Rear Cobra Brake install problem. - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 12 Old 04-02-2009, 03:13 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Cobra Brake install problem.

I am installing my cobra rear brakes on my 95 GT noticed that rear caliper mounts are really close to the rotor.

I read that the cobra caliper mounts are a little different. I thought about grinding my mounts to clear.

is there a braking advantage with cobra rear caliper mounts (besides that they clear the rotor?

also how much clearence do i need from the mount to the rotor

thanks fellas for your time
Jay


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post #2 of 12 Old 04-02-2009, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaysch302 View Post
I am installing my cobra rear brakes on my 95 GT noticed that rear caliper mounts are really close to the rotor.

I read that the cobra caliper mounts are a little different.
Yep. The cobra brackets have a wider slot to accomodate a wider rotor.

Quote:
I thought about grinding my mounts to clear.
That will work just fine.

Quote:
is there a braking advantage with cobra rear caliper mounts (besides that they clear the rotor?
No.

Quote:
also how much clearence do i need from the mount to the rotor
It doesn't take much. The rotor shouldn't be moving with respect to the bracket. The only reason is would is if the hub or axle are bending under hard cornering (REALLY hard -- it'd be pretty tough to get this to happen with street tires and a factory suspension.)

I'd open it up to whatever you're comfirtable with. If you see evidence of it rubbing, grind on it more.

If your anal, you can always get the correct Cobra brackets at the local Ford dealership.


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post #3 of 12 Old 04-03-2009, 07:59 AM
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I ground mine, it took prolly less than 1/8".
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post #4 of 12 Old 04-03-2009, 08:53 AM
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If they're close to the outside of the rotor, shim the brackets out from the axle with washers. If theyr'e close to the inside of the rotor, you may be due for a trac-lok rebuild.

In any case make sure you have the rotor tightened down on the axle before you make any final determinations.
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post #5 of 12 Old 04-03-2009, 01:03 PM
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If they're close to the outside of the rotor, shim the brackets out from the axle with washers. If theyr'e close to the inside of the rotor, you may be due for a trac-lok rebuild.

In any case make sure you have the rotor tightened down on the axle before you make any final determinations.
+1!

I had occasional rubbing with really hard right hand turns. Just rebuilt my rear from rotor to rotor and no more rubbing.
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post #6 of 12 Old 04-06-2009, 03:15 PM
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Just my .02, Id buy new ones.. The first time I did the conversion I ground down the caliper braket.. It worked but I never felt confortable with sections cut away. After about a week I went to the local ford parts "palace" and purchased the new Cobra brakets.. all fit and were centered.

And as stated above, there are no advantages to new pieces.. and if you must grid make sure the bracket is centered.

Best of Luck

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post #7 of 12 Old 04-07-2009, 06:23 AM
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Just my .02, Id buy new ones.. The first time I did the conversion I ground down the caliper braket.. It worked but I never felt confortable with sections cut away. After about a week I went to the local ford parts "palace" and purchased the new Cobra brakets.. all fit and were centered.

And as stated above, there are no advantages to new pieces.. and if you must grid make sure the bracket is centered.

Best of Luck
I agree. I have ground mine down as well, but am not comfortable with it. I plan to swap mine out for cobra calipers before my next track session. It seems like it would be easy to make a stress riser if not ground down right.
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post #8 of 12 Old 04-07-2009, 07:56 AM
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Jeez, how much did you guys grind down?
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post #9 of 12 Old 04-07-2009, 08:07 AM
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I ground down until it would clear. It really was not all that much, but I would feel better with a factory cast caliper.
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post #10 of 12 Old 04-08-2009, 01:03 AM Thread Starter
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thanks fellas for all the replies

I have a detroit tru trac rearend so it axles should be centered good.

I removed them it looked like i was going to have to gring about 1/8 of inch of the inside of the outside.

Then i looked at how bad my slide pins looked and decided just to replace them. I went to ford and bought them today.

If this was a street car i would have prolly ran the stock GT brackets.

Thanks for all the tips/advice

Jay


95 GT 331ci, T-76 770whp/675tq [email protected]
2015 C7 Stingray 7spd manual
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post #11 of 12 Old 04-08-2009, 10:26 PM
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Grinding them is no big deal- there is plenty of metal left. Mine have held up fine for a couple years with 14" wide slicks and Hawk HP+ pads- that's bound to be more stress than most people put them through. Before that I ran them for a couple years with tiny 275 Kumho V710s.
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post #12 of 12 Old 04-08-2009, 11:37 PM
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As everyone has said, grinding should work but I'd just go for the correct Cobra part. I've seen some scary endplay with worn out Traction Loks!
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