check over my 5 lug list for me please. - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 05-14-2009, 05:33 PM Thread Starter
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check over my 5 lug list for me please.

so this summer im going to do the 5 lug, ive got other threads on this but i figured id do a current one.

i have got 4 bulletts. 2 have 245-45-17 bfg gforce kdws with about 50% tread left i guess. other 2 have no tires, probably going to get 2 gforce sports on there and rock the two kdws's until i can afford 2 more sports. one bullitt is a little lighter in color than the others but that can be fixed another day.

aside from that my plans are as follows:

94-95 spindles (local junkyard charges 26.00 a piece)
94-95 calipers (junkyard charges 11 a piece)
94-04 rotors ( they are the same 94-04 right?) i can get 2 from my friend brand new for 50 total.
then pads from advance for a 94-95 are 38 for wearever golds
then i need hubs. junkyard is 26 per side, advance 67 per side, dont know what to do here, i like the junkyard price but i might want new ones.
then i need that fitting for the passenger caliper 4 dollars on LRS.
now what else is needed in the front? dust caps? and 2 lugs i know.

then the control arm thing, my ca's have shot bj's and bushings. is it cheaper to get bjs from advance (im an employee i get 20% off advance stuff) and busings from lrs, and pay to put them on, or to get the FRPP lower arms for 274? if i do that first way, then should i get 94-95 bj's fox bj's and the spacer, or 96-04 bj's?

then the rear is going to be ranger/aerostar axles (12 a side from j-yard)
then drums (j.yard is 8 a side, advance ones are 64 per side. i think thats after my discount too.

i was gonna do pbr's but dont wanna do the master cyl. now, i read that pbrs you basically will have a soft pedal, so 94-95s are only a little bigger single piston. so im just trying to get these bullits on basically. anything youd change? i think i got it about as simple as i need it. please inform me of whatever else i need. do i need braided stainless brake lines?

also i think im going to get new iso's inthe front (ford ones) and take them out in the rear with some electrical tape, sound like the best plan for c-springs im trying to get to sit level?

thanks guys.


1990 GT hatch 5 speed

Last edited by fivespeedsteed; 05-15-2009 at 12:26 AM.
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post #2 of 11 Old 05-16-2009, 08:11 AM Thread Starter
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do i need conversion stainless lines?

there was a 95 v6 at my junkyard i got the 2 front calipers, with mounts andbolts, spindles and hubs with dust shield for about 75 today


1990 GT hatch 5 speed

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post #3 of 11 Old 05-19-2009, 06:40 AM
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For your ball joints, since they need replacing, go with 94-95 pieces. This will avoid you having to make a spacer to cover to tall ball joint of the later fox body years.

I'd replace all the rubber lines with stainless.

And since you are already tearing apart the rear, why not spend a little bit more and go disc brake out back?

You'll need:
- mounting gear (I can get you a link where I got mine)
- rotors
- calipers
- proportioning valve

I'm doing a setup close to yours, except I'm running disc brakes out back, and I'm running the dual pistion pbr's up front.

Charlie R
1992 GT | AutoX / Weekend Cruiser
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post #4 of 11 Old 05-19-2009, 05:27 PM
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i would also suggest holding off until you can swap out the drums for rear discs. it took me two years of collecting different parts and selling other parts to piece everything together but after all the planning it all went on in a 3 hour, hassle free install.

unless you like tinkering, doing it right the first time is the best route.

Call North cobra... they can send you an entire rear kit, if your interested and MM can send you all the necessary adaptors and master cylinder.

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post #5 of 11 Old 05-19-2009, 05:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fivespeedsteed View Post
now what else is needed in the front? dust caps? and 2 lugs i know.
You'll need spindle nuts -- these are not supposed to be reused, according to Ford.

You'll need a new master cylinder matched to your front brakes. This may be a challenge if you're still running rear drum brakes since the rear drums require a "fast-fill" master cylinders. Foxes got these, but '93 Cobras and 94+ cars didn't.

Quote:
then the control arm thing, my ca's have shot bj's and bushings. is it cheaper to get bjs from advance (im an employee i get 20% off advance stuff) and busings from lrs, and pay to put them on, or to get the FRPP lower arms for 274?
Get the FRPP arms and use spacers. You can't get the Fox arms with SN95 balljoints, and if you run the longer SN95 arms, you'll end up with too much negative camber and tire rubbing issues.

Quote:
i was gonna do pbr's
Which PBR's? The Cobra PBR's or the GT PBRs?

In either case, you're probably going to need a different master cylinder.

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post #6 of 11 Old 05-19-2009, 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by gt40mkII View Post
Get the FRPP arms and use spacers. You can't get the Fox arms with SN95 balljoints, and if you run the longer SN95 arms, you'll end up with too much negative camber and tire rubbing issues.
But you can go to advanced auto, ask for 94 - 95 ball joints and press them into your fox control arms. This eliminates the need to use spacers, and the cost is the same since you are already replacing them.

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post #7 of 11 Old 05-21-2009, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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right now im not too upset with my stock brakes. they do alright for me now, im just trying to get 5 lugged somehow, becuase my tires dont pass inspection, and i really need bj's bad. the main goal is to not mess with the mc or bb for now. do i need stainless lines, or are they just preferred.?

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But you can go to advanced auto, ask for 94 - 95 ball joints and press them into your fox control arms. This eliminates the need to use spacers, and the cost is the same since you are already replacing them.
yes i know that, but see i need the busings done too. so i dont know what is more cost effective

1990 GT hatch 5 speed
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post #8 of 11 Old 05-24-2009, 08:29 AM Thread Starter
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ive got someone that can press in new bj's and bushings into my control arms for 20 bucks. should i go all out and get 94-04 moog's or just settle for the trw ones? the ones on latemodel are 27 a piece, can they be trusted? thats the same price as the oe brand we sell at advance about, and i hear they are crap.

so LRS 27 x2 = 54 for both
moog at advance with my discount is about 80 for both sides
trw's would be about 60-70 after my discount.

what do you think? the best prices on ca bushings are on latemodel i believe.
you all are sure im going to need a bigger mc even if im staying single caliper? the 94-95 calipers are 66mm, what are the fox ones, 50mm or so?

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post #9 of 11 Old 05-24-2009, 06:03 PM Thread Starter
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alright well i got moog problem solvers and some other stuff for the swap. do i need stainless lines or are they just preferred

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post #10 of 11 Old 05-30-2009, 12:35 PM
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alright well i got moog problem solvers and some other stuff for the swap. do i need stainless lines or are they just preferred
Good choice on the Moog. Isn't the "need" for something mostly a subjective determination? With that said, you probably "need" new lines given the age of the stock rubber stuff. Now, compare the price of replacement rubber pieces with the braided components. Given the performance and longevity advantage, you "need" braided line IMHO.

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post #11 of 11 Old 05-30-2009, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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well im fine replacing them down the road, i had planned on it. for now i just need to do my 5 lug and balljoints so i can squeeze it through this next months inspection. what im asking is if they are required to put the 95 calipers on.

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