camber/toe adjustment necessary?? - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 13 Old 03-24-2009, 04:06 AM Thread Starter
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camber/toe adjustment necessary??

My front driver's side sits about 5/8" LOWER than the other 3 corners of the car. It's cake to go in and adjust the coilover to match the rest but how much will it affect the camber and toe-in that I just had professionally aligned??


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post #2 of 13 Old 03-24-2009, 10:10 AM
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It's going to change and how much and which way depends on the angle of your lower contol arms at this ride height. Don't forget it gets worse when you sit in the car.

I don't know about the rest of you guys but I weight my car to simulate me in the drives seat and then set ride height, corner weights, and align.


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post #3 of 13 Old 03-24-2009, 10:19 AM
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5/8 is significant. Raising it will reduce the camber a little bit on that side. Toe change will depend on the bumpsteer characteristics but I wouldn't bet on it being significant in the least, if it is, you have a huge bumpsteer problem.

You can measure and adjust camber and toe at home yourself. But if your car was corner-weighted the way it sits, you're going to screw it to high heaven changing the ride height on one corner.
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post #4 of 13 Old 03-24-2009, 08:21 PM Thread Starter
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hasn't been corner weighted yet, but I screwed up the order in which I should've done things:

Please correct me if I'm wrong

1. Corner weighted (taking into account driver weight)
2. ride height (ditto)
3. camber, toe (ditto)
4. bumpsteer

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post #5 of 13 Old 03-24-2009, 08:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redb*tch View Post
hasn't been corner weighted yet, but I screwed up the order in which I should've done things:

Please correct me if I'm wrong

1. Corner weighted (taking into account driver weight)
2. ride height (ditto)
3. camber, toe (ditto)
4. bumpsteer
Not quite..., or at least this is how I do it if it's the first time or after a set up change.
1. ride height with driver weight
2. corner weight adjustment with driver weight
3. note new ride height for future set up / checks
4. camber and toe with driver weight
5. bumpsteer

If you record your ride height after corner weight adjustment you can take a short cut for future quick checks by only checking ride height and skipping the scales.

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Last edited by Toys; 03-24-2009 at 09:09 PM.
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post #6 of 13 Old 03-25-2009, 09:21 PM
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once you get heights with the BARS UNHOOKED, you can move weight around without screwing up the heights if you go even rounds........like half's in the front and half's in the rear. should get you a percent either direction.

always ride hieght and scale with bars unhooked.
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post #7 of 13 Old 03-25-2009, 09:32 PM
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i noticed u said toe-in. u technically want a little toe-out for road racing to give u better turn in response. toe-in gives u straight line stability, like drag racing.

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post #8 of 13 Old 03-25-2009, 11:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loudnslow98gt View Post
i noticed u said toe-in. u technically want a little toe-out for road racing to give u better turn in response. toe-in gives u straight line stability, like drag racing.
That depends a LOT on the car's setup (especially A-arm bushing material) and driver preferance. I run 0 toe. Much more toe-out and the car gets unstable inder braking.

If you're running poly A-arm bushings, you want a little toe-in to combat dynamic toe-out under braking. The bushings will distort slightly under hard braking, letting the spindle move rearward, giving the car more tow-out. If you run rubber bushings, you need even more toe-in.

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post #9 of 13 Old 03-25-2009, 11:43 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by truckrookie View Post
once you get heights with the BARS UNHOOKED, you can move weight around without screwing up the heights if you go even rounds.......like half's in the front and half's in the rear. should get you a percent either direction.
always ride hieght and scale with bars unhooked.
what do you mean by this?

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post #10 of 13 Old 03-26-2009, 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by redb*tch View Post
what do you mean by this?
you can adjust weight percentages.......or the cross, diagonal, whatever you want to call it without f-ing up the ride heights with even turns on front and rear spring adjustments, be it coil over or conventional with jack screws.


i can have a car at the correct hieghts with 64% cross, when you want a RR car to be at 50%, on a standard 1/8" per turn adjuster that would take about 5 turns on each corner to get back to 50 and the heights wouldn't change.

RIDE HEIGHTS WILL NOT TELL YOU THAT YOUR WEIGHTS ARE CORRECT, see above

this is how our alignments start, and it's done with no springs and the chassis blocked up to get the roll centers where they belong.
[IMG][/IMG]


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post #11 of 13 Old 03-26-2009, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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got it!! Thanks

That is quite the set-up. What series do you run in?

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post #12 of 13 Old 03-27-2009, 09:07 AM
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Originally Posted by redb*tch View Post
My front driver's side sits about 5/8" LOWER than the other 3 corners of the car.
What were the measurements made to, and how certain are you that the car was sitting on a sufficiently flat surface when you made these measurements?


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post #13 of 13 Old 03-28-2009, 01:51 AM Thread Starter
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top of the fenderlip and the floor is very flat

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