made myself some brake cooling ducts!!! (pics inside) - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 29 Old 04-09-2009, 11:53 PM Thread Starter
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made myself some brake cooling ducts!!! (pics inside)

finally got a chance to get my car on the lift at work. decided to do another low budget project. this is what i ended up with. to get a 3 inch pipe to fit i put the end in a vice and made it more oval then round. and the whole outlet of the setup is pointed at the rotor hat, not at the rotor face. i've heard that if it points at the face, the inside face cools alot more quickly then the ouside and cracking can occur. so with it pointed in the center, it gets evenly distributed through the cooling vanes in the rotor. pictures pretty much explain it all. any question just ask. as always, all comments are welcome.

i cut the dust sheild a little to wide on this side. the driver side is alot tighter fitting.



i used the nut that held the abs wire bracked. its usually on the top but i just moved it to the bottom to hold the end of the duct.


the intake horns (i guess ill call them that) just some aluminum flashing with an air duct for houses. i got everything from lowes/home depot. except the 3" tubing from the local exhaust shop.











the cool thing about this, is that the whole brake duct setup probably weighs less the the fog light setup. so i save maybe a pound or 2 off the front.

a few teasers of what i might try and do next.


315's on the front! shouldn't be too hard. this will include making custom flares for the fenders.


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Last edited by loudnslow98gt; 04-10-2009 at 12:03 AM.
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post #2 of 29 Old 04-10-2009, 08:50 AM
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You might reconsider using something a little more flexible for the hose...I suspect that dryer duct will beat itself to death in short order.

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post #3 of 29 Old 04-10-2009, 10:17 AM
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You might reconsider using something a little more flexible for the hose...I suspect that dryer duct will beat itself to death in short order.
X2, very shortly... that stuff is NOT meant to be flexed over and over. it will fall apart quickly.

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post #4 of 29 Old 04-10-2009, 04:24 PM
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X3 tried it and it ripped up good real quick.

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post #5 of 29 Old 04-10-2009, 04:30 PM
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What they said, but off topic....

Is that a Steeda 32mm swaybar, 1000lb spring....and a STOCK damper?!
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post #6 of 29 Old 04-10-2009, 04:33 PM
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If so, that has to ride horribly.

Good looking setup though, I might have to try to make something like this with my GT.
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post #7 of 29 Old 04-10-2009, 06:13 PM
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As others have said, that dryer duct will live a short, violent life. And getting black-flagged because your super-hoopty brake ducts are scatteed all ober the track is no fun. You want this.

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post #8 of 29 Old 04-10-2009, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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You might reconsider using something a little more flexible for the hose...I suspect that dryer duct will beat itself to death in short order.
i thought about that also. but all the real stuff i found online was expensive. if it does fail i will get something different.

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post #9 of 29 Old 04-10-2009, 07:28 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by gt40mkII View Post
As others have said, that dryer duct will live a short, violent life. And getting black-flagged because your super-hoopty brake ducts are scatteed all ober the track is no fun. You want this.
yeah i came across that suff. ill probably pick up 6 ft of it. is that 6 ft. not stretched out? or stretched out?

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post #10 of 29 Old 04-10-2009, 07:32 PM Thread Starter
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What they said, but off topic....

Is that a Steeda 32mm swaybar, 1000lb spring....and a STOCK damper?!
yeah, its the HD steeda bar, not 1000lb spring, and yes... a stock damper. funny u should mention dampers, cause they are next on my list. i came across some money so they will be done soon. as for the springs, steeda used to make a spring call the superlite sport spring. i dont know the exact rate on them but im pretty sure its no 1000. plus they are progressive, so the ride isn't really that bad.


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post #11 of 29 Old 04-10-2009, 08:24 PM
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yeah i came across that suff. ill probably pick up 6 ft of it. is that 6 ft. not stretched out? or stretched out?
It doesn't stretch more than a few percent..

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post #12 of 29 Old 04-11-2009, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
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i've heard that if it points at the face, the inside face cools alot more quickly then the ouside and cracking can occur. so with it pointed in the center, it gets evenly distributed through the cooling vanes in the rotor.
Does anyone have pictures of a rotor with a crack only on the inside due to the brake duct not directing all the air to the exact center of the rotor?

Id really like to see one.

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post #13 of 29 Old 04-11-2009, 10:55 AM
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Never took any pictures of mine when they cracked, but I've since blocked off part of the duct outlet to keep it off the face of the rotor. Problem solved so far.

And I should note, they don't crack on the inside face, they crack on the outside face because the inside is contracting faster than the outside after heating.

Last edited by MFE; 04-11-2009 at 12:03 PM.
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post #14 of 29 Old 04-11-2009, 11:54 AM Thread Starter
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Never took any pictures of mine when they cracked, but I've since blocked off part of the duct outlet to keep it off the face of the rotor. Problem solved so far.
u got any pics of ur setup?

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post #15 of 29 Old 04-11-2009, 12:03 PM
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Not since I installed the block-offs.
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post #16 of 29 Old 04-11-2009, 12:10 PM
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That hose WILL fail. Getting a 6' length has always been a little bit short for me. Here is a link to some cheaper neoprene coated stuff that is nearly as durable as the silicone stuff but much cheaper. 10' for about $50.

http://www.pitstopusa.com/detail.aspx?ID=50414

This is the first place I found the neoprene stuff, you may be able to find it cheaper

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post #17 of 29 Old 04-11-2009, 04:10 PM
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Hmmm, I have that exact same dryer duct hose on my roadrace car for over 4 years and I have not had an issue. One of the great things about it besides it was cheap is that the hose crushed down just a bit where things were close and now there is no rubbing anywhere. I don't have any ducts on the spindle side. Instead I have the hose zip tied to the strut and spindle so it stays right in the center of the rotor.

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post #18 of 29 Old 04-11-2009, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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if it fails ill get some better stuff. but by-tor seems to think, as well as has proof, that it should last pretty long. i'll just bring some ducktape with me to any track even i do, in case it falls apart, i could get thru the day. they ill get some better stuff.

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post #19 of 29 Old 04-12-2009, 07:52 AM
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Since I don't have any kind of tubes that the hose mounts to on my spindle it does keep the hose from flexing when turning. I will try to post some pics of my set up.

If you have a problem at the track with the hose seperating then you might want to consider taking the ducts off of the spindle and zip tie the end to the srtut as close to the center of the rotor as you can get. Another tip, when I mounted the hose on the strut I poked 2 small holes about 3 inches apart on one side to loop the zip tie through.

You also might want to consider losing the dust shields you may trap alot of heat against the inside face of the rotor between track sessions.

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Last edited by By-Tor; 04-12-2009 at 08:03 AM.
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post #20 of 29 Old 05-04-2009, 08:43 PM Thread Starter
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got an update with some hard numbers.

the aluminum tubing broke about a week after the install so i got some of the real stuff. much better. i took a laser temp gauge with me and measured the heat of the rotors after my runs. i did have to do 1 big sweeper onto the main straight then pit in before i could measure them. so the fronts were at a cool 375ish. and the rears were at 650ish. so the ducts work pretty good.

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post #21 of 29 Old 05-04-2009, 09:15 PM
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so the ducts work pretty good.
Comparing front to rear temps doesn't tell you your ducts are working. Plug the ducts with tape for a session and check your front temps then...then you'll at least have a better idea if your ducts are working, and even then...maybe not. Rotor temps rise and fall pretty damn quickly and measuring them after a session doesn't tell you the peak temps or the decay rate afterward. But it's better than measuring front vs rear
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post #22 of 29 Old 05-04-2009, 09:40 PM Thread Starter
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Comparing front to rear temps doesn't tell you your ducts are working. Plug the ducts with tape for a session and check your front temps then...then you'll at least have a better idea if your ducts are working, and even then...maybe not. Rotor temps rise and fall pretty damn quickly and measuring them after a session doesn't tell you the peak temps or the decay rate afterward. But it's better than measuring front vs rear
i hear what ur saying. i didn't have tape with me so couldn't do that. but the fact that they were almost 300 degrees cooler then the rears says something. ill try the tape thing the next time im out.

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post #23 of 29 Old 05-04-2009, 09:48 PM
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but the fact that they were almost 300 degrees cooler then the rears says something.
I agree it says something, I just wouldn't want to see you take it for granted that it says what you think it does. Your ebrake failing to release would be just one thing that might give you similar results
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post #24 of 29 Old 05-09-2009, 08:35 PM
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maybe you can measure left to right
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post #25 of 29 Old 05-13-2009, 10:52 PM
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Been there and done that.

The dryer duct is just not flexible enough.

At first it looks like it may work






buuuuut
after a few lock-to-lock turns, and some frustration....


Modifications worth noting:
Cobra brakes, BBK headers, H&Rs, Bilstiens
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post #26 of 29 Old 05-16-2009, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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mine didn't get that bad. but they did split open right where they mount the the tubing that points at the rotor hat.

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post #27 of 29 Old 05-16-2009, 07:30 PM
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And I should note, they don't crack on the inside face, they crack on the outside face because the inside is contracting faster than the outside after heating.

So far in testing the outside rotor temps have been very consistent (+-15°) with the inner face of the rotors with my cooling ducts installed.

This may be due to the increased air flow the exposed face of the rotor sees compared to the inner face that's more shrouded from direct airflow. Additional testing needs to be done to determine why the inner rotor face isnt cooler than the outer rotor face when the brake duct is directing air over it towards the hub and cooling vanes. Stay tuned.

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post #28 of 29 Old 05-17-2009, 07:42 AM
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Do you still have your brake backing plates installed? If so, either trim them so that the entire inner rotor face is exposed or remove them entirely.

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post #29 of 29 Old 07-18-2009, 11:05 PM
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cheaper hoses

Go to pegasus racing supplies and search for part # 3620

12ft for $50
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