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post #1 of 7 Old 04-06-2009, 07:53 AM Thread Starter
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caster

How much caster can a person realisticly run on a sn-95 mustang? I currently have Steeda offset bushings in my lower control arms and have been debating putting a tubular K-member in the car while I have it completely apart for paint. Although the weight savings will be nice I am really more concerned about cleaning up the engine bay. I like the handling of the car already so I am hesitant to change the a-arms and go to coilovers. Most of the K members with spring perches though have the relocated attachment points for the a-arms though. IOW can I run the offset a-arm bushings with the relocated attachment points without trouble?


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post #2 of 7 Old 04-06-2009, 07:59 AM
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I ran the Steeda offset A-arm bushings in my car before the K-swap. I want to say I was around 6 or 6.6 degrees positive caster. I did have the holes drilled out pretty good in the tower to get as much as possible.

While the Steeda bushings move the wheels forward a bit, it's nothing major and wouldn't be any concern for fender/bumper interferance(sp?)

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post #3 of 7 Old 04-06-2009, 11:06 AM Thread Starter
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I have a full steeda suspension underneath so alot of things have been moved around. IIRC though I am in the 5* range yet on the caster. I know the Steeda instructions said to run as much as possible but I am curious, especially with all the clearance issues I've already had, if I can use the offset bushings with the modified K member pickup points.

What spring did you use on the Granatelli kit? How is the handling before and after? I am basicly looking for the same thing as you, a true dual purpose car.

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post #4 of 7 Old 04-06-2009, 01:13 PM
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While I cannot give you hard data/numbers, I can tell you the ride is alot better, the mid corner grip is better and just all around has a better ride.

Again, in my opinion, the stock A-arm offset bushings from Steeda don't move things enough to cause any issues. I see no problem running a tube-K with your stock lower arms with those bushings.

As for the spring I started with, it was a 300. My car weighs a bit more than it should and I felt that 375 was a good rate for what I do with my car.

I'm still very please with my car, I just need to forget the 4 years of driving i've done to take advantage of the better handling. I won't lie, it's frustrating at the moment at autocross on street tires, but I think where i'll be more pleased will be the open track venues.

But again, i'm not looking to dominate autocross, or the drag strip or be the "hot shot" at the HPDE's. I just want something that will do everything sorta above average and still drive it to the movies/cruise's and local car meets. I want a FUN car.
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post #5 of 7 Old 04-06-2009, 10:20 PM
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I was told to get asmuch castor as I can, So I'm gonna do my best to recreate the same castor a Mercedes SLK has. If that car had any more castor the wheels would be tilting left and right. although I have a foxbody, a fox4 should be the same.

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post #6 of 7 Old 04-07-2009, 12:04 AM
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just be sure your cross caster spec ...is within specs...this adjusts the pull for road crown...normally you want a slight pull to the left.. usually why the left caster spec will be lower than the right...


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Last edited by d90212; 04-07-2009 at 12:07 AM.
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post #7 of 7 Old 04-07-2009, 12:10 AM
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I dont see how the car limits the amount of caster I mean how much can you make it have? Id say build things adjustable and tune thats what its about. I just made a caster plate for my gt and it made a worlds difference and I havent even checked anything I just put them on and added positive caster!!
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