Positive camber issue
Here is how the saga goes.
It all started when I took the drivers side of my 98 cobra up on a curb. Not paying attention. (yes I'm an IDIOT)
Trashed the aluminum 3.5" bogart rim. I think the aluminum rim and skinny tire took the blunt of the impact. I have coil-overs on the car too.
I tweeked the top of the strut shaft (Lakewood 90/10) and sent the HPM CC plate up through the Strut tower.(Not high enough to damage the hood) The plates are not damaged,the a-arm is not bent.
This is what I did to fix it. I oviously purchased a new rim. Took a hammer and reshaped the top of the strut tower. Used plates and bolts to sandwich the top of the tower flat and it actually came out perfect. To take things to the next level I made a template of the under side of the strut tower and had 1/8" steel plates cut and slotted to mach the tower and had them welded in under the strut tower on both sides of the car. Then alittle primer and paint job to make things look factory. Came out very nice.
I installed new rotors and brakes(Brembo replacement rotors and sport pads) along with 2 new tokico Alumina 5 way drag struts with my existing coil over kit and existing CC plates (HPM 3 BOLT). Luckily I had the tokico's sitting in a box new from 2 years ago.
When I put everything back together with the CC plates in their previous locations I was left with positive camber. I figured no biggie I will adjust the plates and take out the positive camber and go for an alignment. I now have the plates adjusted all the way and still have .75 positive camber on both sides.(less than 1 degree positive). If it was just the one side that I wrecked I would say ok but it is both side equally. Could it be the plates that were welded in underneath the towers? They both sat perfectly flat under the towers.
I need to move the plates back to their respective locations and figure out this positive camber condition because I have the plates all the way over will not work when trying to achieve my caster positioning. No band aids. If the welded plates are effecting the geometry I will remove them and get the MM plates. (I'm probably ordering the MM Plates anyway)
I have had the car for 11 years! I know the car well. I know most mustangs have negative camber issues for drag apps. I have combatted that buy elongating the holes on top of the strut towers many years ago. Worked great with the HPM CC plates. I was always able to set camber where ever desired for my application. (Drag Racing)
Why is the camber so positive? Can anybody tell me what I might have done? (or maybe didn't do)
I have tokico drag struts, a upr coil over kit with stock fox a-arm, Aluminum HPM CC Plates and a stock "K" Member. The only changes made after the incident were the tokico's and the 1/8" steel plates that were welded underneath the towers.
I wish I would have known the MM CC Plates had a big plate under them because I would not have welded the plates under the towers and just bought the MM plates and called it a day. What should I be looking at when I take it a part this time.
I'm never on this section of the corral. I come to this section because I respect your insight on suspension geometry.
HELP! Thank You Dan.
1998 Cobra SOLD!
Last edited by SVT CAMR; 04-26-2009 at 09:50 PM.
Reason: Needed more information.