John just put my stock pipe back in the mail to me. I sent him the stock pipe off of my cobra so he could get the specs, angles, size of fittings, etc all figured out. He has found some 3.5" pipe that should work even with the Strut tower brace. It will probably be a few weeks before I have the "prototype" to see if it improves power and if it will fit under the Strut brace. If this size tube doesn't fit under the brace, I think he is just going to use the 4" pipe like what is used for the 99/01 cobras. Hopefully the pipe fits and it is big enough to feed our hungry cobras, but only a little testing will tell. But I think John will have a finalized pipe ready to ship for the 96-98 cobras in about 3-4 weeks. I figure there is snow on the ground right now anyways, so no point in having all these go-fast goodies and no way of testing them out.
I have a "slobra" unfortunately. My corrected dyno numbers were 265rwhp/269rwtq with an Offroad H-pipe and K&N. That isn't too bad, but I was expecting a few more HP and TQ to show up. I am shooting for 300rwhp and even more torque by this summer. I have BBK LT's and o/r h-pipe on the way and I will be adding the Densecharger PowerPipe to my combo as well. I also have U/D pulleys, so hopefully those mods will be enough to bump me up over the 300 mark.
As far as numbers you will need to email John @ Densecharger because he has the exact numbers from customers that have dyno'd before and after with the pipe(s).
Droptop55--- You will probably lose a couple HP/TQ compared to the stock inlet tubing. And if you compare it to the DC setup, then you are losing about 7rwhp/7rwtq. Sorry, but I would rather pay $170 for 5-8rwhp as opposed to $230+ for something that will put me equal to or worse than stock numbers. But to each their own. I just don't think that a metal induction setup and "Cold Air Induction" should go in the same sentence.
Rojizostang--- The ACT sensor may be "upstream" from the hottest part of the inlet track, but if you are using a METAL "Cold Air" kit
then the WHOLE metal tubing will get heated up via conduction from other metal parts it attaches to. The ACT is placed right behind the MAF. Thus, that means that the WHOLE pipe between the MAF/TB will be heated because it is right over the valve cover/exhaust manifold. The whole pipe will get HOT, not just the bottom of the pipe. True, certain spots might be warmer than others, but it would be hard to figure out the HOT spots without some kind of infra-red temp sensor gun.
And I realize that the metal pipes are "separated" by rubber couplings, but you must realize that metal gets hotter than plastic when exposed to the same ambient temps.
I will ask John next time I talk to him why he doesn't offer a "Chrome" painted pipe for those that must have the "chrome" look in their engine compartment. So far, the only reasoning behind anyone buying other systems is because of the "chrome" look of the MAC/BBK pipes. I just don't know if there is a chrome paint that will handle the engine compartment temps or not. I will check with John though and let you know what he says.