AM
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Seems like I paid $50-$60 to have mine reamed. And they need to be set up for a tight fit.
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post #12 of 30 Old 05-20-2009, 10:40 AM
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I did not pay anything to have it done, I just traded some design work and consulting.

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post #13 of 30 Old 05-20-2009, 01:40 PM
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Seems like I paid $50-$60 to have mine reamed. And they need to be set up for a tight fit.
I paid $120 for my first set of spindles to be drilled and then reamed to size. As MFE said, it's important that the bolt be a tight fit in the hole. (This also means that you shouldn't use a twist0dril to finish the hole -- twist drills don't leave round holes -- you need a reamer for that.

This also means you need to use a very good quality bolt from a manufacturer with a QC process thats worth a damn -- hardware store grade-whatever bolts aren't going to cut it here, obviously.

For my second set of spindles, I got lazy and just used the tapered studs available from Maximum Motorsports (or any circle-track dealer, for that matter.) MUCH cheaper and easier! The only drawback is if you need to have a really big bumpsteer spacer stack, the stud won't be long enough. But if that is the case, you have other issues with your steering geometry, most likely.

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post #14 of 30 Old 05-20-2009, 01:58 PM
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I'm using the tapered stud from Steeda on mine. With the full K-member/A-arms steering rack moved up as high as it'd go, and using all the spacers in the steer kit, my tie's are still angled up...ever so slightly.

I was going to try the upper mount A-arm holes, but MFE said that i'd need to use a big spacer to correct the angle.....I have no options other than to buy a conv. kit and I just don't see me doing that. I'll make do...
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post #15 of 30 Old 05-20-2009, 07:17 PM
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How much luck have you guys had in finding a decent machine shop? I've had some problems finding a decent one around here. They all seem to be pretty Mickey Mouse.

Good thing I read this thread too, I'm in the middle of installing my MM setup in the front and it's a step I completely forgot about, I'll have to start an intensive search for a machine shop to drill mine out too and get my spindles over there so I'm not waiting on them at the end.
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post #16 of 30 Old 05-20-2009, 08:11 PM
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Find out what shops the local circle-track and drag racers use, then go talk to them about what you want to do, and go with the one you're most comfortable with.
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post #17 of 30 Old 05-21-2009, 02:14 AM
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It only cost me 30 dollars to get mine done at a local shop, though im not so sure they reamed it.

I would leave it to the pros.

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post #18 of 30 Old 05-21-2009, 01:33 PM
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I had mine reamed by a local reputable machine shop MANY years ago (gusssing $60-ish range).

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post #19 of 30 Old 05-21-2009, 04:53 PM
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I got lucky in that the shop at my work had the drill press and a mechanic willing to take his time and do it right. The hard part was getting the spindle clamped down in the press perfectly aligned with the drill bit. After that, just slowly drill the hole out. Mine have been on for over a year now. When I went to remove them to ship the Aarms back to Griggs for the SLA conversion (they needed to weld on the shock mount tabs) the bumpsteer bolt had become one with the spindles, literally. Both sides don't budge. I'd say it's tight. Tony (2k2GT) saw them in person.

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post #20 of 30 Old 05-21-2009, 04:56 PM
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I had mine reamed by a local reputable machine shop MANY years ago (gusssing $60-ish range).

That looks like Griggs stuff? Why do you have the bolt in there upside down? I believe Griggs says NOT to put it like that unless I read wrong.

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post #21 of 30 Old 05-21-2009, 05:20 PM
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My guess is it's that way for wheel clearance
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post #22 of 30 Old 05-21-2009, 06:37 PM
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My guess is it's that way for wheel clearance
Makes sense.
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post #23 of 30 Old 05-22-2009, 08:34 AM
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Took me about 45 minutes to do mine, so $75 is not that out of line.
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post #24 of 30 Old 05-22-2009, 08:45 AM
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I know they say NOT to, but IMOHO, that is if you are still on the threads engagement portion of the bolt.
I also do it for inspection: I went theu the front end, and paint a yellow stripe on every nut/bolt. Should they move (loosen) the lines dont line up, and visually easier for me to inspect from the top. Thats all, convenience.

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post #25 of 30 Old 05-22-2009, 09:41 AM
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Wow, good idea!
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post #26 of 30 Old 05-22-2009, 04:38 PM
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20 bones at a local machine shop in Beaumont, TX about a year ago. Depends on how much skilled labor is running in your area and how much of a rush you are in. I dropped a spare set and he had them back to me in a week. Realize this area is in the Gulf so skilled labor was at a premium then. I think the biggest thing is how quickly you want them and the type of machine shop you go to. I went to a general machine shop, not one that does aircraft, engine, or specialized parts.

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post #27 of 30 Old 05-22-2009, 05:25 PM
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I just did mine myself with a 1/2" drill motor. I own a machine shop and can tell you that these are not hard compared to most metals used in our trade. I used a 9/16" drill and went thru the spindle from the bottom up, using the taper already in the spindle to align the drill. It will take some skill to make sure the drill stays straight and square to the hole. Once drilled, I used a 5/8 reamer and pulled the reamer thru the hole from the bottom up, again using caution to keap the reamer straight and square to the hole. My results were perfect as the fit of the bolt shaft was tight and little to no wobble in the hole. I wont tell you this way is better than a bridgeport or similar milling machine and a rigid fixture, but it can be done with attention to detail and correct tools.
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post #28 of 30 Old 05-22-2009, 10:46 PM
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I paid $20 and watched the guy do it in about 15 minutes......
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post #29 of 30 Old 05-22-2009, 11:15 PM Thread Starter
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I paid $20 and watched the guy do it in about 15 minutes......
This is more inline with what I figured. I think I will hit up a couple more machine shops next week...its just a pain with my current work hours, this is the last thing I need done. I really want it back on the road.
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post #30 of 30 Old 05-25-2009, 03:21 PM
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I have a HD drill press and did it myself using two different size reamers, no drill. I think the reamers cost me less then $25.

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