Subframe question/ suggestions!! - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 03-30-2009, 11:25 PM Thread Starter
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Subframe question/ suggestions!!

I have a 93 hatch that I want to put sub frames on. What brand and style would be the best for a mostly street driven car? I have Maximum Motor sports cc plates and motorsport springs. Im looking for the weld in style. Also how much is a reasonable price to weld in? Thanks corral.

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post #2 of 13 Old 03-30-2009, 11:34 PM
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MM full length...........


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post #3 of 13 Old 03-30-2009, 11:53 PM
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Who cut the metal to length and did initial bends I don't think is as important as who does the install, fits the metal and welds it up...having said that, I've used the MM pieces on the Mustangs which I've installed sfc's.
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post #4 of 13 Old 03-31-2009, 11:56 AM
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I just installed some MM XL's last week, and I honestly dont know why they arent the first mod I did to the car.

Down to one '86 GT riding some jackstands, but there's somethin in the works!!
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post #5 of 13 Old 03-31-2009, 12:20 PM
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^I totally agree. Unless you are prevented by rules in a specific class you want to run, sfc's should be done before anything else. It makes absolutely zero sense to throw a stiffer suspension set up at the stock, flexy unibody.
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post #6 of 13 Old 03-31-2009, 12:44 PM
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Around me shops are getting $100-150 to weld in SFC's. I do them on the side at times for people and charge $75. The key is how the car is supported. It needs to be supported by the wheels and I try to get it as level as possible.
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post #7 of 13 Old 03-31-2009, 03:33 PM
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^If you are doing the grinding, shaping and fitting, plus getting as much weld as possible, $75 is a STEAL!! The set on my SN95 took me nearly three hours to get right...without interior disassembly...I guess I'm one slow worker.
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post #8 of 13 Old 03-31-2009, 03:41 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys, I think I will go with the MM.
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post #9 of 13 Old 03-31-2009, 03:48 PM
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Might I suggest these? http://www.stranoparts.com/partdetai...=76&ModelID=22


Take a look, they are beefy. 1.25x2" square tube with .188" wall. They even help reinforce the torque box (and we know that can be an issue). The picture is Red, but you can get them in black as well.

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post #10 of 13 Old 03-31-2009, 04:18 PM Thread Starter
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What is the difference in full length and standard? Are the full lengths better? Its It work getting the powder coated ones?

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post #11 of 13 Old 04-20-2009, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bull4life View Post
What is the difference in full length and standard? Are the full lengths better? Its It work getting the powder coated ones?
I was wondering the same thing.....would i be better off with the full lengths?
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post #12 of 13 Old 04-20-2009, 02:47 PM
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Wish i had seen those before I bought mine, sam... I might have given the MM stuff a second thought

The longer the brace, the better IMO. THe more of the subframes it can tie in, the more effective it will be at bracing them from movement.

As far as the powdercoating, thats a personal preference. Ive been told that the PC is tougher than paint, but you'll wind up gridning or sanding the paint or powercoat off where your weld points are, anyway. I ordered mine bare, masked off where I was welding, and painted the rest. So far so good!

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post #13 of 13 Old 04-20-2009, 03:02 PM
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Full lenghts have more overlap:

_____==-----------===____

or

_======-----------=====_


Coated or uncoated, that is up to you. You still need to clean them up before welding. You can always paint "before" (3M spray WELDCOAT paint), or paint with Rustoleum afterwards...

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