picked up my 04 lq9 - Ford Mustang Forums : Corral.net Mustang Forum
 
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post #1 of 23 Old 01-19-2010, 11:37 PM Thread Starter
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picked up my 04 lq9

for $500, 98k miles. drive by wire throttle body, and wiring harness included. car is going to be carbed, so i'll be selling all i don't need.

here is why it was so cheap...




doh!

this is why you inspect what you buy. the exhaust manifold was covering up the crack pretty good, but i managed to spot it before i bought it. pulled the two pieces off with a screwdriver wedged in there.

the junkyard wasn't aware of this i think, because all the motors they sell have a warranty. but good thing i saw this before i drove the 3+ hours back home. got the motor for less than half price, when i was planning on ditching those heads anyway. only other problem is 2 coils have the snouts broken off, and they bent the valve cover hold down bolts and possibly the valve cover because they don't know how to properly lift an engine.

this is going in a fox coupe. any out of the ordinary tips/advice you guys have?

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post #2 of 23 Old 01-20-2010, 07:43 AM
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Yeah! Carb'ed is a good choice, now get some L92 heads mill them about .035, get some head gaskets in the mid .040's thickness to maintain quench and a custom valvetrain from a reputable shop. The downside is that most likely you'll have to notch the pistons with those heads but they are worth every damn penny! Also you are going to need the offset intake rocker arms(they are cheap even new ones) and the rail for them because the ones for the stock oem heads will not work. Replace the stock oem rod bolts if you don't trust them, personally I'm going to change mine.

Just ask...I have pretty much the combo that I suggested.


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post #3 of 23 Old 01-20-2010, 10:20 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah! Carb'ed is a good choice, now get some L92 heads mill them about .035, get some head gaskets in the mid .040's thickness to maintain quench and a custom valvetrain from a reputable shop. The downside is that most likely you'll have to notch the pistons with those heads but they are worth every damn penny! Also you are going to need the offset intake rocker arms(they are cheap even new ones) and the rail for them because the ones for the stock oem heads will not work. Replace the stock oem rod bolts if you don't trust them, personally I'm going to change mine.

Just ask...I have pretty much the combo that I suggested.
i was considering the l92 heads, only thing that has me worried is i was told they have a very thin deck, and i'm going to be spraying this motor.

with the heads milled .035 with those gaskets what's your compression ratio? what does your car run?

are you going to get your rotating assembly rebalanced after you swap rod bolts?
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post #4 of 23 Old 01-20-2010, 08:36 PM
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i was considering the l92 heads, only thing that has me worried is i was told they have a very thin deck, and i'm going to be spraying this motor.

with the heads milled .035 with those gaskets what's your compression ratio? what does your car run?

are you going to get your rotating assembly rebalanced after you swap rod bolts?
Well since you are planning to spray it, I would still do the thinner gasket to gain a bit of compression since it'll be close to stock. My engine is not complete but I expect around 10:8.1. The engine will be open in a couple of days if possible. I want the car to run mid to low 10's in the 1/4 and be streetable.

No, I don't plan to rebalance after the bolt swap. Lots of people do this without any effects.

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post #5 of 23 Old 01-22-2010, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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i plan to use the 4.6 motor mounts modified to work... will the 4.6 mounts fit in a regular 302/351 k member??? i'm not sure if it would move the engine forward or backward more than 4.6 k member, but if it moves it, which direction is it, and how much? manual brakes so the brake booster is out of the way...
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post #6 of 23 Old 01-24-2010, 10:22 AM
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No, I don't plan to rebalance after the bolt swap. Lots of people do this without any effects.
are you going to resize the rods after you replace the bolts ? .. i have ARP ROD BOLTS and i get mixed answers if this needs to be done or not .

91 lx Hatch 6.0(STOCK SHORTBLOCK) LSX 412rwhp
ON 275 RADIALS
10.84 @ 127 on motor
10.18 @ 135 150 shot ( still need tuning)
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post #7 of 23 Old 01-24-2010, 10:02 PM
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are you going to resize the rods after you replace the bolts ? .. i have ARP ROD BOLTS and i get mixed answers if this needs to be done or not .
Nope, just change one bolt at a time. This maintains their original mated position, since they are the cracked type.

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post #8 of 23 Old 01-24-2010, 10:05 PM Thread Starter
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has anybody used this oil pan in a fox?

http://www.sdpc2000.com/details/gm-f...parts/19212593

looks to me like it has more clearance over the k member/steering rack than the regular f-body pans.
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post #9 of 23 Old 01-24-2010, 10:10 PM Thread Starter
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Nope, just change one bolt at a time. This maintains their original mated position, since they are the cracked type.
when are the stock rod bolts the weak link? or is this just a precautionary measure/piece of mind thing?
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post #10 of 23 Old 01-25-2010, 07:40 AM
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when are the stock rod bolts the weak link? or is this just a precautionary measure/piece of mind thing?
Precautionary seems the correct word for it, many folks do the change just in case. I've heard and read about countless who have revved those engines over 7k rpms without a hitch, others with no such luck. So personally I decided to do it because my combo was designed with a peak of 7.2k rpms, and that's quite a bit of rpms for a V8 IMO. RPMS and/or detonation seems to be the no. 1 killer of any engine.


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post #11 of 23 Old 01-25-2010, 09:27 AM
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Nope, just change one bolt at a time. This maintains their original mated position, since they are the cracked type.
IS THAT WHAT YOU DID ?

91 lx Hatch 6.0(STOCK SHORTBLOCK) LSX 412rwhp
ON 275 RADIALS
10.84 @ 127 on motor
10.18 @ 135 150 shot ( still need tuning)
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post #12 of 23 Old 01-25-2010, 09:57 PM
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IS THAT WHAT YOU DID ?
Have not done it yet because I don't have the time and my buddy is the other person who could do it but is too busy as well. That is exactly what I'm planning to do.

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post #13 of 23 Old 01-26-2010, 02:08 PM
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Have not done it yet because I don't have the time and my buddy is the other person who could do it but is too busy as well. That is exactly what I'm planning to do.
I called ARP, they said that it is recomended to have the rods resized , but he also said "he is required to tell people that for law suit purpose's", and has had customers use the one bolt at a time replacement with good results .

91 lx Hatch 6.0(STOCK SHORTBLOCK) LSX 412rwhp
ON 275 RADIALS
10.84 @ 127 on motor
10.18 @ 135 150 shot ( still need tuning)
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post #14 of 23 Old 01-27-2010, 01:10 PM
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are you going to resize the rods after you replace the bolts ? .. i have ARP ROD BOLTS and i get mixed answers if this needs to be done or not .
No you dont have to have the rods resized with just a bolt swap.
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post #15 of 23 Old 01-27-2010, 01:11 PM
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Nope, just change one bolt at a time. This maintains their original mated position, since they are the cracked type.
Never heard of this before, back in 2001 i just changed them all out at once, never had a problem. Isnt like you could really screw them up if you pull the caps off.
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post #16 of 23 Old 01-27-2010, 01:16 PM
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If this is going to be a street car, and carbed i would stay away from 260cc intake port runner and a single plane intake with only 364 cubes. Now if it was fuel injected it might be alittle better. It will have no bottom end throttle responce.
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post #17 of 23 Old 01-27-2010, 06:12 PM
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If this is going to be a street car, and carbed i would stay away from 260cc intake port runner and a single plane intake with only 364 cubes. Now if it was fuel injected it might be alittle better. It will have no bottom end throttle responce.
How do you know that? Camming has a lot to do with that along with the rest of the combo. That's a myth that has been busted over and over again.

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post #18 of 23 Old 01-27-2010, 08:03 PM
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How do you know that? Camming has a lot to do with that along with the rest of the combo. That's a myth that has been busted over and over again.
How do i know that................well its simple been there done that! He's a little example, back in 2001 i ran a stock shortblock with basicly mild stock heads that i reworked, intake runner was right around 210cc. Combo was stock shortblock, mild port heads, 212/218 cam, vig4500 stall basic bolt ons. THEN switched to 237CC intake port heads, way better flow, over 50cfm on the intake sometimes 65cfm. Bottom end was alot less.......and that was with fuel injection. Would have been a TURD with a carb. It doesnt just apply to LS1 seen it first hand on 351 cleveland in a stang setup back in mid 90s.
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post #19 of 23 Old 01-27-2010, 10:02 PM Thread Starter
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If this is going to be a street car, and carbed i would stay away from 260cc intake port runner and a single plane intake with only 364 cubes. Now if it was fuel injected it might be alittle better. It will have no bottom end throttle responce.
i'm not worried about bottom end. this will be a car that i drive to car meets, and spray at the track... not a daily by any means...
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post #20 of 23 Old 01-27-2010, 11:09 PM
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Cool let us know how that works out for ya.
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post #21 of 23 Old 01-28-2010, 07:40 PM
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How do i know that................well its simple been there done that! He's a little example, back in 2001 i ran a stock shortblock with basicly mild stock heads that i reworked, intake runner was right around 210cc. Combo was stock shortblock, mild port heads, 212/218 cam, vig4500 stall basic bolt ons. THEN switched to 237CC intake port heads, way better flow, over 50cfm on the intake sometimes 65cfm. Bottom end was alot less.......and that was with fuel injection. Would have been a TURD with a carb. It doesnt just apply to LS1 seen it first hand on 351 cleveland in a stang setup back in mid 90s.
You just proof my point. First of we're talking about an engine that is a little bigger than a LS1, which has a smaller than 4" bore. Second, you did not mention if you switch to a different cam and other peripherals to take advantage of the bigger flow. If you didn't there was your problem, and I always suggest a custom cam for custom combos like the one he's planning. Fuel injected alone won't cure driveability problems like people think. The whole combo it is what makes it run good or bad. The cleveland heads are a pure example of why just because it's a big flowing head it will make miracles by itself.

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post #22 of 23 Old 01-29-2010, 02:08 PM
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Notch, im not going to muck up this thread, I've been working with LS1's for 11 years now have have a pretty good idea of how to make cars streetable and fast. If you want to continue, please feel free to PM, other wise i'm done.
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post #23 of 23 Old 02-23-2010, 09:31 PM Thread Starter
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well i did the math and the l92 heads would end up costing me about $364(haha) more than the prc stage 2.5 5.3 heads, and they flow better on the exhaust which i think will be more beneficial with nitrous, and help increase PTV clearance since the exhaust valve won't have to be open as long... so i got a set of those and some cometic .040 gaskets... so compression ratio is right around 11:1 i believe...

also ordered arp rod bolts, got my victor jr. intake, f body oil pan, pickup, etc... flexplate and msd 6010. still need cam (thinking of going with ed curtis), pushrods, and lifters. what lifters would everyone recommend for a 7k+ motor??? i was told ls7 lifters would be good...

i'm still debating between a th350/400 and a powerglide... car will be sprayed... i think i'm leaning toward a powerglide because it will make it a little easier to hook on the street and eat a little less hp...
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