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post #1 of 6 Old 01-09-2015, 05:54 PM Thread Starter
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LQ4 donor car

Long story my brother crashed his truck 2500, hes ok but truck is totaled. Good news, I'm going to keep his LQ4 and his 4l80e, so far enine and tranny complete harness and pcm are off, before the truck is scrapped, what else should I take off? My google searches arent really helping
Plans are literally drop into my coupe, maybe replace some gaskets, but everything else stays stock, and have some one fab me up a turbo kit, nothing special,

2nd Q, is a LS6 manifold swap worth it or keep it stock?

Anyone have any good links so I can read some quality info? Thx guys


89 LX 5.0, 5spd, bone stock down to the original owners manual
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post #2 of 6 Old 01-09-2015, 07:32 PM
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Ya go with ls6 intake over truck intake. Might want to get the fuse box as well and check out lt1 swap on how to wire it all up.

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post #3 of 6 Old 01-10-2015, 12:57 AM
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If the truck is drive by wire, you need the TAC module from the truck. You will need a way to flash the PCM. If there are no oil or coolant leaks, I wouldnt turn a single wrench on that engine. (except valvesprings, and you can get some china head studs and replace factory head bolts one at a time without upsetting head gaskets) If you run conservative boost, no need to regap rings or anything. (although regapping rings leaves more room for error on tuneup) No need to change intake unless the truck intake gives hood clearance issues. The stock truck intake is a capable piece, and outperforms the LS6 intake in some apects. Before you go any further, search up "denmah fairmont build" if you havent already. He has fully documented through forums and youtube the entire process including trial, error, installation, turbo, everything. Stick with it.. I have a twin turbo LQ4 in a 2001 Bullitt and its so much faster than my Dart block F1R procharged coupe ever was.

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post #4 of 6 Old 01-11-2015, 03:13 AM Thread Starter
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truck is drive by wire, you need the TAC module from the truck
Exactly the kind of hidden info I was looking for, I kus read it on a link yesterday thx

Oh yea the truck ran no leaks, and I think I'll leave the rings alone, if I'd open that thing up im jus asking to change rods and pistons although I see ARP head studs in the future,

Do u think I'm good with the 4l80e? I never really thought I'd be doing an LS swap so I never really thought to research that much,

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post #5 of 6 Old 01-11-2015, 03:02 PM
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The 80E is an awsome piece, although a good converter will be a lil pricey. ARP head studs are a lil pricey for an LS motor. The cheapo china studs will be fine and only cost about 80 bucks. Replace em one at a time (can do this at any point, in the car and keep factory head gaskets.) Resist the temptation to start replacing stuff on that engine for no reason cause non factory LS parts are not cheap. Ax far as the rings, if your long term HP goals are modest, then just leave them. If you forsee increasing HP levels in the future, then consider gapping the rings now while motor is out. (Change out the truck oil pan and pickup with an F body pan or equivalent because the truck pan sits too low. Believe me on this one, just get the car pan) I was impatient and thought I would be happy on pump gas and low boost, so I didnt gap my rings. Well, the engine ran so good, and I started increasing boost and pushing it. The engine finally gave up the ghost running 25 lbs. non intercooled pump gas and too much timing. Broke 6 pistons. (Scary fast ride BTW) I was very lucky no damage to heads or block.So 8 used ebay pistons, new rings, and new head gaskets set me back about $350 and a bunch of work. Pistons are weak link on SBE Ls motors so just be cautious.

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post #6 of 6 Old 01-12-2015, 11:01 PM Thread Starter
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Yea I read that gapping the rings was a good idea, but I'm with you on changing as little as possible, so when I saw people more power than I'm hoping for on stock untouched rings I'd figure I'd leave my rings alone, thx for your info though, and definitely a F body oil pan is on the list,

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