Ken03KBGTvert Griggs SLA picture thread - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 33 Old 03-13-2009, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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Ken03KBGTvert Griggs SLA picture thread

://i32.photobucket./albums/d12/cvgtpony03/100_4078.
://i32.photobucket./albums/d12/cvgtpony03/100_4073.
://i32.photobucket./albums/d12/cvgtpony03/100_4074.
://i32.photobucket./albums/d12/cvgtpony03/100_4075.
://i32.photobucket./albums/d12/cvgtpony03/100_4077.
://i32.photobucket./albums/d12/cvgtpony03/100_4097.
://i32.photobucket./albums/d12/cvgtpony03/100_4101.
://i32.photobucket./albums/d12/cvgtpony03/100_4098.
://i32.photobucket./albums/d12/cvgtpony03/100_4060.

If you add h t t p with no spaces to the beginning, c o m with no spaces after photobucket., and j p g with no spaces to the end, you get some pictures.




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post #2 of 33 Old 03-13-2009, 10:46 PM
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Do you have a spacer between the nut and the spherical joint? I can't really tell.

ps: that's a crazy tall bumpsteer stack even with '96+ spindles. Eek.


Last edited by Moving Target; 03-14-2009 at 01:47 AM. Reason: adding a word..."bumpsteer"
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post #3 of 33 Old 03-13-2009, 11:29 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moving Target View Post
Do you have a spacer between the nut and the spherical joint? I can't really tell.

ps: that's a crazy tall stack even with '96+ spindles. Eek.

Are you talking to me? If so, I don't understand your question or statement. Sorry.

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post #4 of 33 Old 03-14-2009, 01:43 AM
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Yes, I was asking you.
Just an observation here not a criticism.
This picture:


It doesn't look like you have a spacer between the nut and the joint. Depending on the amount that the spindle moves up and down, it may cause the nut to contact the outer part of the joint. It doesn't mean that it will but it's just something I noticed when looking through the pictures.

And, for the lazy people...










I'll keep my thoughts about the interesting bleeder screw "mods" to myself.
Still, it's some nice shiny hardware.

Last edited by Moving Target; 03-14-2009 at 01:46 AM.
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post #5 of 33 Old 03-14-2009, 02:56 AM
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Quote:
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Yes, I was asking you.
Just an observation here not a criticism.
This picture:
I, too, am surprised at how tall that spacer stack is. That looks even taller than on my car, which has the '94/95 spindles with the higher steering arm. Looks like the tie rods are lined up nicely with the control arms, though, soooo...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Moving Target View Post
I'll keep my thoughts about the interesting bleeder screw "mods" to myself.
Still, it's some nice shiny hardware.
Until this thread I had never heard that there were issues with Griggs' SLA setup and the caliper positioning. Just seems like a really strange thing to have left that way - one would think Griggs could've come up with some way to reposition the caliper a bit.

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post #6 of 33 Old 03-14-2009, 07:44 AM
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I tell Ken that MM > GRIGGS all the time.
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post #7 of 33 Old 03-14-2009, 10:02 AM Thread Starter
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You don't have to do that with other aftermarket brake calipers from my understanding. Just with the 03-04 Cobra brakes.

They said "People that get the SLA are usually upgrading or have upgraded their brakes".

I said I DID UPGRADE MY BRAKES...lol

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post #8 of 33 Old 03-14-2009, 12:05 PM
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Question what calipers fit?

so then what brake calipers fit with out mods? and isnt it true that brembos have more clearance issues with wheels due to them sticking out more?

with my new enkeis i have about 1.25" of clearance past the mounting surface of the rotor. and thats with a .25" spacer.

any one know how much cobra calipers or any other calipers stick out past the rotor mounting surface?

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post #9 of 33 Old 03-14-2009, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by 2ndsideways View Post
so then what brake calipers fit with out mods? and isnt it true that brembos have more clearance issues with wheels due to them sticking out more?

with my new enkeis i have about 1.25" of clearance past the mounting surface of the rotor. and thats with a .25" spacer.

any one know how much cobra calipers or any other calipers stick out past the rotor mounting surface?
I'd say their 4 on 4 brakes will work without issues, probably the Brembo kit, don't know about the Wilwood (however you spell it?) kit. I believe John said he had the Brembo's on his car and didn't say anything about having to modify them.

Griggs could tell you what works, just give them a call

I don't have a problem with what I did to my bleeders at all. It solved the problem and there's still plenty left to put a wrench on to loosen or tighten the bleeder down.

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post #10 of 33 Old 03-14-2009, 02:31 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moving Target View Post
It doesn't look like you have a spacer between the nut and the joint. Depending on the amount that the spindle moves up and down, it may cause the nut to contact the outer part of the joint. It doesn't mean that it will but it's just something I noticed when looking through the pictures.
I never thought about that. I'll check it out next time I get the car up in the air (tomorrow probably) and see if they contact each other while turning and/or when the suspension is compressin or expanding.

Thanks


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post #11 of 33 Old 04-15-2009, 11:43 AM
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I know it's old, but just because the outer tie-rod is level with the lower CA does NOT mean bumpsteer is set correctly. In fact, it's probably not.

The CA and Tie-rods pivot locations are different. You really need a bumpsteer gauge to measure this correctly -it's impossible to eye-ball.

This seems more spcific to SLA setups:
http://www.longacreracing.com/articles/art.asp?ARTID=13

And for everyone else:
http://www.mustang50magazine.com/how...bumpsteer.html

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post #12 of 33 Old 04-20-2009, 11:32 PM
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are those ur original spindles? and how does the upper brake caliper cage mounting bolt work? do u have to thread it in by hand then then tighten down the nut almost as like a jam nut?

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post #13 of 33 Old 04-21-2009, 02:10 PM Thread Starter
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Yes, original spindles.

Look at the second picture of post #4, you can see the bottom bolt is stock. The top one is something Griggs sends you depending on which brakes you have. In my case 03-04 Cobra brakes. It's a bolt that's threaded on both ends. It's kind of like a jig saw puzzle. You need to put one end of that bolt in the caliper, then put the rotor in the caliper and then slide them on the spindle as one. Then but the bottom bolt in, then put the lock washer and nut on the top one, then tighten both down. Or that's how I did it

You can't put it in on after the caliper is already mounted to the spindle, the part on that bracket where the upper ball joint bolts on is in the way.

It was pretty easy, just took some time to figure it all out.

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post #14 of 33 Old 04-21-2009, 09:00 PM
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thats what i figured. just seems kinda like a pain, especially if ur at the track.

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post #15 of 33 Old 04-22-2009, 12:16 PM Thread Starter
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I don't know why you would want to tear all that down at the track? If you're just wanting to change the pads, you can do that without removing all that. Just pull the pin on the bottom of the caliper and rotate it up and take the pads out.

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post #16 of 33 Old 04-22-2009, 01:01 PM
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Ken.... FTW.
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post #17 of 33 Old 04-22-2009, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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No, you, FTW I'd never have known about that if I hadn't seen the pin on your brakes.

I thought I'd got ripped off and my brake kit was missing some important part...lol

Do I have enough posts to link a picture yet?



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post #18 of 33 Old 04-22-2009, 01:52 PM Thread Starter
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YAY, finally. Now I can start linking people to my items-for-sale scams LOL

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post #19 of 33 Old 04-22-2009, 02:18 PM
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So you bought the little hitch-pin? Cool. Makes it alot easier/quicker, huh?
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post #20 of 33 Old 04-22-2009, 02:45 PM Thread Starter
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No, I didn't buy it yet...lol

But it's on my endless list of car #### to waste money on.

I figure I'll get them and do that when I get new front pads, they aren't going to last much longer. I need to talk to Eric about pads at the next event. I'm sure he'll be up at Bristol reminding me how slow my car really is compared to a "sports car". Damnit.

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post #21 of 33 Old 04-22-2009, 02:46 PM Thread Starter
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Hmmmm, I thought I said #### on here before and got away with it.

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post #22 of 33 Old 04-22-2009, 02:47 PM Thread Starter
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Guess not...lol

You going to Nashville this Sunday?

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post #23 of 33 Old 04-22-2009, 02:49 PM
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Maybe...

I'm more of a, "ehhh, i'm bored. Guess i'll go autocross or something" type of person these days.
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post #24 of 33 Old 04-22-2009, 03:24 PM
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What size tires are you running in the front? And if you don't mind me asking how did you flare your fenders? My 275/45's rub on my 94...i'm running a full maximum setup.

thanks
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post #25 of 33 Old 04-22-2009, 04:34 PM
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It's a 315/35/17 on a Cobra rep. 10.5" wheel. As for the flare....a grinder/cut-off wheel, some sheets of metal, a few bolts and some paint.

I think it looks good from like 5ft away, which would be fine with me. Pretty sure this is just kinda temporary.
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post #26 of 33 Old 04-22-2009, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ken03KBGTvert View Post
I don't know why you would want to tear all that down at the track? If you're just wanting to change the pads, you can do that without removing all that. Just pull the pin on the bottom of the caliper and rotate it up and take the pads out.
in case u glaze up, or crack a rotor. not common, but it does happen.

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post #27 of 33 Old 04-22-2009, 06:32 PM
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i like the 315's up front. i've been tossing the idea around about doing that to my 98. i worked at a body shop for 6 years so im gonna mold the flares into the sheetmetal, and then do something with the front bumper also. should be a fun project.

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post #28 of 33 Old 04-22-2009, 06:41 PM Thread Starter
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^^^What he said pretty much.

ME + paint/bodywork = teh fail

I used too thin of metal for the fender so they are already bent up some from bumping into. And my first bondo attempt didn't go so well. And I'm not sure if I like the little bolts sticking out or not, kind of looks cool but also kind of looks 4X4 mud truck.

I also mounted the flares "forward" a little because Griggs stuff moves the wheels forward. It looks OK sometimes and sometimes it looks weird.

Anyway, I'll redo them with thicker metal, maybe center them, and possibly remove the bolts (have them welded on) but most importantly, I'll make them look better. Cause up close they look like poo-poo.

Quote:
My 275/45's rub on my 94...i'm running a full maximum setup.
Where are they rubbing? Up front on the outside fender lip, up front on the inside fender liner, or both? Did you get the MM Aarms that move the wheels forward an addition 3/4" or whatever?

Are you sure they are 275/45 or 275/40???

I had minor rubbing with 275/40 tires but Griggs stuff moves the wheels forward a good bit also. The 315's would be impossible unless I did what I did with the fenders. IF I had 18" wheels with a custom offset, I could've tucked them in a little more and possibly avoided the need for fender flares. But that would've cost $3-4K for wheels and tires and the fenders only cost me $50 roughly

The good news is if my money tree ever starts producing, I could run 335 tires on 18" wheels all around with the fender flares

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Originally Posted by loudnslow98gt View Post
i like the 315's up front. i've been tossing the idea around about doing that to my 98. i worked at a body shop for 6 years so im gonna mold the flares into the sheetmetal, and then do something with the front bumper also. should be a fun project.
Put simply, it looks BADASS. You should do it if you have the ability to. I didn't think I'd run around daily driving with them, but it looks to good to go back to the "smaller" 275/40 tires. The only negative is they tramline, or whatever it's called, a lot worse, it'll follow a rut in the road like crazy. But I can live with that

I inquired on the Tiger racing fenders. They are light, which is great, but they are a race piece, not meant to look pretty. They look OK from 50' but up close it's not real pretty. While I've never seen them in person, this is what I was told by the person I would've bought them from so I think he was being honest and knew what he was talking about. My car never get's entered in to "car shows", but I still like it too look nice and that wasn't going to work for me.

Quote:
in case u glaze up, or crack a rotor. not common, but it does happen.
Oh, ok. Well in that case I guess you would have to remove the entire caliper. It's just the upper bolt that is different. Instead of removing the bolt, you'd just take off the nut and then slide it through with the caliper. I don't think it'd be too difficult. Besides, with my "grandma driving skills" I doubt I'll ever tear up a rotor

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post #30 of 33 Old 04-22-2009, 06:56 PM
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Besides, with my "grandma driving skills" I doubt I'll ever tear up a rotor
You an' me both!
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post #31 of 33 Old 04-22-2009, 07:34 PM
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[/quote]Where are they rubbing? Up front on the outside fender lip, up front on the inside fender liner, or both? Did you get the MM Aarms that move the wheels forward an addition 3/4" or whatever?

Are you sure they are 275/45 or 275/40???

I had minor rubbing with 275/40 tires but Griggs stuff moves the wheels forward a good bit also. The 315's would be impossible unless I did what I did with the fenders. IF I had 18" wheels with a custom offset, I could've tucked them in a little more and possibly avoided the need for fender flares. But that would've cost $3-4K for wheels and tires and the fenders only cost me $50 roughly

The good news is if my money tree ever starts producing, I could run 335 tires on 18" wheels all around with the fender flares [/QUOTE]

Yes the maximum aarms have moved it forward. I rubs bad on the inner lip on the front bumper only on the left side on sharp turns and tends to rub when i hit bumps. The tires are just too wide for the fenders, but I was told that I would have no rubbing issues. I think though that the Nitto tires are causing a lot of the problems. It seems Nitto's are just fat. Anyways my car just had another alignment done today so maybe some issues were solved. A lot of adjustments were made to my coil-overs and bumpsteer and the rear swaybar was removed.

I've looked at getting the maeir racing fender flares, but don't won't to drop the money for new rims and tires right now. My nitto's are brand new and have about 1200 miles on them.

I was just looking for a possibly more simple way to fix the issue and looks like you have. The maier flares are 300 per set front and rear and won't look right unless your running 335's all the way around. Check out their site and you'll see what i'm talking about.
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post #32 of 33 Old 04-22-2009, 08:10 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah, I've seen them, they look great, but when you factor in needing the front AND rear to not look retarded, and really needing that front thing under the bumper to tie thetwo front sides in, PLUS paint, it was too much money.

I could get the fenders (my little creations) ready myself, take them to a buddy to weld on/bondo/clean up and then repaint it myself with a rattle can for a less than one set of those fenders.

It seems like it's always on the left side. Mine did it worse on that side also. Our cars are crooked and apparently favor the left side.

FWIW, I've always heard/read that Nitto's are narrow compared to some other brands.

If you got the Aarms that move the wheels forward, on top of the Kmember moving them forward, I thought I read on their site that rubbing would happen, some hacking would be required?

If it's just the fender lip underneath, grind it down some. It's easy. I did my rears a long time ago and did the fronts some also. I eventually tried "rolling" the front fenders for more clearance and that was a complete fubar. The paint flaked like crazy even with me heating them. So making the flares actually got rid of that **** up, now I just need to clean them up some.

I've never seen any other Mustangs with anything like I did, but I'm surprised. It's cheap, effective, and I'm a dumbass and pulled it off, so surely anyone can do it.

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Last edited by Ken03KBGTvert; 04-22-2009 at 08:12 PM.
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post #33 of 33 Old 04-22-2009, 08:13 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
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You an' me both!

If I ever tear up a rotor, it'll be my LUCK (or lack of) that causes it, NOT my hardcore driving skills

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